Winter cover frame

[Iolaire]

I am looking for plans/experience on building a metal winter cover frame. This is for a 32' (on deck) wooden boat, stored in the water with the mast and boom in place. I will have a canvass cover made to fit. I plan to remove the stantion uprights and use the stantion bases to accept (6) 1" diameter athwartship frame members to sit in them. I would plan to use 1" galvanized tubular metal and specifically wonder about:
1) the best way to connect the tubing for strength and ease in set up and take down
2) in addition to the ridge line, how many other length wise supports would be needed and what is the best way to connect them
3) without using hardware along the side of the boat, what is the best way to "anchor" the sides of the canvass cover
Thanks for you advice.

[Clinton B Chase]

Kover Klamps is you answer.

Google it to find their site...I then use their hvy duty tarps to cover the frame, made from 3/4" electrical conduit.

Super strong. Cheers,
Clint

[S.V. Airlie]

Iolaire... just a question, why a metal frame? Would not pvc pipe be strong enough..? Lighter anyway... Just asking...

[S/V Laura Ellen]

Kover Klamps is you answer.

Google it to find their site...I then use their hvy duty tarps to cover the frame, made from 3/4" electrical conduit.

Super strong. Cheers,
Clint
I second this idea. Makes for a very strong frame, that is easy to set up, easy to take apart and easy to store. I've used it for three years and I'm very happy with it.

http://www.koverklampframes.com/

[Iolaire]

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s42/Stenon/Wxchart4-07.jpg
Thanks for the suggestion of the Kover Klamps, they seem like the ticket. is there a problem with rust from the electrical conduit pipe. Could some other metal tubing be used (? aluminum) and of the correct size to fit with the clamps. I am trying to stay away from SS as that would be a huge expense and not a "do it yourself" project.
As to why not PVC, the enclosed NOAA Wx chart for tonight ("hurricane force winds") is not unusual in Cape Breton thru the winter and even spring storms.

[willmarsh3]

I think the Kover clamps are a good idea the more I think about them. I've found PVC getting much more expensive lately. Also PVC will fracture suddenly if too much stress is put on it. PVC is lighter but not as strong as galvanized metal pipe.

[rbgarr]

Contact these folks for the whole deal: http://www.fairclough.com/home.htm

[Clinton B Chase]

PVC not OK in cold...the electrical EMT is aluminum...stays dry and no corrosion.

CheerS,
CLINT

[Roger Cumming]

I think wood is the better material for the framework for a canvas winter cover. Transverse frames (2 posts and 2 sloped rafters) 2' on center form a sufficiently rigid frame. A long limber 1x4 ridge and 1x3 eave stringers along each side define the shape for a fitted cover with vertical sides and a sloped roof. My cover had flaps for dock lines and spring lines and 2 zippered entries, one on each side into the cockpit. The cover extended down to the waterline to keep the sun off the varnished topsides.

Wood allows you to nail squares of carpet wherever a sharp angle occurs that might chafe the cover. I covered all the rafters with carpet. After 20 winters the framework was still serviceable, needing only minor nailing or screws to keep the individual frames from loosening. A good canvas cover with openings fore and aft (having a bowsprit and boomkin makes the openings easy without allowing rain in) will keep the boat ventilated and dry. Wood makes it a carpentry project with easily improvised details.

[Nanoose]

Roger - how do you secure the frame to the boat?

[Roger Cumming]

Nanoose, I didn't fasten the frames to the deck, I just put some carpet around the bottom of the frames and stood them up on top of the cap rail (the boat had bulwarks). Actually, the frames were notched to fit over the cap rail. The ridge was nailed (1 or 2 nails) to the top of each frame and the ends of the ridge were fastened to the ends of the bowsprit and boomkin. The 2 eave stringers were nailed (1 nail) to each frame. The framework was sufficiently stable once the ridge was fastened to the boat at the bowsprit and boomkin. The 2 eave stringers came together fore and aft at the ridge where they were lashed together.

[Iolaire]

Thanks for the information that the "EMT" conduit is aluminum. Now all I have to do is find it in this area. I haven't really started searching yet. I also don't think the PVC would be strong enough. I have used a wood frame in the past but find the frames to bulky, difficult to transport and store, and despite padding tend to mark the deck or bulwarks. Also, the thought of trying to hold up about 12-15 frames while the ridge pole is put in seems rather difficult. Maybe the theory is good but in practice it seems ackward.
I still wonder how the canvass cover could be easily or best hitched on the lower side ends. On the hard it is obvious, in the water is the question.
Looking forward to your responses.

