Iron on edge banding application question

[Ocean Spray]

While making some .75" thick mahogany plywood plaques I have to use iron on edge banding. Since I am doing small lots, I use a conventional clothes iron to heat the tape or edge banding. I see that they make a small heating iron specifially for doing small lots of edge banding. These irons are adjustable from 190 to 450 degrees. My question is, how hot does a conventioal iron get when on it's highest setting?
How would you apply the edge banding to a concave edge? Heat and pressure?

[Bruce Hooke]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ironing

Wikipedia has a list of safe ironing temperatures for different fabrics. At the top end is linen at 445 F. At the bottom end are acrylic/nylon and others at 275 F. So, I think it is a safe bet that a good household iron will get up to around 450. Now, I know from experience that at least some irons do not get hot enough to effectively work on linen, so not all household irons get up to 450. This may have to do with aging heating elements.

[kc8pql]

Use the cotton setting at most. Much more than that and you risk scorching the wood before the glue gets hot. The biggest risk is not melting the glue enough because the heat has to transfer through the veneer to the glue, unlike hot air edge banding machines that heat the glue side of the tape. Lower heat settings on the iron allow the heat to penetrate to the glue with less chance of scorching but, of course that means it takes longer to apply the banding.

[gert]

Next time instead of buying iron on tape apply yellow glue to the veneer and the panel edge, let it dry completly and then iron it on.
The heat reactivates the yellow glue; follow behind with a rubbing stick to press the venner while the glue is still warm. This works great. I have turned "paint grade" doors into veneered stile and rail with this method and never a single loose veneer. This will NOT work with maple though because of the closed cell nature of maple.

[Ron Williamson]

I use the hottest setting and move quickly.
If the material is very cold, warm up the edge before applying the tape.
I also like to use a metal rubbing stick afterwards,because it absorbs some of the heat so the glue sets up faster and the tape won't curl.
R

[Paul Girouard]

Hottest setting ,( make sure there on water in the iron ), "special" mahogan wood "rub " block with 3/8" radius on all edges . Rub it after you pass the heat over, and don't be shy to go over a area more than once if the E/B curls up at the edge , just keep the iron moving so you don't burn the wood and "cook out " all the E/B glue .

The glue let it dry deal gert mentioned works well if the E/B you have is made for a E/B machine ,( no glue applied to tape), I'd think if the E/B was the pre glued type that wouldn't work , you'd need to get that type tape from a cabinet shop , or better supply shop , the big box guys will have the preglued type , I'd think.

I skive my E/B off with a12" planer knife , use the knife flat and pivot it down the E/Bing, then "ease the edge " with a sanding block, Jim's MTL got a big fancy E/Bing machine with routers and files built in so he MTL doesn't do much hand E/Bing. Try the planer knife Jim I think you'll like it if thsoe hands are sweet enought:D To handle the sharp edge that close :eek:

[Ocean Spray]

Jim, I guess I never thought of using a heat gun, I'll try that especially for the inside or concave edges. Gert, when using the yellow glue(Titebond?) method, do you add water to the iron to create moisture or steam to reactivate the glue? Ron, "metal rubbing stick", do you mean like a piece of one inch diameter steel or maybe smooth piece of flat steel bar or something store bought? Paul, your"special mahogany block", that's something that you just made in the shop, correct? Just a nice, smooth hard block with radius edges?
When cutting the ends of the edge banding after it has been adhered to the plywood, what do you think is the best way to cut it or trim it? gradually slice through it with a new blade in a utility knife, maybe skew chisel, a very, very fine saw?

[Ron Williamson]

Jim uses a softwood block,Paul uses a mahogany block,Gert uses a rubbing stick.
I use a metal block,sometimes it is a flat brass cabinet door handle,sometimes a steel corner brace.
I end trim with large scissors.
To trim edges,I bought a purpose made thing from Virutex,an edge-trimmer I think it's called.About $12-$15,it is far better than planer knives and box cutters(sorry fellas,it's true).
Woodcraft would prolly sell them,Lee Valley does for sure.
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=42536&cat=3,43738
R

[Paul Girouard]

My "special" block is just a block of 3/4 Mahog that fits in my hand well that radius:o on all edges.

We had a Virutex trimmer , I never like it , some use a chisel , some a utility knife , I use a 12" planer knife , laid flat on the stock and pivoted down / across , a skiving action to trim the E/Banding off the faces and to guillotine the E/Banding on the ends.

The Virutex aways seemed to me to grab a piece of grain and chip in / run in / pull at the E/banding into the wood . With the planer knife I and all the guys (3 out of 4 ) that I worked with had better luck / skill :confused: :o with the planer knife . The other guy used his chisel,( in my 3 out of 4 study) , no one used the virutex trimmer . Ron is the first I've heard who likes one , YMMY , as apparently Ron's does :)

[gert]

I've always used a dry iron. Yes the veneer has to be raw. The yellow glue (Titebond) method can be used for fairly large areas, as if you were using old fashioned hyde glue; then a veneer hammer would be usefull.

[Rick Starr]

I too like the virutex trimmer but it takes some adjustment to work properly. And I am much less enthusiastic about it on wood banding than on the synthetic solid surface stuff, where it excels.

[Ron Williamson]

I've found that veneer tape will splinter if it is trimmed hot,hence the metal rubdown thingie to absorb heat.
R

[John B]

What they say. heat gun for application , Chisel for trimming here.
I'd be interested to hear how you go with a concave though. the curve shape you introduce into the tape will prevent it from folding in. Ah.. I see,thats why you want to iron it on ?

[John B]

:D
geez, I thought it was a concave moulding he was running it into.:o mating face of a convex....drop leaf table or something.Didn't want to say it wasn't going to be very suitable.

[Rick Starr]

I have an idea ol' JohnB knows a thing r too 'bout kitchen cabinets.

[John B]

they're boxes I know that, but kitchens....nah , not really. A bit of commercial stuff, offices and the likes out of an under machined shop.
Kitchens you have to deal with people, be friendly , be helpful, stuff like that. Doesn't fit with my aspiration to be old and opstroperous.

[Ocean Spray]

A fellow that I work with suggested for a small concave edge, a quarter circle, maybe a three inch radius, cut a piece of edge banding material a little over size, place on the heated iron glue side up, watch the glue heat up, quickly pick it up and place it in the concave surface and press it down with a piece of large diameter wood dowel.

[Ocean Spray]

After using a conventional iron for doing the straight runs and for the not so successful inside or concave surfaces a combination of conventional iron and even a soldering iron, the heat gun wins by a mile.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid221/pba6d335b8b488eb23de5243da362dff3/eb94f5b4.jpg
It was like finding out that you hadn't been adding enough hardner to your epoxy.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid221/p2d4e97aa81f5d2f6756657ecb0b1c969/eb94f529.jpg
Even on the straight runs the heat gun with a radiused edged block for applying pressure was much faster and had better adhesion than the conventional iron. And in the concave areas it was just as easy.

To everyone, thanks for all your suggestions and help!