Flats boat Launch, completion

[RodB]

Well, finally my Texas flats boat was totally completed... and we went flyfishing for Tarpon in May... just north of Key West for a couple weeks...long drive to Florida but worth it. Although this boat was conceptualized for the real shallow flats of the Texas coast, she worked pretty good for the Keys...just didn't pole as easy with some wind...as the lower freeboard flats skiffs that are poled all over chasing intercept lines for Tarpon like the Maverick HPX, etc. She works great on the Texas coast though and can be poled in spit...She runs very shallow with the jet but did clog up now and then when we had some floating grass increase in the area for a couple days. She can be changed back to a prop in about an hour if you don't need shallow water capability. Hull weight is about 7-800 lbs so she stays down well in the swell or chop... with no cavitation from the jet pump. Only my 1/2" stainless rubrail was not completed...but will be soon.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p6331f7e40160bb2abea6f9d3782d8513/ee7c3932.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p5d5c167f7460532a6497829ac819d803/ee7a805f.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/pa760c23b7a76abe653eb04c32341da4e/ee7a7fd6.jpg



Note how little the jet pump intake adds to the draft. A 24"long triangular flat is fabricated from the transom (about 15" wide... going forward to zero at the 24 inch distance in front of the transom), which allows for great water flow to the intake rising from the deepest part of the center of the hull (6 degree deadrise to allow for clean water flow to the jet).
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/pd660d2bd801ca8d73074f4f2a0fb63e8/ee7c3989.jpg


Watching for schools of Tarpon about 300 yards off shore...about 6 feet of water. Note push pole brackets are the type that lay down flush when not in use...another flyfishing advantage.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/pe67b38e0cf0de90fea1b9009acf14e75/ee7c39cc.jpg


Anchored for lunch... Anchor locker drains out the front of the hull. Note the four holes for "bolt on" trolling motor bracket.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p204d9f469d01b38ae3b6f9f378b5d43a/ee7c399f.jpg


Leaning post with swing down foot rest, note Blue Sea's "Weather Deck" switches with waterproof faces.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p88a5f66360c3d1f038c66e39fe8584c9/ee7c3a65.jpg


Believe it or not, I got the windshield made in Arkansas for $90 including shipping. I just sent a cardboard pattern to them.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p15f82dd1614b895c5d21e6d39b589954/ee7c3c46.jpg

More to come later on....

Rod

[Donn]

Beautiful! Catch anything?

[Thorne]

Very nice! What did you use for anti-skid?

[RodB]

We saw scores of Tarpon, migrating, and ended up landing one 120 plus pounder in 1 hour 8 minutes. We had several take the fly but failed to keep them on. Flyfishing for Tarpon is similar to bowhunting for mature Whitetail bucks... a real challange.

The non-skid is ground walnut shells sprinkled in a thick layer of Kirby's alkyd enamel. paint. The non skid was then locked down with at least two coats of thinned Kirby's alkyd enamel. Looks good and is easy to fix up....

Rod

[John Bell]

Mighty fine! That's my kind of boat.
It looks like you did a marvelous job of building and finishing. Remind us of the design?

[RodB]

I conceptualized her for the needs on the Texas coastal flats (flyfishing for Reds and Specks) and had Tracy Obrien design her for me stitch and glue...(hull set up for good jet performance and also prop) then I got the console and helm concept from an existing flats boat I saw locally and copied it.

When you stand you can see over the grabrail and see right in front of the boat, and when you lean back on the leaning post you can see fine through the windshield. The leaning post also has a movable foot rest if you want to sit way back against the back rest and tilt the (tilt seering wheel) wheel down. The binnacle "T" handle engine control is exactly the height of the steering wheel which offers great control at the helm.

I designed the console to maximize use of space for fuel tank and batteries. The tank is a 40 gallon Inca polyethylene... and the batteries are stacked, one crank and one for a trolling motor when needed.

RB

[Kim Whitmyre]

Wow, a twofer: excellent boat and excellent trip in the boat! Nicely done.

