2 part teak cleaner neutralizer needed

[Hughman]

I have a quart of Boat Life part 1, which is Sodium Hydroxide, and an empty bottle of part 2....(where did that Hydrocloric acid leak ????) I don't have the dilution % for this product. Anyway, would Muriatic Acid 35% do to replace it? And what strength? Does anyone have chemistry to evaluate the substitution?This is to be used on pine....seems too strong as it is.(Muriatic is the same as Hydrocloric? I didn't know that. Why the different names?)

[Hwyl]

I'd dilute it by 50%, the real key is the fresh water irrigation after it's all done it's work and neutralised the Lye. This seems very non Hughman, isn't there a less intense method to what you want to achieve?

There's always oxalic acid
http://www.gps.caltech.edu/%7Eenadin/Travel/Alaska_0705/websize/rhubarb.jpg

[Bob Cleek]

Throw the crap out. It's terrible! BoatLife "teak cleaner" is WAY too aggressive to clean teak. It eats the soft grain out of the wood and destroys it. Then, as you know, you have the "neutralizing" problem to deal with. It is really a scam and always has been. There's nothing specific about it that warrants the "teak" reference. It's just a strong acid solution.

Go to the local hardware of paint store and buy "wood bleach," which is oxalic acid crystals. They dissolve in water and a weak mixture of this solution will gently bleach teak perfectly. Experiment with the strength. If too weak, just reapply. It "neutralizes" with soapy water. It is about a tenth the price of BoatLife as well, although it doesn't say "teak" or have a picture of a boat on the package.

[Hughman]

I'm not cleaning teak.I'm trying to remove motor oil from pine. Lye is what to use for oils and organic stains. The wood will be resurfaced after I'm done, to remove raised grain.I just wanted to know what strength to dilute the acid neutralizer.

[Hughman]

Gareth, Miss Rubarb looks like she is waiting for something.....

[Hwyl]

My acid is of the ascetic kind.

[Hughman]

Well, OK. The leaf is redundant.

[Concordia...41]

I don't know what the solution is - other than to buy another kit.

And Bob - the teak cleaner is the cat's meow when it comes to diesel stains, rust, electrolysis, etc. - but you do have to neutralize it as part of the process.

Hugh - you're probably already doing this, but I wet the wood, pour on type A in a controlled environment , rinse with fresh water, and then neutralize.

Adding the fresh water rinse between A & B, I find myself using less B.

[Frank Wentzel]

Hi Hugh

I am a chemist so I know a little about acid-base situations. You could use muriatic acid (which is just technical grade 20% hydrochloric acid) diluted 3 or 4 to 1. If you want to avoid the fumes and corrosivity you could also use vinegar (5% acetic acid). If you don't have a pH indicator you can just rinse with the acetic acid until the "greasy" feeling goes away. Sodium hydroxide solutions feel slick or greasy (its just your skin dissolving away). When the greasy feeling is gone the sodium hydroxide is neutralized (or your fingers have dissolved).

/// Frank ///

[Bob Cleek]

I know the "teak cleaner" works well for removing corrosion from metals. It's acid, after all. But... you have to use proprietary neutralizers and water it down in some instances. Oxalic acid (wood bleach) is just a crystaline power in a plastic tub. You can use it for all those same purposes and only mix what you need when you need it, in the strength you want. So much more convenient and a much, much less costly. Dirt cheap, in fact.

[Hughman]

Hi Hugh

I am a chemist so I know a little about acid-base situations. You could use muriatic acid (which is just technical grade 20% hydrochloric acid) diluted 3 or 4 to 1. If you want to avoid the fumes and corrosivity you could also use vinegar (5% acetic acid). If you don't have a pH indicator you can just rinse with the acetic acid until the "greasy" feeling goes away. Sodium hydroxide solutions feel slick or greasy (its just your skin dissolving away). When the greasy feeling is gone the sodium hydroxide is neutralized (or your fingers have dissolved).

/// Frank ///

Hi Frank,

This is the answer to my question. Many thanks.

When we gonna pillage the coastal village again? Methinks the native in question is workin' too hard and needs some shrimp and rum! :)
Cheers, Hugh

[Hughman]

I know the "teak cleaner" works well for removing corrosion from metals. It's acid, after all. But... you have to use proprietary neutralizers and water it down in some instances. Oxalic acid (wood bleach) is just a crystaline power in a plastic tub. You can use it for all those same purposes and only mix what you need when you need it, in the strength you want. So much more convenient and a much, much less costly. Dirt cheap, in fact.

Different bleaches do different things. Peroxide, Clorine, Oxalic, and Lye can all be used (often sequentially) to achieve an effect. I'm trying to remove an accidental oil stain.

Out! Out! Damn Spot!, and all that! :)

[Jay Greer]

Here is a trick to remove oil and grease from wood grain. CMT makes a blade and router bit de-gumming solution called 2050. Using this solvent to make a paste with diatomaceous earth makes an absorbent poultice than can be smeared on the stain and vacuumed up when it dries. Several applications may be needed. The solvent is non toxic and will not harm skin, fabric or metal.
Jay

[Hughman]

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/ProductImages/routerbits/128275.jpg

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1288

CMT's new non-toxic, non-caustic cleaner gives you more cleaner for your money, and it does more for your cutting tools, too. Unlike other cleaners, CMT 2050 requires no rinsing after it has done its job of loosening even the hardest baked-on encrustations on your saw blades, router bits, shaper cutters, planer knives and other cutting tools. All you do is wipe the tool clean, leaving a thin film coating that protects against rust and corrosion. 2050 may be brushed off with a water rinse, which might be more convenient on high tooth count saw blades


Thanks, Jay! :)