Refurbishing a Delta Unisaw

[Clinton B Chase]

Would love folks' feedback on how to go about resurfacing this saw's table and cleaning/lubing/etc the rest to bring it back after a decade of storage and little use after purchase by the PO in '89. Here are some thumbnails. It is a 3hp/1 phase saw/ 220V and sure feels solid. I may be able to get this saw in a trade...I'de trade a Delta 14" 1hp bandsaw (1yr old) for it. TX.

http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.5b04c54e02.jpg (http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?5b04c54e02.jpg)

http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.8eb5b70824.jpg (http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?8eb5b70824.jpg)

[img=http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.15f0ff995d.jpg] (http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?15f0ff995d.jpg)

[Mrleft8]

Sand the top with 220, and give it a good dose of Boeshield. That's probably all it needs. If the top is warped (unlikely) you can take it to a machine shop and have them mill it flat, but then you'll also have to have them remill the slots, and you'll also have to resmooth the surface. My Unisaw looked much like yours when I got it in 1984, but a days work had it looking just fine.

[capt jake]

Sand the top with 220, and give it a good dose of Boeshield. That's probably all it needs. If the top is warped (unlikely) you can take it to a machine shop and have them mill it flat, but then you'll also have to have them remill the slots, and you'll also have to resmooth the surface. My Unisaw looked much like yours when I got it in 1984, but a days work had it looking just fine.

Spot on! ;) I use a bit of oil and wet/dry sandpaper to do the sanding.

[kc8pql]

A random orbit sander speeds the work and sucks up at least some of the dust.

[Bob Cleek]

Yep, that's the ticket! Steel wool will do the job as well. Keep it wiped with an oily rag and she's good to go. Google around and you will find the owner's manual and parts diagrams. Odds are the mechanics are fine. There isn't that much to go wrong there. Make sure it has a decent motor, of course. I wouldn't trade a good bandsaw for it, though. You should be able to pick up a good used Unisaw with a 50" table and fence for less than a grand. Heck, sometimes you get lucky and find them for seven or eight hundred.

[boylesboats]

After you get it mirror smooth, buff Johnson Paste Wax monthly on the top.. Ans you'll have no problem like that again... I always buff my saw top least once of month.. And my saw is 10 years old and still like new....
Also it helps the work piece feed easier through the saw... Ask Norman from new yankee workshop....

[Tim_H]

If its real warped you can have it blanchard ground.

[Don Z.]

I used this http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/P/B0000EI96N.01._SS400_SCLZZZZZZZ_V1073509928_.jpg
on a band saw table to great effect... but that saw was only in storage for two years. It would be easier than sanding. Might be worth trying first, if it works, you're fine, if not, move on to the heavier stuff...

[Mrleft8]

Ya don't want a mirror shiney surface. Just a nice even dull gray.

[Tom Lathrop]

Clinton,

I have one a couple years older in constant use. Still works as good as new although it looks used. I second most remarks above. A random orbit or other oscillating sander leaves swirl marks that are not too attractive. I live in high humidity and I tried that. Sanding straight line is the ticket since you probably cant follow the mill marks. This one looks to have the Biesemier fence which is worth quite a bit. Never seen a good condition Unisaw for $700. New, a 14" bandsaw is worth about half a Unisaw with Biesemier or Unifence.

[Ron Williamson]

Have a look at the table extension on the left end.
Ours had droop of about a 1/16",from new,I think.We got a new one, but never bothered to install it.
I traded that saw to a guy for the same thing in 3PH/600V.Then bought it back for $500.
R

[Lew Barrett]

Clinton,

This one looks to have the Biesemier fence which is worth quite a bit. Never seen a good condition Unisaw for $700. New, a 14" bandsaw is worth about half a Unisaw with Biesemier or Unifence.

I'd agree with Tom on this regarding value. If you can trade a recent build mid-line 14" Delta for an American made Unisaw with a good fence, go for it. Three HP Unisaw will be all the saw you'll ever need.
Getting the top squared away will require just some elbow grease; not a factor in the decision. Use a block, sand with the grain. If you decide to use a machine, no big deal; you can always go back and sand through with a block later if it bothers you. You can oil her up first with your favorite oil/rust buster. You can't screw this part up, it's a very easy fix. I use carnauba wax, same as I would use on my car on my 66 every few months to keep any surface rust at bay. Without some surface treatment, my saw, which is kept in an unheated garage starts to show some color change every three months or so. With wax, I just put it on at that interval and everything remains as new.
You'll still want a good bandsaw though.