[Wild Dingo]

Good on yer Rod!! :cool:

Ive often wondered after getting Daves Flats boat plans if it wouldnt be cool to have part of the deck as a glass bottom type thing? ;)

Anyway mate well done! she looks great. :cool:

[RodB]

A few more photos....

Tied up at the place we stayed at...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p0477b61a6fa7fc0150732d3220c02f0f/ee7c3a47.jpg


Console interior...lower battery was quick fix, but will be removed and replaced with an installation like the top battery...West Marine's nice solid tray with stainless bolts and a top frame to bolt down.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p08831023fcb97ac772aaee5595e78840/ee7a80a4.jpg


Tied up to the dock where we stayed on Cud Joe Key
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p14325dd2e0ff8326360e10c8e9d16498/ee7a8082.jpg

Watching for Tarpon while anchored... (I was taking a break). Usually anchoring is not the best method as you need to be able to pole quickly to get a cast but sometimes you take a more relaxed tack when you've been out there several hours.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p3a3ef584b961a799e884c7d9a5e6cfff/ee7a7f95.jpg

One of the many thunderstorms that passed us by...we had a decent bridge we could run to and hide under within a couple miles.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p52b694f59ef1f18a7b1bcab48dcf01a3/ee7a7f79.jpg

When you get tired of holding the rod and waiting for the Tarpon, just set it down take a seat and conserve energy...let the guy on the poling platform watch for Tarpon...besides he's younger than me.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p6073a0f38098789f8c1eee2485de3262/ee7a7f1e.jpg

My Custom platform for a flush mount compass...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/pefeedd5024ef6300cc5706f5cf884732/ee7c3a74.jpg

Note two drink holders that fit one liter bottles...made from 4" PVC parts. Gas fill allows a calibrated dip stick to check gas as simple method to insure ease of monitoring fuel level...also have gas guage but they always break sooner or later. Note removable seat and forward bulkhead of console to allow for fuel tank removal if ever needed. These are secured with buried stainless "T" nuts on cleats... for strength and ease of removing.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p41f0c4b7f797a9df61b37ac00d0a813e/ee7c3a96.jpg


Review image for those who are new to my project...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/p74ea9830a599b8d2a048701b11a3b182/fb9c2f77.jpg

Some other threads with photos of my project:

http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=42138
http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=13658
http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=10575
http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=1958&highlight=Skiff

RB

[RodB]

These images will offer more details to add a bit more complete picture of the finished boat...and of course to the finished photos above.


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid176/p33835f9e45f823b46eab80bd013f5cfc/f35a56cc.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid148/p24f20acf56174abcece1b5a8da6a3453/f60fc8f2.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid148/p449df51c82d562e68fde4021cf5c4d4e/f610250c.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid176/p20e47200cced13e4fedbb0c6f842d443/f35a56ca.jpg

RB

[John Bell]

Were all the SS bits: the leaning post, the casting platform, and the windshield frame, were they stock items or did you fabricate them? They are extremely well turned out and give the boat a very refined look.

[RodB]

Thanks...The three custom aluminum items: poling platform, leaning post, and windshield grabrail were all fabricated for me by Milennium Marine ( millennium_marine@msn.com) in Seabrook, TX... according to my exact specifications. I chose them for quality of work and reasonable cost. I was lucky to see several aluminum fabricators at the Houston Boat show and found this quality small company. I knew right off that the owner knew his stuff and offered several solutions to any need I had.

The stainless hardware like the flush pop up cleat at the bow and the flush push pole brackets are common for salt water flats boats... I chose Accon Marine ( www.acconmarine.com) for mine as they make some of the best and innovative stainless marine hardware...like flush pop up cleats, flush pop up running lights, and flush hinges.

A few photos of the Tarpon we caught but due to size of the fish etc no photos of him by the boat side. We estimate 100 lbs easy...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/pf59c483631647dc608ec3943d1b242ec/ee77cd03.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p0bc82cf19c7c8525f90bb6173a64c534/ee77cd20.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p4ff1466b29215dd2e2d75037a5596f72/ee77cd39.jpg

[Canoeyawl]

Very nice Rod, a great success story… What’s next?
LOL

[RodB]

Either Alerion, Wenda, or Pleasure....

