fixing prudence

[Stephen Hunter]

Hello all. Well after being a long time lurker and sometimes poster you'll be hearing a bit more from me from now on. I'm adding one to the list of vessels under reconstruction currently on the forum. I've just purchased a Francis Herreshoff Prudence. Not the second design of that name or the H-23 but the original Prudence design PP 139 Sensible Cruising Designs. She's plum stemmed, 22' on deck, sloop rigged, keel- centerboard. She was locally built (Prince Edward Island) 15 years ago. She's built using local wood. Strip planked and edge nailed, fir on tamarack, oak stem, rock maple keel, ply deck and house and oh yea galvanized fastenings throughout no glue. Now I know that's got some of you shaking your heads but that's the way they build em here. Here's a little background on her current condition. Dry! Been on the hard for five years. I can see daylight through all the strip planking. There's a ½ " gap at the stem to keel joint and gaps at the transom planks. Planking looks pretty good except for two small areas. Toe rail and cockpit combing is toast. Frames, floors, centerboard case and logs are good. Keel and deadwood is fine. Needs a new deck. Deck beams seem to be o-k from what I can see for now. Hard to say about the cockpit sole could be dicey. Mast is good but is in serious need of scraping and varnish. Sails are like new. Obviously I've not paid a lot for her. I have a plan of action in mind but I'd like to here from you all first. The biggest question is going to be to sheath or not to sheath, would it be less of a job to add a cold molded layer of veneers over the hull. My biggest concern is all those galvanized edge nails. Anyway have at it but remember I'm in love so be gentle. Thanks Stephen

[Ian McColgin]

Well, I'll be looking in the book, a glass of the highland's finast in hand, at about 1915 when I get home.

Meanwhile - edge nailed with 1/2" gaps !!??!!

Ah - reread - just at the large members.

If the movement hasn't shriven the strips off the frames to any degree - a bit of thumping will tell you - I think you should fix the obvious, calk lightly and goober with something soft and disposable, like roof tar in the big gaps, and ease her over the side to see what happens.

Fond as I am of wood/epoxy sheathing, I don't think I'd sheath anything that has ferrous fastenings buried in ways that cannot be gotten out - trouble sooner or later.

[Scott Rosen]

I'm with Ian. First thing I'm going to do when I get home is look up the design in the book.

I wouldn't be in such a hurry to sheath her. If she can be made to float, I'd want to check out her condition wet before doing anything that permanent. Maybe there are builders and surveyors who can tell everything about a boat by looking at her on the hard, dry for five years, but not me. I'd get a good supply of Slickseam and put her in the water, keeping her in the sling until she takes up--or not. Then do your assessment.

[bugeye]

hi,
Sounds like a lovely boat. please post some pictures if you can. But most importantly, don't sheath her.On the Chesapeake, the watermen call that "putting her in a coffin" and I think that's just about what it is. It will swell up again. With light fir planking, it shouldn't even take too long. I'd try to swell her with a soaker hose on the outside, and wet blankets on the inside. Then putty up what did't already close up, and then launch her, and have more pumps on board than you hope you need. I might also add that I say all of this with great confidence, but I too am concerned with the task of getting my boat to float again in the spring. Maybe if you saw the gaps between my boats planking you'd feel better about yours!