View Full Version : double-ender rudder hardware
oceanjohnny
06-17-2007, 12:47 PM
I'm trying to find a rudder gudgeon that can be fastened to the stern post. There is only about 2" of flat surface for the screws. Does anyone know of a company that sells something like this? I'm picturing something like an ordinary gudgeon, but with the strap/screw hole part oriented vertically rather than horizontally.
Stashu
06-17-2007, 12:59 PM
Try Duck Trap in Maine. I know they have such an item. Not inexpensive, but a real problem solver.
Kim Whitmyre
06-17-2007, 03:14 PM
Here's how it's done on Wharrams:
http://www.wharram.eu/photos/albums/Tiki-range/Tiki-30/DSC02324.JPG
The holes on the rudder are offset a bit from the holes on the stem. A pre-stretched braid is then pulled tight and epoxied where it passes thru the holes.
The only caveat is that the bottom of the rudders on Wharrams are even with the deepest portion of the keel. If the rudder is deeper than the keel, this won't work.
Yeadon
06-17-2007, 05:14 PM
I'm trying to find a rudder gudgeon that can be fastened to the stern post. There is only about 2" of flat surface for the screws. Does anyone know of a company that sells something like this? I'm picturing something like an ordinary gudgeon, but with the strap/screw hole part oriented vertically rather than horizontally.
Oceanjohnny, what are you building?
hikingchrs
06-17-2007, 05:25 PM
I bought my gudgeons from Springfeild CenterBoard Co., and my pintels from Port Townsend Foundery, PTF sells gudgeons also here is a link to their rudder section http://www.porttownsendfoundry.com/id42.htm
Good luck
Chris
Steve Lansdowne
06-27-2007, 09:29 AM
Duckworksmagazine.com sells some stainless steel gudgeons that have vertical straps that might work. On my Wee Rob sailing canoe I had Lost in the Woods Boatworks make me some L shaped brackets, two for the stem and two for the rudder, that have a hole bored through the horizontal section. These are screwed to the aft stem a bit further apart than they are to the rudder. A single long brass rod goes through all four holes and thus holds the rudder on. For a small boat with a relatively non-curved aft stem this works fine.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p608ba098075d037b79fd6e7a13cb235a/e8da7783.jpg
Thorne
06-27-2007, 10:02 AM
There have been some other threads on this very topic, I think you'd find them if you search for "strap-mounted gudgeon" or something similar.
One option if you want a gudgeon that mounts to the stem like pintles mount to rudders, is to buy a pintle and then cut and drill the metal for a gudgeon == sorta a 'sex-change' operation if you catch my drift...
;0 )
I was lucky enough to find a bronze strap gudgeon that only needed a bit of drilling out the keyed slot a bit to mount on the skeg and work with the pintles on my rudder --
http://www.luckhardt.com/kickup-full1.jpg
Ron Paro
06-27-2007, 12:01 PM
Here is another alternative, if you are using a 'flip-up' rudder where the lower portion will flip up when beaching or in shallow water. The attachment is accomplished using a 12" bronze rod, fitted through eye-bolts. I had read somewhere that the one thing that a particular skiff owner did not like about this arrangement was that it was noisy due to the 'play' between the rod and the eyes. I decided that I would attempt to solve this by buying oversize eye-bolts and filling the eyes with epoxy. Then I drilled a hole through the cured epoxy which the rod fit through without any play. This resulted in a very smooth and quiet steering mechanism.
Notice the stainless ring clip at the top of the rod, and the pin clip retainer at the bottom. With this set-up, I can be confident that the rod will not slip out, while it is still easy to remove the lower pin and pull the rod upwards to remove the rudder.
http://bp1.blogger.com/_XuaT2XHyCMw/RfS5RztIrzI/AAAAAAAAAM0/YF7VM9P57Gg/s200/IMG_2990.JPG http://bp2.blogger.com/_XuaT2XHyCMw/RmOH9uE3jiI/AAAAAAAAATE/kOuR64wYDYA/s200/IMG_3240.JPG
Bob Smalser
06-27-2007, 02:35 PM
http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=849
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6490387/81122416.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677609.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677187.jpg
Garth Jones
06-27-2007, 03:43 PM
Another possibility is Classic Marine in Britain. Here's the rudder hardware on my Ness Yawl:
http://www.slaughterhousegallery.com/Ness%20Yawl/Images/rudderhardware.jpg
Cheers,
Garth
Rigadog
04-13-2008, 01:48 PM
Totally love the Wharram solution. What size is the boat?
John Meachen
04-13-2008, 05:21 PM
I know that Classic Marine were working on rudder fittings for double enders last year as I talked to a fellow at the Beale Park boat show who was waiting to get his hands on a set.By now,they may be available.
StevenBauer
04-13-2008, 06:27 PM
On some double enders the problem is compounded by a curving sternpost. On the faering I built with my son we used the custom fitting that Moray MacPhail and Iain Oughtred came up with.
Here it is in the upper, shallow water position:
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r241/bauerdad/Small%20Reach%20Regatta%202007/IMG_1220.jpg
http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/boatlists/images/elflis1.gif
James McMullen
04-14-2008, 12:23 AM
I've tried the eyebolts thing. . . works okay. . . sorta. . . but not as strong as it ought to be I suspect, and not appropriate aesthetically to me. For Rowan I couldn't find what I wanted cheap--bronze hardware is so expensive!--so instead I spent a couple thousand dollars buying a lathe and a milling machine and setting up a home shop foundry so I could make 'em for practically nothing :rolleyes:.
http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/29653/2786632000088484686S500x500Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2786632000088484686YYMRCy)
http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/42178/2508398830088484686S500x500Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2508398830088484686IrabOr)
http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/2207/2221409670088484686S500x500Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2221409670088484686MhYckZ)
You can also just make patterns to match your boat's sternpost and give them to a foundry to cast for you.
BBSebens
04-14-2008, 08:27 AM
Spending a few thousand to save a couple hundred.
nice...:D
James McMullen
04-14-2008, 09:13 AM
That's how I explained it to my wife: "Look how much money I'm saving, honey."
kenjamin
04-14-2008, 09:13 AM
I always wanted a lathe, milling machine, and a foundry (and a long-haired cat for that matter) but I chose to glue up the outer keel to use standard (West Marine) stainless. This is not my final rudder and I will build a kick-up one someday but I like the fact that with the straight run of the hinge of the rudder, it makes it easy to place or remove while on the water.
http://ford.physics.fsu.edu/XenaRudder.jpg
StevenBauer
04-25-2008, 11:14 AM
DaveR just sent this pic of our Elf's rudder hardware. This is in the raised, shallow water, position.
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r241/bauerdad/Small%20Reach%20Regatta%202007/DSC04204.jpg
Steven
jgerber
04-26-2008, 10:11 AM
Steven,
What does it take to completely remove the rudder?
Does the long rod lift up and out?
Are you satisfied with the set up you got from Classic Marine?
Jack
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