[Tom M.]

EMT is NOT usually aluminum. Its usually galvanized steel, but its not hot dipped. The galvanizing is not "crusty". At least that's the way it is about 60 miles inland. On the coast maybe they spec aluminum more often. You can spend more money for aluminum EMT.

You can find it at an electrical supply shop, or a home center if there's one near you.

[Bruce Hooke]

Yes, EMT should be very easy to find, and yes, in my experience it is normally galvanized steel. You may have to look a little harder to find it in larger sizes, but it is used at some point on most residential and commercial buildings so it should be readily available. Despite the corrosion problem, I'd be inclined to stick with the galvanized steel EMT because it seems to me that it will be stronger for the same size.

[Iolaire]

Regarding "aluminum": I was going by the information in post #8 above which was encouraging for use as the boat is in salt water. Will have to see what I can find at the stores. We do have Home Depot here so will probably start there (can't seem to find it on their web site however), then to electrical supplies stores. Again thanks for the info.

[Bruce Hooke]

I'd be very surprised if Home Depot does not have it. I find that they don't tend to list a lot of stuff like this on their website. They seem to focus their website on things people comparison shop more for, like power tools and appliances. Lumber and other "raw materials" never seem to be listed, much to may annoyance -- it would be helpful to be able to look up lumber prices when trying to price out projects rather than having to either go to the store or spend ages on the phone trying to get the information.

[Bruce Hooke]

Regarding "aluminum": I was going by the information in post #8 above which was encouraging for use as the boat is in salt water.

Yes, and Clinton is more experience in this than I am, so I would not lightly discard his advice. On the other hand, if you worried about strength, steel will be stronger than aluminum unless the walls of the aluminum tubing are much thicker (or you go with larger diameter tubing).

[Dan McCosh]

Re: fastening the cover while in the water. Can't seem to post drawings, but here's what we have done for many years.

1: The cover is made with about 3 ins. deep hems along the edges that overhang the hull.
2: 3/4 ins. PVC tubing slides into and is secured by the hem.
3: There are struts about every eight feet that overhang the hull, pointing down. These are secured to the framing (in our case, to the lifeline stanchions, which stay in place, but they could be attached to the cover framing.
4: A line is secured to the pipe/hem, led through an eye at the end of the strut, then back up to the deck. This allows you to tie it down easily from the deck.

In addition to being a solid way to secure the tarp, the pipe in the hem spreads the tarp line load, rather than straining grommets. It also makes it very easy to put the tarp on--rolling it around each pipe, then letting it unroll and drop over the sides, something like a Greek scroll.

[Iolaire]

Sounds like a good plan. Would love to see pictures of it. At least it gives ideas for that or some other variation.
Further on the metal tubing for the frame. Called an electrical supply house this am and got the following: 1) "EMT" is very thin aluminum used only for interior work in dry places as is "rusts", 2) galvanized 1" OD is very heavy, used in explosive possible environments and often put into concrete, 3) aluminum conduit is light but not thin, wx resistant and the 3/4" ID would be about 1"OD. This latter seems to be the stuff to use. Any thoughts on this information?

[willmarsh3]

When I lived in Maryland I had a cover that consisted of frames like this.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2093532598

I made this from 1/2" galvanized pipe. The legs were screwed into the Tees tightly so they wouldn't turn loose. The short lengths going up to the elbows were just hand tight so the legs could be folded flat for storage. I had three of these sitting on the deck as shown in the drawing. For extra security I tied them together with rope and pulled it tight to the stern or mizzen mast. The flanges and carpeting provide extra padding so as to not scratch the deck. I just set these on the deck, tied them together and draped a tarp over it and tied the edges to the lifelines. It probably took only 1/2 hour to set up and take down. That kept the snow and rain off the cabin top and decks nicely.

[Tom M.]

Dunno. Sounds like local vocabulary to me. For what its worth EMT stands for "electrical metallic tubing". A generic term.

I'd git over to the Home Despots and see it in person.

[Noah]

This was my cover on the Hinckley. This is when I purchased it down in Maryland. It got beefed up for Vermont weather, but basically the same thing. If your mast is up, you can use a couple of halyard to hold up the cover rather than full length stringers.

http://www.morebutter.com/hinckley/exterior/cover.jpg

The thing I liked the best, was how the cover was held out from the sides of the boat to promote air circ. It used two Pipe hanger things that fit over the stanchion to hold the wood stringers on outside the hull. Once snugged down it worked well