Thanks,

RB

[RodB]

See related thread below on what happened while fishing in Fla...

www.woodenboat-ubb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=51697

RB

[Thomas Williamson]

Great looking boat!
You mentioned that you had Tracy O'Brien draw up these plans for you. Are these plans available from either of you? I did not see them on the Tracy O'Brien website

[RodB]

Yes, Tracy Obrien has the plans for both an 18 foot and 16 foot version. I built the 18 footer. I commissioned Tracy to design this hull (I wanted to be able to build either size if I desired) for shallow draft but decent performance. I conceptualized the hull around Texas flats boats and the basic parameters for a hull to run well with a jet pump. Note: an hull optimized for a jet pump also runs fine with a prop. My bracket (mechanical jackplate) from the Jet pump Mfg allows ease of switching from jet to prop in a short time.

I also optimized my hull for running a jet pump by adding a triangular flat that rises from the center of the keel to the transom about 3" (15" wide at transon) so the water column rises up and allows the jet pump intake to be placed higher for running shallower. The sponsons could be left off if you didn't want them, they keep the hull more or less level even when you power up and take off, which is handy in real shallow water...and also are great to step off into the water when you wade fish. I also made my sheer decks 12" but they could be less wide, I just wanted plenty of sheer deck to walk on. I wanted a really versatile craft that with just an hour or so could be a good running prop powered boat, or go real shallow with the motor changed to a jet pump lower unit.

The plans pretty much cover the hull but the interior of the boat is pretty much up to you and so is the console... and offers lots of variation depending on your needs. I can answer many of your questions or call Tracy 360-748-4089 (tracyobrien.com) email tracy@tracyobrien.com

RB

[Thomas Williamson]

Thanks Rod,

I just sent an email off to Tracy.

I really do like that boat. I do a lot of shallow water fishing here around Cape Romain in SC. We mainly chase redfish but I currently fish out of my Simmons Sea Skiff or an Action Craft flats boat. The Simmons is a little tender for poling. The Action Craft works great but is plastic...... I have been feeling the need for a new boat building project and this seems like just the thing.

Thomas

[RodB]

I really like my boat and it is great for fishing the massive flats on the Texas coast....but because of the large console and a little too much freeboard she is not easy to pole when the wind picks up over say 13-15 mph. The console provides a really comfortable helm station with great control and visibility but you do increase windage which affects poling capability. If you want a solid platform, a dry boat, and drift flats in addition to poling around, then she is fine. We really enjoy how shallow she poles with the hull bottom kissing thee bay bottom slightly. I have designed several features to make for easy flyfishing, rod storage, flush deck hardware to keep fly line clear, great helm comfort and control, etc...The front and side decks offer a nice area to fish from and the anchor locker is sweet. She is very stable and of course with the jet pump, she runs oh so shallow.

However, if you plan to pole around and sight cast to fish exclusively then you would want to build her about 8 inches lower freeboard and build a small console to lessen wind drag (see setup on Maverick HPX below). The boat would still run in very shallow water but also be a better poling boat with one guy poling and the other fishing from the front deck. You also need to add a couple runners on the bottom to insure good tracking and turning as the bottom is so smooth and slick. The compromise would be giving up the sweet helm station...

In Florida I felt that my skiff was very seaworthy, very solid and up to any conditions and while running at top speed in 3 foot swell the jet never cavitated... but if running to the Marquesas she would only run about 30mph with the jet...while with a prop I could run faster (although with more draft). The versatility of being able to run a prop or a jet pump is very nice. It is also very nice to be able to just run anywhere you want because your boat runs with such shallow draft and not to have to follow the channels etc.

The following photos of the Maverick HPX show a $35K plus rig that poles in any wind and is the perfect guide boat...but the cost is high... I think my boat is just as strong. I built my boat for around $15K including a new Yamaha 90 two stroke (weight 267lbs) and galvanized trailer. The Maverick HPX weighing in at a hull weight of just under 500 lbs is probably the best flats boat made today and comes with or without a tunnnel. . . The Maverick is not as stable as my hull, runs over 40mph, poles like a dream, and has really nice features like neat storage compartments, hydraulic trim tabs, etc...

