Unisaw value

[TimH]

Goin to look at this in a few minutes:

Very nice condition,Older Delta tablesaw, runs smooth and powerful. Been in storage for about 15 years. 220 volt 1 H.P. 5.9 Amp 1725 rpm. Triple V belt drive. Or Make a reasonable offer


what do you think is a good price on it?

http://images.craigslist.org/010100010306011614200801220c1334f746d7a8fe3e0038c6 .jpg

http://images.craigslist.org/01020901041201030520080122b4a60e9b07f54c881b00ef5e .jpg

http://images.craigslist.org/01010701020501161020080122b0222abf59c85c810800532e .jpg

[Jim Ledger]

If the 1 HP number is right, I wouldn't bother with it, not strong enough. But, I've never heard of one with such a motor.

If you want to cut much plywood, a more modern fence is desirable. The old style fence is excellent for solid wood ripping but lacks the range to cut large plywood panels, so think about what you want to do with it.

Just a couple of thoughts. Maybe others can give you an idea of the market value.

[gary porter]

Tim, I think you could do a lot better,, I'd say $500 max.
Actually I don't think I'd want it as you would have quite a bit of work to make it a useful saw or at least one that fits the Unisaw name. Maybe some of the older folks here could clue you in on that one , I've not see n a Unisaw in green myself nor with a 1 hp motor. Even Delta Contractor models have 1-1/2 hp motors. The fence looks right but thats all. Probably just a very old one.
Gary

[Rob Stokes, N. Vancouver]

Start at 1/2 the price of a new equivalent saw and go from there. The 1HP motor will cut just about anything you want, but it's not a 3HP. The fence is old - plan on replacing it. It doesn't have the motor cover or the front dust door, so dust collection is going to take time to retrofit. Assuming the bearings etc are OK and the table's still flat, and the motor works etc, I'd look at $300 - $400. If you put another $400 into it you'd have a very nice saw :)

Rob

[Lew Barrett]

I agree with all above. You can buy a new 2 HP saw for 600-700 and have a modern fence. There's a great love of old equipment here on the forum, but new stuff is nice too. When they talk old iron, they mean Northfield (thanks Dave) and Oliver.

I have heard of 1HP Unisaws though. That's early fifties or earlier. Probably a real, honest 1HP though. But really, what's your time and a new fence worth? A new fence and rails will be $300 or more.

[TimH]

I just got back from looking at it. Its serial number L315.
I love older machines but I want something I can use too for building cabinets for my new house. Everything seems to work ok on this saw, but eventually I would want to upgrade the fence along with restoring the saw. It could be a real oldie...trying to find out something about it now...

[TimH]

it appears to be a 1950's model according to the OWWM web site.

They did come with 1hp motors back then:

"I am amused by the old original motor -- it is 9" in diameter in a big, heavy housing and is stamped "1 HP". Can you imagine how conservatively rated this must be? It is over fifty years old and is operating perfectly."

[Lew Barrett]

If you are willing to put the work in and add a fence later, this will be a nice saw. Don't pay too much though; if you pay $500 and add a new fence you'll be into it for $800 at least plus your labor; the limit of value for this item, and no real bargain. You shouldn't have to pay extra for an old saw. New fences really are great; I enjoy the Accufence on my saw. It's flawless and easy to adjust.

[TimH]

its a 1940.

I think I will offer $400 and later get a biesemeyer fence for it if he accepts.

[Battenkiller]

Cool old saw, but it might be a money pit. That motor may have been only rated at 1HP at the time but I can assure you it has gobs of torque...if it isn't fried. The 1725 RPM is a problem as you will be limited to about 3000 RPM. Not sure if you can get more speed with a different pulley setup, but I'd be leery of doing that without consulting Delta first.

My guess is that if you can get the saw for $300 or less you can probably make a great saw out of it for well under a grand.

