Rowing Set up

[meuritt]

Had a nice row yesterday with my new to me 14' Whitehall. I found myself sliding back off the seat so my sit bones sort of hooked and anchored me for the pull, which made the reach and recovery of the oars more intuitive. Then with my feet trying to gain some purchase on the frame, I was able to make some bow waves.

I came to one primary conclusion, being 6'4", 200# with a 4' beam boat and 7.5' long oars, I am too big for the current set up. I need to move the oarlocks a inch or two further from me and maybe that much higher, especially if I want to sit on a cushion. To get the blades out of the water for the return, I had to have my hands almost rubbing my legs. I also need to make a set of foot braces.

I am starting to make an 8' pair of oars that should address that feeling of "can't get the blades into the water without having the hands over shoulder height" feeling

Is there any information anyone can point me too about how a non sliding rowing station should be set up? Like how far the oarlocks from the seat, how high off the gunwales.

In searching this site, I did find reference to the Dory Stroke and am proud to say I was on my way to getting that. I discovered if I let the lower edge be the leading edge, the blades went in easier and deeper, and I got a lot more power for my trouble. I had even been trying to work my shoulders.

Thanks

Mike
San Rafael, CA

[Ian McColgin]

Grand start. You're right about the need for longer oars. Depending on the boat balance, you might try a lower seat. Properly built Whitehalls have the thwarts on hangers or on a seat riser but not directly pressing a hard spot out against the frames. If this is the case, try removing the thwart and improvising something lower and a bit further away from the oarlocks. This may help establish the relationship needed before you make too many changes.

G'luck

[Tom Robb]

Or you could take the thwart out, replace it w/ a box big enough to sit on, try different locations to see where the boat balances best and maybe rig some sort of clamp-on row locks to find where the reach to the handles is most effective, then re-do the thwart and row locks..

[Thorne]

First I'd try rowing with longer oars -- you may end up with 8.5' or longer ones, but there is no easy way to decide without trying various lengths. I have a pair of 8' spruce oars you can try, but the grips are slightly oval so they'll throw off the dory stroke.

The oarlocks are already sitting up very high, so moving them up higher might get pretty strange-looking, not to mention have mechanical trouble (like breaking the oar pad bolts).http://home.earthlink.net/%7Ecdeeznuts/Gilpin%20for%20sale/pictures/pict2777.jpg

I'd suggest trying to move the oarpad/lock first, testing on the trailer. Measure the height/depth of the current stroke (hang strings from overhead beams, mark them where the blades hit), and measure how close the handles come to your legs. Build a temporary oarpad from plywood or 2x4's or whatever, and clamp it into place just aft of the existing one on either side. Just drill the holes for the oarlocks directly into the test oarpads, don't worry about the metal oarlock bases. Try sitting in the usual spot and see if that improves the height/depth of the stroke and the 'hands hitting legs' issue.

With any luck, and with longer oars (and possibly a cross-hand stroke), this might fix the issue. You will need footbraces -- lots of really nice trad designs around, many involving decorative rods held in brackets onto the floorboards.

You can get some gel rowing cushions online that are very low-profile, also worth testing before buying.

Changing the thwart height is an option I'd try last, as it involves quite a bit of modification.

Did you do the Sunday am row yesterday? I thought about making it but had my BD party the night before and we stayed up way too late.

If you can get out with some other boats and experienced rowers it will provide the very best test experience, as you can borrow oars, try cushions, and get some expert advice.

[Eric Hvalsoe]

As a general rule I center my oarlock sockets 12" aft of the aft edge of the thwart and about 6.5" above the height of the thwart top - this referring to a boat of 4.5' beam. Maybe for a big fella like you I'd set them another 1" higher. For a boat of only 4' beam, unless you are using an overlapping grip, 7.5 oars should be adequate - but your the guy in the boat, make 8's if you want. Don't let the blades dive deeply in the water, keep the blades near the suface as you pull through. The egonomics change a lot between calm or rough water. You need more clearance and more height differential between thwart and oarlock in rough water. You can't expect a sustained pull without heel or footrests of some kind.

[boatbear]

I fizzed up some stainless steel outriggers for my 9' oars. I also made similar shaped supports with velcro straps further aft to hold the oars when not in use.
http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL405/8230927/15385054/266363050.jpg

The geometry is just right, and the oars are safely out of the way when sitting on the gunwhales when sailing. I also have a nicely rounded bit of wood screwed to the floor as a foot support.
Charlie

[wetstuff]

In about the middle of this page..

http://www.shawandtenney.com/wooden-rowing-oars.htm

is Shaw & Tenney's tutorial on size/placement.

[Tom Hunter]

I am of the opinion that Shaw and Tenny undersize the oars if you are serious about rowing. My short oars are 8'6" and my longer ones are 9' just like Charlies.

For comparison my boat is 18'. I sit on a cushion on top of the floorboard, which is lower than most people sit but works for me.

[dredbob]

Pete Culler's old rule-of-thumb was oarlocks 11" abaft the aft edge of the thwart and 7" above it.

Bob

[Yeadon]

You can also have someone measure you from your elbow to that round bone that sticks out on the side of your wrist. That'll give you a bit more info about where to put an oarlock.

I think I read that here on the forum somewhere. Makes sense.

Long oars. Short oars. I'm just happy to hear you're rowing.