You could have Tracy take the basic plans from my hull as a starting point and lower the freeboard and you would have a better poling boat on windier days, just less storage and a bit wetter under certain circumstances. Tracy and I have discussed all this at length throughout the process...just tell him what you want to do and he can suggest a good solution. Note: lowering the freeboard would lessen the materials cost and the hull would perform close to the same, although lighter and probably an inch less draft! FYI, the dimensions on the 18 foot are LOA 18'(not counting the sponsons on the back which increase length to 19'6"), bottom width 66", Beam 82", the 16 footer LOA 16', bottom width 63"...also my bottom was sheathed with Xynole cloth which makes for a tougher bottom than fiberglass.

My friend and fishing buddy is planning on building a simlar boat to the Maverick's parameters.

THE MAVERICK HPX
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p674d82cf64944034c39887ebb203d76b/ee70393c.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p2af952514de3ec504c580ca0a3b83642/ee70398d.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p9088a3cc2a337c84196371ed414ce1eb/ee7038ec.jpg

RB

[Thomas Williamson]

Thanks again Rod. I will get the plans as they are and think about whether or not to cut down on the freeboard a little. I really like the way your boat is proportioned. My Action Craft is very similar to the Maverick although about 10K less spendy. When the wind picks up over about 10-12 mph, I usually put the pole up anyway and resort to the trolling motor. However, I am convinced that it does spook a lot of fish. I really have the hankering for another boat building project and I think that I would really like the 16ft version. It seems that it would work especially well for when I am fishing alone.

[RodB]

As far as proportions go...don't forget, my 18 footer has enough length for a nice console and seat still having nice large decks fore and aft...but with the 16 footer you would probably be better off sitting on the rear deck as with the Maverick...unless you made the front deck smaller. . . things to consider. Of course the leaning post on the 16 footer could be moved back a foot.

I too am convinced the trolling motor runs the fish off and have seen it in really shallow canals on our coast...as I motored along with a trolling motor on slow I saw and heard fish scattering in all directions as i moved along a 20 yard wide canal. Theres nothing like a good push pole to move quietly up to the fish.

Also, if Tracy designed a very similar hull with lower freeboard, I am sure it would be better than taking existing plans and just cutting them down. you would get exact panel dimensions to go together perfectly with knee dimensions, etc to make for a perfect hull at the prescribed length, beam, and proper hull shape and appropriate support structures for the deck you desire. His design costs are very reasonable and stitch and glue hulls go together so easily with lots of room for customization for the interior. We too fish for Reds alot, so I know where your comming from. One of the best places we fish is called Mule Slough and is about 6-700 yards by 400 yards approximately...with average depth of about 8-9 inches...NOW I finally have a boat that can run fast or slow in that area and pole around during low tide...

Good luck,

RB

[Thomas Williamson]

Rod, I definitely would get Tracy to do any design modifications. I would probably go for the small console and omit the leaning post. You mentioned that your buddy was going to build a boat similar to the Maverick paramaters. Is he thinking about the 16 or 18ft version?

So, drifting off topic a bit. What flies do you like for the redfish? We generally use somethinbg like a copperhead or a spoon fly...maybe a black Clouser.

[RodB]

The Maverick is 16'9" so he will stay close to that. He is a hard core Tarpon flyfisherman and is obcessed with having the perfect rig to stalk them...just doesn't think any boat is worth over $30K...and besides he's helped and watched me this last three years and realizes he can build a quality boat himself with modern epoxy methods...and I'll be helping.

I thought I'd post a beginning photo FYI...by the way, I have total photo documentation of my construction if you want to see any particular stage.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid70/pf697e498a952809c3cee33b6cc3b0dbf/fba287a9.jpg
You can see a design for a lower freeboard would be quite different perhaps in knee angle and size/shape... etc.