[Jim Ledger]

Take a piece of dry 2" oak with you, about 6' long, and rip it.That should give you an indication of the motors capabilities. If the machine bogs down, imagine you had a pile of the stuff to rip, not just the one piece. You'd be popping the reset, waiting for it to cool, sloooowly feeding the wood.

Remember, changing the motor is not a feasible option, and paying $400. and adding a fence puts you in the price range of a lot of newer machines.

[Rob Stokes, N. Vancouver]

Tim - I bought a 1955 Boice Crane cabinet saw out of the back yard of a crack house in Surrey. I paid $20 and that was only because the neighbour told me he'd heard the 1.5hp Baldor motor run. Once home I stripped it, blasted the cabinet, built an electrolysis tank for the top and trunnions, sourced NOS bearings for it, added a motor cover, new fence and extension table. Rewired it, put a router table insert in the outfeed table, made a set of new zero-clearance inserts for it and shazamm! I've got a very functional rock solid saw no one else does. It's still got the 1.5HP Baldor too - but it's soon to be a 3hp Baldor.

Total cost was about $550 (including the purchase price :) ) and I've probably got 20 hours into it.

you may not have to go as far, but if you do, $400 is the absolute tops I'd pay.

Rob

http://www.robswoodworking.com/images/BC_saw/bc_xtnsn_3.jpg

[Ron Williamson]

A 3 hp "Unisaw motor"(Baldor IIRC) lists at somewhere north of $700,just so ya know.Add a mag. starter for $100+,then a new fence....
R

[Battenkiller]

Take a piece of dry 2" oak with you, about 6' long, and rip it.That should give you an indication of the motors capabilities. If the machine bogs down, imagine you had a pile of the stuff to rip, not just the one piece. You'd be popping the reset, waiting for it to cool, sloooowly feeding the wood.

Remember, changing the motor is not a feasible option, and paying $400. and adding a fence puts you in the price range of a lot of newer machines.

Those old motors have massive windings and don't overheat very easily. No reset buttons either, they are usually found on cheap motors (like my POS Performax thickness sander). I had an old band saw with one of those big motors on it rated at 1/4 HP. Once it was up to speed, I could cut several inches into a rip after I turned it off because there was so much inertia in the spinning armature. It will probably need the brushes replaced. Even if you replace the motor with a modern one (look for a good used one) that old 1 hp is a nice thing to have if you build something like a thickness sander that needs a motor with a lot of torque.

Bring a good carbide blade you are familiar with. That saw should be able to eat up 2" oak all day with a sharp blade. Be aware that that saw was used in a lot of cabinet shops in its day and may have been abused by doing exactly that for years on end.

$400 plus the cost of a good fence = the price of a new saw? What do you mean, a contractor saw? Even a crappy Jet cabinet saw is over $1500, a Unisaw over $2000, and a Powermatic 66 will be over $2500.

[Jim Ledger]

My suggestion was to test the saw, a reasonable precaution. And "newer" meant something less ancient, not necessarily "new".

If all is as you say, then it may be fine. I'd be careful though, and offer way less than $400.

[Bark]

I love the old Unisaws. As I'm sure you know, they're pretty popular over on the OWWM forum. Here's my 1959 vintage ... good luck!
http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL483/8634233/16009429/284606129.jpg

[TimH]

Well for $1000 you can get a grizzly:

http://grizzly.com/images/pics/jpeg288/g/g1023s.jpg

Im not partial to Chinese products though. I really love those old Unisaws, been wanting one for years. That or a powermatic 66 :-)

That Unisaw could be really nice restored, a conversation piece even. Its one of the oldest ones.

The guy wants $650 for it though and I wouldnt pay that.

I am probably touched enough to pay $400 though.

[Lew Barrett]

$400 plus the cost of a good fence = the price of a new saw? What do you mean, a contractor saw? Even a crappy Jet cabinet saw is over $1500, a Unisaw over $2000, and a Powermatic 66 will be over $2500.


