View Full Version : Topsides paint ???
reeljob
06-22-2006, 10:03 PM
I will eventually need to be painting a 20' SSS, with epoxyed and/or glassed plywood. What would be a good paint to use? A two part polyurethane would give the highest gloss and durability, but what about a high quality one part paint? Looking at a catalog, stuff like Perfection and Awlgrip costs 55 or 60 a quart. COmpared to a much more economical one part like Brightsides or something, is it better to go for the expensive stuff? Which would be easier to apply (i guess surface prep would essentially be the same)? Which is better for a dark (navy) color?
Also, for a boat that lives on a trailer, possibly indoors or at least covered outdoors, what would be an expected lifetime of a good varnih like EPifanes or Schooner? I was reading an article and it mentions recoating every season? What about something more durable like Bristol finish?
Thanks
Peter Malcolm Jardine
06-22-2006, 10:18 PM
Reel, you should search the archive of building/repair for threads on varnish and paint. They will provide a lot of information and some debate too.
Two part paints have much greater durability, but for a trailered boat, a lot of one parts would be excellent too. I use Epifanes varnish, and find it much better than schooner. I used schooner for a long time, but I will never go back. Good luck with your project
JimConlin
06-22-2006, 11:55 PM
When assessing whether to use LPU or conventional paint I'll use the LPU paint only if a fine finish is important and if the paint won't be subject to such abuse as the scrum at a dinghy dock.
santone
06-23-2006, 07:18 AM
I used the new marine line of Rustoleum enamel paint this year for the deck and interior on my fiberglass WoodPussy. I liked the way it flowed on compared to the Brightside paint by Interlux. Also, the price is great at about $13.00 Qt. and $17.00 for the undercoat. I found this paint at Leow's.
mcdenny
06-23-2006, 08:31 AM
I get about three years from black Britesides one epoxified meranti plywood before it starts to look dull. Easy to apply with roll & tip method. Boat is in Michigan under a roof in summer and outdoors under shrinkwrap in winter.
reeljob
06-23-2006, 12:30 PM
Thanks for the feedback. I'm seriously thinking about one part finishes because of the cost and complexities of two part paints. Is it true that Awlgrip must be applied by a professional? I think I probably will go for Epifanes varnish- i;ve heard many good things about it.
Lew Barrett
06-23-2006, 01:28 PM
All good choices you are making....
Lew
Thanks for the feedback. I'm seriously thinking about one part finishes because of the cost and complexities of two part paints. Is it true that Awlgrip must be applied by a professional? I think I probably will go for Epifanes varnish- i;ve heard many good things about it.
pipefitter
06-24-2006, 01:22 AM
If it gets any more glossy than brightsides,I sure don't need to know about it.This stuff is quite glossy. Almost too much for a wood boat and it looks sprayed on. Renew time is when you will love the one part finishes. It's a fast to get the feel of product,the color depth is amazing for a one part paint.By about the 3rd coat,you will be putting it on like you were born doing it.I like straight alkyd paints as well but they don't share the gloss or depth of color that the modified one parts have. With a glued lap boat like the Simmons,the painting is so much more easy, being you only have about 6" of plank width to control at a time. Painting these boats is a pleasure.
michaelpetrozzi
06-24-2006, 11:47 PM
Brightside for topsides and two pack for glassed-ply cabintop. Almost one year on (with covers on topsides) and still looking good. Brightside finish is easy to clean and seems pretty durable.
Pictures at http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2108222315
Dave Carnell
06-25-2006, 07:30 AM
The biggest advantage of 100% acrylic latex exterior paint is that you can come back even some years later and touch up spots without it showing. No other paint can do this because the vehicles of all other paints yellow on exposure to UV. It is similar to the fact that after a junked car has gone to rust its acrylic plastic lenses will be showroom bright.
Norman Bernstein
06-25-2006, 12:52 PM
Two part LPU's like Awlgrip and Imron release isocyanates into the air... consequently, they can be dangerous and demand a forced air respirator, not merely a dust mask. They're also extremely expensive and hard to repair, should they be scratched.
When it comes to topsides paint, the phrase 'de gustibus non disputante' (there is no accounting for taste) comes to mind... ask 100 boatbuilders, both amateur and professional, and they'll give you 100 different answers. There are those who will tell you to buy some cheap latex housepaint... others swear by Kirby Paints (probably more for the aura of old-time mercantilism on the label, than any other reason!)... still others will talk about various exotic single part ultra-high-tech coatings.
Much has to do with whether your project, in your mind's eye, demands an ultra high quality glossy finish worthy of any wooden boat museum... or if you're just looking for plain old practicality. I freely admit that, considering the effort I'm putting into my own boatbuilding project, I'd like the topsides paint to come out as good-looking as possible... but I acknowledge that my skills and resources probably won't result in perfection, either.
As a woodbutcher with limited experience, the best paint I've used so far seems to be Pettit 'EasyPoxy'.... terrific gloss, and it seems to have nice brushing characteristics... and can be bought at West Marine, etc.
JimConlin
06-25-2006, 01:06 PM
The two-part LPU paints contain isocyanate compounds which are quite hazardous, but they're not particularly volatile and get into the air only when the product is sprayed, and specialized equipment like forced air respitaors are needed. When these paints are brushed or rolled, an organic vapor respirator will deal with the solvent vapors.
westinghouse
06-26-2006, 12:13 AM
Two part lpus can be applied by an interested amateur. All of the previous comments on safety and health are relevant, and beyond those you gotta like your polisher. The beauty of two part lpus is that they flash quick and then dry to a super hard finish. Screw ups can be worked out with wet sanding and 3m cut paste and polish in a way they can't with any enamel (one part polyurethanes, according to the chemist's discourse on the matter and my own research, are simply fortified enamels). Two part lpus require a whole new form of literacy and in some cases they're the only way to get a finish worthy of Interlux's next ad. If I was pushed I would say that the roll/tip application with Awlgrip or Imron followed by a rigorous polishing schedule (if necessary) would give you a finish to make anyone drool.
Of course, the interested amateur takes risks with everything he does and this is no exception.
Todd Bradshaw
06-26-2006, 03:06 AM
Under a good acrylic canvas cover (Sunbrella or similar) even one-part enamels and varnish will last several years with little or no maintenance. My Starboat had gloss varnished topsides (mahogany, stained with alcohol-based stain, sealed with epoxy and coated with Captain's Varnish). The deck was painted with Brightside. It sat outside under a Sunbrella cover for more than five years with no maintenance at all. When I moved and had to peel the old registration numbers, they left no shadow (a lot of alcohol stains fade in sunlight to some extent) and there was no difference in gloss between the parts under the numbers and the rest of the hull.
If this boat is going to live most of the time on a trailer and under a cover, my experience tells me that the quality of the cover is going to be a much more important factor in your paint and varnish lifespan than whether it's one-part or two-part paint.
Chris Coose
06-26-2006, 07:23 AM
I used the new marine line of Rustoleum enamel paint this year for the deck and interior on my fiberglass WoodPussy. I liked the way it flowed on compared to the Brightside paint by Interlux. Also, the price is great at about $13.00 Qt. and $17.00 for the undercoat. I found this paint at Leow's.
A few years back a small periodical outfit ran a swatch test on a number of marine paints and found this paint held up best overall in FL. conditions. Outdid everyone.
After this year I am surely leaving the the boat store brands.
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