On flies for Redfish, we use several shrimp patterns and a few crab patterns. My fishing buddy is a pro at tying flies and has a few patterns being sold by Umqua (spelling). He has a great shrimp pattern...but we have several that all seem to work well. I don't think the Reds are too fussy.

RB

[Thomas Williamson]

Rod,

Is your friend's boat going to be a V-type hull like the Maverick or a lower freeeboard version of your boat?

Thomas

[RodB]

Hes going to go "V" hull like the Maverick because he is really interested in the poling capabilities of that type of hull even if it is tippier when standing on the platform...and has more draft. He already has an aluminum version of my boat for shallow shallow use.

RB

[Thomas Williamson]

Thanks once again Rod. I already have a boat like that (V-vihull) so I am interested in something slightly different. SOmething more like yours.

Do you have any trouble with excessive noise from Hull slap with your boat?

Thomas

[Thomas Williamson]

By the way. I just ordered the plans from Tracy. I am sure that I will have questions when they arrive.

Thomas

[RodB]

I noticed some slight hull slap wnen poling directly into the wind, but it was intermittent and not bad at all.

I'll be interested in your comments once you have reviewed the plans.

RB

[pipefitter]

Very good job on a more modern composite fishing machine. I have been wondering what happened to the project. I had a suspicion you were out using it somewhere. I would take that boat over the Hewes,action craft or the maverick any day. I work with those boats nearly every day and they are all pretty much the same. I won't mention the eagle flats bullet that delammed over a sandbar here awhile back leaving roughly an 18" x30" hole in the bottom and no,his flotation didn't help as much as the sandbar did.Or the hewes that one of our towers ripped nice chunks out of the deck the size of Frankenstein's boots.

Anything over 10-15 mph winds is going to be hard to see Tarpon to pole to anyway. Your boat layout is great as is the console and all the other parts. I am waiting for my seats and stuff to come back from the powder coat place as I write this. Again,great job and if you ever head south again in the hot months,stop by Tampa bay and I will put you on some of the monster Tarpon and Snook up this way or some cobia.

[whb]

Great boat and excellent execution,

I have been considering similar for the shallow river I boat on.

A couple of questions, how do you find it poles against a current?

Also, does the design incorporate a tunnel.

Thanks,

Howard

[RodB]

Remember, the parameters of this hull were basically to float and run shallow and to provide a nice large platform to flyfish from...which makes for a fairly wide bottom (66" chine to chine) to get lots of surface area to float shallow. I also had to add two 4 foot long runners (one on each side) about 15 inches in from the chine on the back end of the hull (they end about 12 inches in front of the transom) to afford a decent degree of tracking and some "bite" for turning. Initially, a 6 degree deadrise hull that is so smooth that it does not track very well and slides quite a bit when turning. The bottom is just so smooth with little structural shape to allow for tracking to any degree at all. I added (per Tracy's suggestion) two one inch wide and 1 1/8" tall runners which provided bite for turning and a decent degree of tracking. Naturally the forward end of the runners were tapered extending about 8" to make for a smooth entry.

Note, this hull does not track straight like an aluminum hull with several external channel type structures but she is a compromise offering very shallow draft and halfway decent tracking.

I added a anti splash wedge along the chine on the hull and also the runners described above...later on.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid70/pa6b4646b15dcf87bef81b2bb74b4a173/fba28789.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid70/p82c8832afeab5f4a5de8d2f7b45c252a/fba287a4.jpg

Poling against a current was not much of a consideration for my boat...and I would think you would want Tracy to "narrow down" the design for a strictly "river" craft. Tracy will have some good input on a solution for your use. Since the best poling craft for the coastal flats are 16-17 foot "V" hulls with reasonable weight, then you would have to take that into consideration. The front deck could still be larger than a traditional "V" hull (See Dolphin flats boats) by extending the front deck via a "lip" around the front of the hull.