My thinking was along Jim's lines. A good modern used saw, pre-Chinese construction, is not uncommon under $1000. At $650 this saw isn't good value. At $400 it might be, but it's still a project. If you want to cut wood rather do a project, that needs to be considered. Some people love the old tools for the same reasons that some people love the old boats; it's not simply a question of utility, and concerns esthetics and hobby value. But for cutting wood, a newer US made saw is going to be the equal of an old one, and have a better fence. Economics.

[goodbasil]

Those old, huge, heavy 1 hp rated motors would be better rated as mulepower. They are torquey as you can get. If your blades are sharp and alined you won't need anything larger.

[TimH]

Those old, huge, heavy 1 hp rated motors would be better rated as mulepower. They are torquey as you can get. If your blades are sharp and alined you won't need anything larger.

I wonder how much it would be to get it rebuilt...

[gary porter]

Tim, Just curious, is the saw a 10"?
For a saw that old which is pretty cool I might be inclined to clean it up and leave it original. The old fence though not what a new one would be, does work. If you can get it for the $400 go for it and consider using it just the way it was originally meant to. Nothing wrong with that. I have a friend with an old saw that has no fence , no nothing, he hand feeds pieces into it etc. Not me but hey it works for him.
You can always get another saw with more hp. Sometimes I'd like to have another say,,,hmm actually I do. Go for it.
Gary........:)

[TimH]

Tim, Just curious, is the saw a 10"?
For a saw that old which is pretty cool I might be inclined to clean it up and leave it original. The old fence though not what a new one would be, does work. If you can get it for the $400 go for it and consider using it just the way it was originally meant to. Nothing wrong with that. I have a friend with an old saw that has no fence , no nothing, he hand feeds pieces into it etc. Not me but hey it works for him.
You can always get another saw with more hp. Sometimes I'd like to have another say,,,hmm actually I do. Go for it.
Gary........:)

Its a 10"
I was thinking along the lines of just restoring it as-is too. If I get it I will see how usable the old fence is and maybe just leave it. Its not as though I will be using it on a daily basis. It will just be used for making cabinets for the house and other fun projects. :)

[gary porter]

Tim, that style fence has been on Delta saws for many years I think.
I had one on my contractors version and replaced it with their Unifence but I still have the old one. The new hot dog fences haven't always been around and I'd bet there have been plenty of boats , cabinets, houses, and furniture built using that old style. If you do decide to upgrade the fence you might hang on to the old one. I don't really recall having any problems with the old one just some of the features of the new one. We have a Unisaw here at my day job and it still has the old style on it.
Gary

[Yeadon]

I love the old Unisaws. As I'm sure you know, they're pretty popular over on the OWWM forum.

I'm enjoying this thread. I'd never considered anything other than a buying a fairly new contractor's saw (or something like it) off Craigslist.

As an aside, what is the OWWM forum?

[TimH]

http://www.owwm.com/Menu/new_logo.jpg


An excellent web site and forum that is devoted to information on the history, restoration and use of vintage woodworking machinery.

[TimH]

Here is my old bandsaw that sits in Michigan all alone and unloved.....Someday I will get it out here.

http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=826

[gary porter]

Cool saw Tim, do you know if the lower guides on that are original?
I have an old Silver Mfg. saw with no lower guide and I was going to fabricate one but after looking at some photos it appears that they didn't all have such. So, now I'm thinking of putting it in service without one or at least trying it. Seems it might be better with one but it didn't have one then perhaps it would work ok. Just curious.
Gary

[TimH]

Cool saw Tim, do you know if the lower guides on that are original?
I have an old Silver Mfg. saw with no lower guide and I was going to fabricate one but after looking at some photos it appears that they didn't all have such. So, now I'm thinking of putting it in service without one or at least trying it. Seems it might be better with one but it didn't have one then perhaps it would work ok. Just curious.
Gary

I cant really say anything about the guides. Its what it had on it when I bought it. They almost dont look original, but I cant say for sure.

