Cutting a cove in the sheer plank...

[nico108]

I am preparing to ciut the cove in my sheer plank and have a few questions. The boat is a thirty four foot Aage Nielson/Paul Luke yawl. When replacing the deck I replaced the sheer plank as well and now need to cut the cove. I only have a piece of the old plank and have taken the measurments off of it, and also from a few photos of the two other remaining yawls of her type.

My question(s) are this; does the cove run an equal distance from the toe rail the entire length of the boat (2 and 1/4") or does it taper upwards towards the bow and aft? I ran blue tape to look at both varities and they both look good, but I want to know what is more classic, as in how has it always been done?

Also when I shape the finian (which is like the feathers of an arrow)it seems to want to cut into the plank below the sheer; thats not right is it? So I have to move the cove up a little by about 3/8ths to keep the whole design on the sheer; should I then echo this on the bow?

Thanks in advance.

[JimConlin]

Wait by the mailbox.
There's an article on this very subject in the new (#199) issue of WoodenBoat which arrived here today.

[nico108]

Well, well... I guess I'll not cut it tomorrow then until I see the new WB; maybe wait a day or two. Thanks for the heads up!:)

[KE Wales]

Hello,

This is a noteworthy boat.
It’s important enough to make an effort to cut the cove stripe in its original position and configuration.

Aage Neilsen’s plans are at the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem MA. And, I’d contact Frank Luke. Frank Luke works at Paul Luke Inc., East Boothbay, Maine.

I don't know whether or not the book by Maynard Bray and Tom Jackson about Aage Nielsen's boats would address your question but there might be photos in there that could be of help...the book is called, "Worthy of the Sea...K. Aage Nielsen and His Legacy of Yacht Design."

I think that some of these cove stripes were cut parallel and some may have dropped ever so slightly downward (and I don't think any would have tipped up)--but please don't take my word for it. Check with the experts and look at the design.

I hope this helps you,

Karen

[Tom Jackson]

I assume this boat is CARINA II, and if so, her sister JESTER, which has been under restoration at French & Webb in Belfast, Maine, would provide some excellent guidance. Also, the Nielsen book chapter called "An Eye for Detail" includes detail drawings of covestripes from WHISKER, 1955, a similar 41-footer. If you contact the Peabody-Essex museum, refer to the design No. 251, and ask for George Schwartz, who might be able to check the files to see if a covestripe detail drawing exists for this particular design.

[nico108]

Thanks for your help. The boat is actually Jester and not Carina II. I have been restoring her for nearly six years, apprenticing myself at first to French and Webb and now using their facilities to finish the job. Carina II is in fact in a bad way right now at Paul E Luke's in East Boothbay.

Again, thanks.

[StevenBauer]

I'd love to see pics of Jester if you feel like sharing. :) Nielson's boats are awesome. I really enjoyed Tom and Maynard's book.

Steven

[Jay Greer]

Cutting a cove involves using a batten tacked onto the sheer at a sweep that is pleasing to the eye. This means that, although cutting the cove at a constant distance from the covering board may be the easiest way to proceed, it is not always the best for the cosmetic accent of the hull. Using a router for this process is, most often, the method of choice, as opposed to using a plane such as a Stanley 55.
Tapering the cut can only be accomplished by using a riser guide on the batten or by hand carving. Remember that you only have one chance to do the job correctly. Springing the batten will keep the upper margin parallel to the desired line. So, I would recommend that you practice on a scrap plank prior to making the final cut. Most coves I have cut, that were pleasing to the eye, taper from the bottom and were cut by hand for the portion of the taper.
Jay