[Robmill0605]

I finished restoring a 1950 Northfied 8" jointer a while ago and had the same problem.
The technique I used was to first use a razor blade as a scraper to remove the surface rust. Then I used a 3M scotchbrite pad mounted my random ordit sander like sandpaper which quickly removed and polished the table. I followed that up with 220 wet sanding with mineral spirits, followed by several coats of paste wax.
Looks brand new. You can see the restoration od the jointer here:
http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=50704&highlight=northfield

By the way, a new Northfied is over ten grand, ny TOTAL cost was about 1200 dollars and this machine is the pride of my shop. It will crank through white oak like it was balsa wood.
Old machines are heavy, cast iron and restoring them to new service for the next 50 years just feels great.
Good luck, hope that helps.

[portsample]

I've used a random orbiter sander w/220 emory paper, followed by warming the table slightly, then applying Johnson paste wax. Allow to cool then buff.

I was given a Delta Contractors saw a few years ago that had sat exposed on Prince of Wales Island (...think rainforest) beneath a shed for several years. It was heavily rusted and weathered. I refinished the table as described and wire wheeled the trunion, worm and other gears in the mechanism, followed by warming and then the paste wax treatment. This is now my #2 saw ...after my Unisaw!

I'd stay away from oils and greases on woodworking tools at all costs: wood dust congeals with them to form a nasty thickening paste that eventually becomes a hard crust. Paste wax forms a nice low friction coating that protects from moisture and will not allow dust to stick or congeal.

Have fun!

Glenn

[merlinron]

try to stay away from oils when you polish the table. if you have to use some make sure you wash it off good with a laquer thinner or similar fully evaporating solvent. once polished and cleaned, it's hard to beat good ole' johnson's paste wax to seal the surface.

[Paul Girouard]

try to stay away from oils when you polish the table. if you have to use some make sure you wash it off good with a laquer thinner or similar fully evaporating solvent. once polished and cleaned, it's hard to beat good ole' johnson's paste wax to seal the surface.

Bingo merlin ! :)

[few3]

Check the arbor for run-out,

Then just clean it up with wet-dry paper or what have you.

If you are looking for a nice machined, clean look,...........

Pay a clean looking machinist to surface it :)

[StevenBauer]

Hey Ckint, I was down at Rockler today (new Porter Cable belt sander :)) and they had that Topsaver kit shown above. That'd probably be all you'd need. Is this for your shop or for work?

Steven

[Clinton B Chase]

I think this may be a right tilt saw so I may not want it but when I look and if i find it is left tilt I may buy/trade and keep it for myself...these Delta Unisaws are sure nice!

Cheers,
Clint

[boylesboats]

I think this may be a right tilt saw so I may not want it but when I look and if i find it is left tilt I may buy/trade and keep it for myself...these Delta Unisaws are sure nice!

Cheers,
Clint

You darn tootin' those Delta Unisaws are very nice saw.... I like them myself..

[Lew Barrett]

I wouldn't let the fact that it's right tilt get in the way of a good deal if it checks out OK otherwise. Almost all the older saws are right tilt.

[boylesboats]

right or left tilt? There ain't much choice, just move that unifence over on the other side of the blade....

[Mrleft8]

I gaurantee you it's a right tilt (Motor on the right, hand wheel on the left). Mine's a right tilt but that hasn't affected my work all that much...

[Rob Stokes, N. Vancouver]

I just finished a total resto on a 1955 Boice Crane cabinet saw. My table was a wee bit worse than yours - not much though, and I decided to dunk it in a home made electrolysis tanks for a day. It worked wonders and the rust disappeared. A bit of time afterwards with the sander sitting on top of a red (purple) 3M scrubbie and then it was wax time.

Check the bearings and replace them if you're at all concerned. They're cheap.

Rob

[Dan Lindberg]

Like this is the place for old wood boat info,

here is the place for old woodworking machinery,

http://www.owwm.org/viewforum.php?f=1

[SamSam]

Besides cleaning the top, make sure the blade and fence are aligned with the miter gauge slots. Sam

[Clinton B Chase]

thanks for thoughts all...I'm letting it go. Learned a bit!

Cheers,
Clint