non skid deck question

[D Gobby]

It's time to ask the forum about what could be causing paint discoloration in my recently applied non skid deck.

I painted the side decks on the 15' day sailor i'm trying to finnish with Kirbys paint. Then I applied more Kirbys paint unthinned to the masked off area where I wanted to have the nonskid.

I painted about 18" of the deck at a time and then sprinkled coarse sea salt over the wet paint. Then painted the next 18" followed by sea salt etc.

The paint with the salt applied was allowed to dry for three days.

Tonight I brushed all the loose salt off and then rinsed the remaning salt off with water and a soft brush.

The process left a very nice non skid surface but left the paint slightly off color in area's.

Does anyone know what has caused this?

Is there some salt still remaning in certain areas that will disappear over time?

The deck color is Kirbys Sand a very light brown. The surface appears to be dirty in the off color spots. Some of the area's did clean up when scrubed lightly with the brush and water.

Will this clean up or have I done something wrong with the application.

The decks are small so its no big deal to sand it all off and try it again.

Sorry for the long rambling post.

Darrel

[ 07-08-2004, 01:04 AM: Message edited by: D Gobby ]

[cs]

Darrel, would a light coat of paint over the non-skid areas work? Or would it slick out the non-skid?

I would be willing to try putting a thin coat of paint over this area to try and get a uniform color.

Chad

[WindHawk]

My trailer & boat came with some adhesive non-skid stickers (decals?) that work well, and probably looked OK when new. They were, the first thing I ripped off of the boat when I began refinishing it, but now I'm approaching the point of considering them again, and can't make up my mind. The paint & varnish underneath them was in bad shape, but then, the boat hadn't been well cared-for anyway.

Does anyone have experience with them? I'll probably opt for the occasional swim rather than mar the finish, (or maybe a teak deck!).

[Wild Wassa]

The things that I notice when applying an embossed anti skid texture to an oil based material is all the normal rules change, the slowly curing paint behaves differently, than if it was just a normally applied coat.

Three days curing isn't long enough I find. I allow exactly 4 weeks before removing texturing/embossing aids. With fast skinning water based materials (sea salt is not suitable as it is hygro or hydroscopic) as a comparison, I allow 7 to 10 days before removing the embossing material (sugar) and the w/b's are the faster curers.

The still soft paint can be stressed when removing the texturing materials, either sugar or salt. This will give a colour change. Oil based materials take a while to harden.

Using oil based materials solvents are involved, this gives porosity, porosity allows the uptake of water, this will give a colour change. Allow the water (the hose off) to dry, remove every grain of salt. I view this as a minimum of two days to allow the hose down to dry or kick it along with a warm hair dryer.

Then once the water has dried and the paint allowed to cure, and tighten, do you still have the same colour problem?

One way of overcoming the colour change if it has happened is to stipple paint over your antiskid, or do it with a roller and roll it roughly. Don't use a quality roller, use a foam roller, you don't want to flatten the anti-skid.

I always put on a top coat, this unifies the gloss. Could the colour change just be a illusion from the different gloss levels? The colour can change with different batches of paint as well. Some of the batch changes can be very noticable, but not noticable when the paint is still wet.

I also use the standard, the painter's fingernail test. When I've applied my anti skid, I also do a test on scrap of a small identical anti skid. This I will push my fingernail into every day just to test the hardness of the paint. The curing of paint is temperature dependent. The finger nail test will tell you when the paint is hard enough to proceed.

There is another possible cause of discolouration (which I found when testing CPES) that is CPES (so I presume similar materials as well) drags oil residues out of the timber. If CPES has been used over a previously applied oil, say an old coat of thinned linseed (with solvent). Old painter's oils, the binders, darken with age, and somehow when when you think you have cleaned up all the residues, old oil manages to float to the top.

Warren.

[ 07-08-2004, 09:44 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

[Stiletto]

Wassa, have you ever seen a product called Tred Grip in OZ? I have used it on my boat , it was originally made there. Acrylic based , wide range of colours, also marketed for domestic use.

[Wild Wassa]

Stilleto, I use Dominion Plastics pulverized cross-linked rubberized paint, Tredgrip, on the Sea Scout's boats. If the wood is saveable (which is rare), I'll use an embossed varnish or an embossed poly as the non-slip. The kids can fall on Tredgrip, and they don't get hurt or lose bark, that's why rubberized paint is very good. It's good to kneel on. Soft to touch and as tough as.

Over here it's only $27 a litre. It is a great product as you know, and about the easiest non-slip material to apply to a boat that is available on the market, I think. With a good physical key (#220 max.) it sticks to w/b poly very well. It rolls uniformly ... nothing else will, I can't get the hang of adding anti-skid grit to paint, I find it takes far too much work for just an average result.

As the colour range is somewhat limited with Tredgrip (apart from the earthen colours), with no off white in the selection, I get the white base tinted, using acrylic tints. Over here it's used on hot yachts, that's how I heard about Tredgrip.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid127/p72df8e665fea18313af96985443c2114/f7eda7dc.jpg

The scale is cm's.

Warren.

[ 07-09-2004, 04:52 AM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]