Jay Greer
05-03-2007, 02:52 PM
Some concerns about the unavailabiltiy of oil
based glazing coumpounds such as Z-Spar #2 Glaze have been posted. Here is a solution.
It seems that the EPA is bound and determined to eliminate VOC emitting
products no matter how small the impact on the envirionment may be.
Certainly the manufacturers can not justify catering to as small a market as the
wooden boat industry represents. So it seems that we are returning to square
one where those who built their own boats out of genuine tree wood had to
formulate their own paint products.
When it comes to glazing compounds, there are actually more available now
than there ever have been in the past. While the old standby, #1 and #2 Z-Spar Surface Glaze was
all that could be had then, we now have epoxy bases fillers as well as those
that are nitro cellulose based. Don't get me wrong, I like #2 Glaze and still
have a case of it in the paint shop which will last quite a while. However, it
does, often, need to be applied twice as it does shrink. That is why we use it
for what we call "slick glaze", applying it only for the smallest of dings and
dents. Larger voids are filled with micro balloons mixed with fast set epoxy.
When we have the intermediate need for a fast set filler for medium dings, we
resort to automotive glaze that is lacquer based such as "Nitro-Stan."
It should be remembered that if the fliller is harder than the sorrounding
surface, it will stand proud while the sorrounding surface is sanded during
fairing. So the glazing compound should be applied as smoothly as possible. In other words, you will end up with a lump rather than a smooth
surface if you glop on a heavy coat of glaze. Block sanding with a thick felt pad is always recommended.
Micro balloons have the property of being the same density of many woods
and so can be planed, sawn, chisled and sanded smooth. They will hold on
well and so are an excellent patching material for larger areas of damage.
Well then, what do we use in place of #2 Glaze if it can not be found? Simple!
Get a bag of talc from your local chemical, paint or art supply and mix it with
white oil based primer until you have the consitancy you like. If you want a fast dry, add some Jap drier. Now you know
where that case of #2 I have came from. Empty pint storage cans can be
purchased from paint stores. Be sure to squirt in a shot of "Bloxeygen" to
keep the glaze from kicking in the can!
Fair Winds,
Jay
__.
based glazing coumpounds such as Z-Spar #2 Glaze have been posted. Here is a solution.
It seems that the EPA is bound and determined to eliminate VOC emitting
products no matter how small the impact on the envirionment may be.
Certainly the manufacturers can not justify catering to as small a market as the
wooden boat industry represents. So it seems that we are returning to square
one where those who built their own boats out of genuine tree wood had to
formulate their own paint products.
When it comes to glazing compounds, there are actually more available now
than there ever have been in the past. While the old standby, #1 and #2 Z-Spar Surface Glaze was
all that could be had then, we now have epoxy bases fillers as well as those
that are nitro cellulose based. Don't get me wrong, I like #2 Glaze and still
have a case of it in the paint shop which will last quite a while. However, it
does, often, need to be applied twice as it does shrink. That is why we use it
for what we call "slick glaze", applying it only for the smallest of dings and
dents. Larger voids are filled with micro balloons mixed with fast set epoxy.
When we have the intermediate need for a fast set filler for medium dings, we
resort to automotive glaze that is lacquer based such as "Nitro-Stan."
It should be remembered that if the fliller is harder than the sorrounding
surface, it will stand proud while the sorrounding surface is sanded during
fairing. So the glazing compound should be applied as smoothly as possible. In other words, you will end up with a lump rather than a smooth
surface if you glop on a heavy coat of glaze. Block sanding with a thick felt pad is always recommended.
Micro balloons have the property of being the same density of many woods
and so can be planed, sawn, chisled and sanded smooth. They will hold on
well and so are an excellent patching material for larger areas of damage.
Well then, what do we use in place of #2 Glaze if it can not be found? Simple!
Get a bag of talc from your local chemical, paint or art supply and mix it with
white oil based primer until you have the consitancy you like. If you want a fast dry, add some Jap drier. Now you know
where that case of #2 I have came from. Empty pint storage cans can be
purchased from paint stores. Be sure to squirt in a shot of "Bloxeygen" to
keep the glaze from kicking in the can!
Fair Winds,
Jay
__.