Router table top

[PeterSibley]

I use a router table a lot and over the years I've designed and built a series, the last one is an enclosed cabinet with a couple of vents and a computer fan to keep things cool, with drop in 1/2" perspex inserts with the router attached.

All very well, but I can't seem to come up with a material for the top which will remain flat .The current failure is 2 layers of 5/8" MDF with Formica kitchen bench laminate top and bottom ,all edges painted multiple coats of oil based paint .It's about 30 x 30inches .

The dip in the middle ( after 3 years ) is about 3/32". Hopeless !:o

Any suggestions for a flat and durable top !!

[Dave Fleming]

back in the 1970's?

1/2 inch Boiler Plate, Blanchard Ground etc...

[Paul Girouard]

Do you have any stretchers under the current top? Is it sagging under it's own and the router weight? Why not let in a steel stretcher on either side of the router base hole , would that impede the router operation/ or hinder the removable base plate your currenty using?

[htom]

Sounds like an application for a torsion box table. http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_wwk/episode/0,2046,DIY_14350_26946,00.html

You'd have to adopt a design to allow for the center cutout.

[PeterSibley]

Good suggestions all.

1/2 " plate , love it but my mill is too small to finish it :)

You're right Paul , a couple of heavy angle sections would fit...something like 2x2x1/4 would probably give it enough stiffness.Why didn't I think of that ?:o

Thanks for the torsion box link htom, I won't use it for this job ,but I do want to build a flat assembly surface,something bigger than the top of my sawbench ,maybe 6'x4'.

[Soapy]

Have a look at this table top.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41793&cat=1,43053,43885

[k4lmy]

Question? Is the router hanging on the top or is it mounted to a carriage from under? Several years ago American Woodworker mag ran a couple of articles on a router table and then a month or two later showed a mounting that can be raised and lowered from the top with out opening the top. I think one turn (360) of the crank raises 1/32 " or something on that order .. There are two cross peices within the the cab. that help support the top. Here it is also two layers of 3/4 MDF with plastic top and bottom. Mine has a edge band of Oak epoxied on the edge to keep out moisture. The lift mech. works great and there is no weight hanging on the top .

Good luck.. if you need more on this cab. email me..

Henry..

[Kim Whitmyre]

I used this:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/kwhitmyre/images/routertable01.jpg

It's 11-layer Birch ply, two pieces laminated together, with plastic laminate on both sides. I've been using it for several years now, with this hanging off of it:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/kwhitmyre/images/rt02.jpg

Still flat so far.

[Bob Cleek]

Half inch thick Corian or comparable solid surface material will work well. Unfortunately, it ain't cheap. If you are lucky, you can find a counter top at the recycler's that will work. It machines just like wood. You can also use half inch expanded polyurethane, which is often used for signs.

[merlinron]

corian is what i was going to suggest, also. i made a top of 1/2 " thick material about 15 yrs ago, still as flat as it was when new. i also made a sliding table for my table saw with it that also works on the router table

[Garrett Lowell]

Peter,

Perhaps you should look at cast iron. I bought an old Wards PowrKraft shaper off a friend for ten bucks a few years ago for the sole purpose of recycling the top as a router table top. It works great and it has a miter slot as well. You can try www.owwm.com and look under buy and sell, or keep a sharp eye out. I'll keep a sharp eye out for you as well, if you'd like.

[Nicholas Carey]

Phenolic board makes great router table tops. Layers of kraft paper or fine fabric laminated under high pressure/heat with phenolic resins. Stiff, strong, dimensionally stable.

You can buy purpose-built phenolic router table tops from Jessem amongst others. Or you can get the stuff from a plastics supplier -- you want something like NEMA grade X phenolic board, probably 1/2 inch thick or more. There's also phenolic-core counter top material available, like Nevamar Thicklam (http://www.nevamar.com/CompanyInformation/category.asp?cl=2&cg=35&new=0).

[Bob Smalser]

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594265/50414150.jpg

I make all those kinda tables and jigs from 1X2 hard maple laid up on edge. Soft-mount it and you won't find a more stable top. And should it get left out in the rain and lose its true, it is easily reflattened.

And it's real wood.

[Paul Girouard]

Hey Bob build a shop , then ya won't have to leave your router table out in the rain. ;)

[Wild Dingo]

... Soft-mount it and you won't find a more stable top. And should it get left out in the rain and lose its true, it is easily reflattened.

And it's real wood.

I know we have different terms for different things but Bob do you mind explaining what you mean by "soft-mount"?
Cheers

Oh and what Paul said mate... you really do need a shed mate! ;) hows the house coming along?

[PeterSibley]

Bob, want to post a few photos of that bench of your again ? I just ordered a copy of The Work Bench book by Landis and that one of yours is a good inspiration.

I need a decent bench !

[Bob Smalser]

Soft mount so a solid top can move seasonally without buckling....buttons in a groove. Steel buttons are also made for the purpose.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594265/36332508.jpg

1X2 or 1X3 strips laid on edge is a heavy, very stable top that will stay flat.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7297605/95066141.jpg

[Wild Dingo]

Cheers Bob :cool:

oooh I see you got busy between posts and whacked up a shed! god you work fast ;)

[PeterSibley]

Thanks Bob, I reckon I'll reproduce that vice too.

[Kim Whitmyre]

The laminate makes for a nice, uninterrupted slide of the stock across the table, whenever you slide a piece of stock across the table. ;) Notice the fence is also laminate-covered.

[cjp63]

I made mine as part of my side table on the table saw. No mitre slot but I can use my Beissemier-sp? fence and do just about anything with it.