ON your question about a tunnel...well I could have and did consider fabricating a short tunnel, say 24" from front to back with a max depth of 3" to allow the jet intake to be adjusted actually above the bottom of the hull keel... but the jet expert here in Texas suggested achieving the same thing by creating a triangular flat at the back end of the boat starting 24" in front of the transom and extending to the transom. This "flat" started at the "V" of the keel (24" from the transom) and rose upwards about 3" at the transom and was about 15" wide at the transom...which achieves the same thing as the tunnel described above but really allows more and cleaner water flow to the jet intake. It also provides a better overall hull shape to use with a prop because a short tunnel would cause some turbulence for sure with the prop.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid209/p95f6971b2c6837d80af9bacc94f242c4/ee4298ee.jpg

The "triangular flat" was easier to construct because I just built the hull and then cut out the triangle, fabricated a piece to fit the cutout, and bonded it in with some reinforcing from inside the hull.

I am sure Tracy would have some very good suggestions as to the parameters of a boat to meet your specific needs and his design costs are quite reasonable especially since you would be dealing with flat panel design.

Oh yea, another photo...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p5b562778e16f226f6c1ab01491f4fe39/ee670369.jpg

RB

[whb]

Thanks

Again a beautiful boat

Howard

[pipefitter]

A true square edged tunnel is a bear to pole other than in a straight line . We have a tunnel hull that belongs to our company and you aren't to pole it very far in any wind. The slight cavity like you mention would be much easier.Also,with the hull extending past the transom on either side,if the boat was not as flat as yours is,would also be hard to pole in anything more than a straight line.The inner flat sides of those areas try to go straight on their edges with a keel effect.You nearly have to push the pole at 90º to the hull to swing the stern around.Sliding is a good thing on a pole skiff.

[Thomas Williamson]

Rod,

Check your email :)

[RodB]

I have and will be sending you a CD.... Don't hesitate to ask any questions....

Rod

[RodB]

Jet from below...


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid209/pec29062b9beee1a91d6f24685049cbc0/ee42989b.jpg

[Thomas Williamson]

Thanks Rod,

What was the total # of ply sheets that went into the boat not counting the extra 1/4" on the bottom or the console?

Thomas

[RodB]

About 25, half 3/8" (9mm), and half 1/2" (12mm). Naturally I have some scrap and I built a large console which took about 3 1/2 sheets itself. My total order was 30 sheets with 4 of them 1/4" Merranti for the additional layer on the bottom. If I built the 16 footer I would probably just go with one layer of 1/2" for the bottom, so you would use somewhere around 22 sheets.

I got a great deal from World Panel in Miami.... Malvaux Okoume from France, which was Lloyds certified for $100 more on the total order than Edensaw's Greek Okoume (which was not Lloyds certified.

This was before 9-11 ...I wouldn't buy French now.

RB

[RodB]

Well, I finally got around to drawing this up for reference etc.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid209/p6ef33b53d7c03d0c652aee099aeb8b90/ee3a8229.jpg
Allows for switching to either battery for starting motor... but trolling motor is connected directly to the deep cycle battery (yes should have a circut breaker in that positive lead..and will add that ASAP.

RB

[RodB]

I wanted to add this photo to put some scale on our fishing trip in May. We plan to fish Andros on the far right in the next year or two.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid210/p78a8bc6219f390ce311bde8b4abf16fd/edcc8bb7.jpg

RB

[RodB]

Good view of non-skid pattern...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid210/p9453a4eded71e174906f8d3aa3133118/edb66c8d.jpg

Last weekend in Port Oconnor on the Texas Coast... about 50 miles south of Victoria. Those grass islands harbor lots of Redfish on high tides. My fishing buddy poling around for a good shot. That pole is only 21 feet long but my wide angle lens makes it look longer...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid210/pf7afe581356d6a989b9555e61f3fd28b/edb66cf7.jpg


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid210/pca25a37540ece3426d3e26c92e768be5/edb66e68.jpg

Properly staked out flats boat...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid210/p1b8de42c302ea6e691903e168946edb6/edb66e99.jpg

RB

[pipefitter]

Very nice. Catching reds is a blast. That's true flats boat fashion for sure.

[RodB]

Hey Paul, do you even use a push pole when fishing in shallows???

RB