[gert]

When I bought my 10" General in 78 I actualy had my heart set on a Unisaw because we had them at work. (I bought the General cause the top was shinier and it's Canadian) The Unisaw is a good saw. These things are NOT off shore; their built like tanks. You will want to replace the fence and perhaps get a 2 horse if you plan on ripping a lot of 2" oak. If its for plywood and detailing the 1 horse 220 is fine.

[Bark]

Tim:

If the seller is resistant to lowering the price because he thinks it's a "collectible" or has antique value or something along those lines, then you should point out that it's missing the dust door and "goose egg" motor cover - two fairly significant hits (but fun for you to keep an eye out for on ebay, etc. as you get around to restoring it) ...

Ben

[TimH]

I looked for the motor cover on Ebay. Reproductions are $300 !

The dust door will be tricky to find too I am sure.

[Bob Cleek]

It's pretty hard to hurt an old Unisaw, but do take a look at the bearings (or more accurately, a listen to the bearings.) I'd say the price is a bit high. First, if there are missing parts, these can be obtained, sometimes even from the manufacturer, but they will be amazingly pricey. Second, take a good look at the motor. Swapping them out isn't all that easy and it may be hard to find one that fits properly. Check that the blade is properly aligned. This is just an adjustment, but tricky, nonetheless.

This saw has a short table. If you want to upgrade to handle 4x8 sheet material (and you'll be handling a lot if you want to make cabinetry), as mentioned, you will be putting maybe three to five hundred bucks into a new fence and rails. I'm partial to the Unifence (as is Norm!) because it is so much easier to clamp jigs onto and such. The Beastie-myer is smooth and accurate, but much less flexible in that regard. Also more expensive and the Unifence is a sturdier hunk of metal. I suppose the Beastie is arguably "more accurate" than the Unifence, but I've never trusted a fence ruler and always measure from the blade when setting up anyway. The saw pictured has the older Unifence design, which is the same as the newer one mechanically. I've seen them last forever in production shop environments, so there should be no worry there.

If you get the longer fence, you'll want to put an extension table and legs on it, and probably a roller platform. The same goes for an offcut table extension to give you some depth when cutting sheet. These will set you back a few hundred more, whether you build your own or not. It's nice to incorporate a router table in the extension, which allows you to use the saw fence on the router as well. This is where the Unifence excells, since it can be turned around to best advantage, a router fence attached, and even run forward or backwards and so on. The manufactured roller bases are worth the money at about three hundred. There's no point in trying to build your own. I'm guessing Delta's extension table legs are probably a hundred bucks more as well.

That said, you can pick up a nearly new long table Unisaw with more horsepower for as little as seven hundred and fifty. (I scored mine from Craigslist. Two years old, long table with legs, hardly used, and it came with three good blades and a dado set.) "Old 'arn" is great, but the Unisaw is about the only currently built product out there (along with the Cannuk General stuff) that compares to the old stuff.

It may well be a great utility saw for a couple of hundred bucks. However, if you are thinking of paying four hundred for it, and then upgrading, you'd be better off watching the want ads and Craigslist and so on. You'll probably be able to find a newer model with less potential for problems, more horsepower, and a larger table for what you'd end up paying to turn this one into something equivalent. And remember... the older the model, the harder to find parts. This is a relatively minor issue with a Unisaw, which has been in production since the late thirties, but all it takes is a part with one little design change and you'll find yourself going crazy, to the poorhouse, or both! (While not a problem with Unisaws as far as I know, remember that a lot of "old 'arn" is full of babbit bearings! You don't want to go there if you can find the same model machine with Timkin bearings, which became common later on.)

[TimH]

Good advice Bob. Thanks. I am still thinking about it.

Sounds like you got a fantastic deal on yours.

There is a Unifence setup on Ebay for $75 right now.