Trailer recommendations?

[drift montana]

I thought I'd start asking about trailers now, so I don't have to panick in a couple months. I am building a 13' 4" Melonseed that will live on a trailer when not sailing. I figure the boat will weigh about 200 lbs or so when complete, beam 4' 2". I am building it and live in Montana, but will be towing it back to Maryland for delivery in the spring. Thus, one of the larger trailer makers with a Montana outlet would be key. Thoughts? Recommendations?

Thanks! -Tony

[Thorne]

One serious issue you will discover is that most trailers are WAY too stiffly-sprung for wooden boats -- they are designed for fiberglass or metal-hulled boats weighing twice as much per foot.

If your purchaser will spring for a top-notch Trailex model, delivery will be much kinder on the boat. You will need to build or customize the supports and bunks on any trailer - few if any have the correct support system for wooden boats.

http://www.castlecraft.com/images/Trailex-SUT500S-R.jpg
http://www.castlecraft.com/sut-500-s.htm

I've gone the cheap route on trailers and am now regretting it -- plus it has cost me nearly the price of a new trailer and I'm not done yet.

When building bunks, consider pre-bending the 2x4's to the exact curve of the hull before covering with carpet and mounting on supports -- this avoids the bunks rubbing bare spots in the center of the hull's widest spot on either side. Rollers are good for the keel/bottom, and to support the skeg at the far back.

Consider using a second set of lights on a bar hooked to the top of the transom, or built onto a faux rudder with pintles to mount on the gudgeons. This puts the lights up high and far back, and helps to keep the wankers away who would otherwise run into the boat at 90 mph...they just don't see those little lights on the trailer frame down low and forward.

For something that valuable, I'd recommend using a steering wheel lock-bar through the decorative holes in the metal wheels -- just locking the trailer mount onto the towball provides little protection against a determined thief with a crowbar and big wrench. They can pop the mount or remove the ball, then lash the trailer tongue to their bumper to tow it far enough away to escape notice. Carry a spare, but don't mount it on the trailer -- keep it locked in the cab of the tow vehicle.

[Woxbox]

Ditto what Thorne said. Spring for a new one. I've bought a couple of trailers in recent years. There's very little difference between manufacturers, and they're all highly adjustable. I always add extra supports for wooden boats.

And yes, overly stiff springs are your biggest problem. Boat and trailer will bounce clear of the road at times if the springs are too stiff. You really don't want to have that going on behind the car. The torsion springs are said to be more forgiving, but you don't normally see them on the smallest models. On one trailer I had, I took apart the leaf springs and removed the center of the three leaves. That made it just right for my light boat.

After you buy the trailer, figure on spending as much as another $100 or so on extra parts to get it just right. (And shop around for the extra pieces - the prices vary enormously.)

[almeyer]

I bought a jon boat trailer at a local sporting goods store and had to modify it somewhat to make it suit me. What Thorne and Woxbox are saying is true. Also, if your trailer has 8-inch tires, swap them out for 12" if you spend any time on the highway.
Al

[drift montana]

Thanks for the input so far! Thorne, have you used the Trailex trailers? That is the only one I've found so far that is made for lighter boats. The spring suspension and 8" wheels are a concern for me. I a most familiar with drift bat trailers which we haul on the highway and on gravel roads. 12" tires are critical, along with a torsion bar axle. I may hit up some of the small skiff racing groups and see what they are using.

Any other suggestions from the gallery?

First layer of glass on the outside last night!

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y236/tonythatcher/IMG_1963.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y236/tonythatcher/IMG_1965.jpg

-Tony

[Thorne]

I haven't used one meself, but many of the local TSCA folks have 'em -=- very nice and light, well-sprung for small boats. You can just pick up the trailer by hand and reposition it when backing up to the ramp.

The 8" wheels are a concern, but might be worth the tradeoff for quality bearings, axles, etc....hard to say.

Are you building this for someone else? If so, what would they prefer or have budgeted for?

[mike hanyi]

a boat that small I would SERIOUSLY consider putting on the roof for the trip, that is a HELL of a drive pulling a bitsy trailer to kill your fuel economy, even borrowing a pickup would help.

as for the trailer I have a flat utility trailer and I built saddles for the boat, I but foam on the top edge and covered it with leather, I got many complements on it, the trailer is used for all other tasks when not hauling the boat.

old firehose is free and also great to cover the foam.

[drift montana]

Thorne - I am building it for my folks. They will certainly choose quality over cost most days. I contacted the TrailEx people to see if you can put 12" wheels on the hubs. From the photos, it looks like they should fit.

Mike - I have kicked around the flatbed idea also. My fishing guide fried uses the same flatbed for his driftboat or raft. And when not on the river, he has a set of sides for it so he can haul whatever else he wants. Certainly nice to have options. As for towing ruining fuel economy, I have to disagree. My folks drove to Montana from Maryland last summer with a canoe on the roof and towing a small "Rack and Roll" trailer. On the way home, they put the canoe on the trailer also. As I recall, they got about 7 mpg better on the return home. Wind resistence is the biggest killer of fuel economy.

Cheers!
-Tony

[Ron Paro]

I use a Snow Bear utility trailer bought at HDepot for a little more than $700. It is 5x8, but with the ends folded down, it has a 12' bed. The wheels are 12". The springs are a little stiff for my 150# skiff, but it really does not bounce unless the road is really bad. I bolted a roller on the end of the rear gate, and I put foam padding under the boat. I had the trailer before I built the boat and I use it as a utility trailer when I am not moving my boat.

http://birdsbloomsandbutterflies.com/JSimages/JS_on_trailer.JPG

Ron http://jimmyskiff.blogspot.com

[katiedobe]

I was going to suggest just what Ron said.