"CPES" the best???

[EuroTx]

Is CPES™ "Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer"
the best, or the most expensive Sealer, (Filler)?
Are there alternative ways you can treat bad wood using epoxy resins?
What can I use for the final coating for the bottom, & the rest off the Boat?
What about the idear to use "Rhino" below the waterline.? :D
Thanks Eric

[EuroTx]

Here some photos of my Boat... :cool:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/txvideographer/my_photos?urlhint=actn,del%3as,1%3af,0

[Katherine]

Oh dear, duck, INCOMING!!!! :D

Euro, you just took a headlong dive into one of the boards great arguments.

[ 01-16-2006, 05:53 PM: Message edited by: Katherine ]

[pcford]

Enthusiasm for the product is nowhere a great as you will see with the four edges of the screen you are looking at right now. Certainly not among the professional boat builders that I know.

There are other things more important. Some would say that it is impossible to build a boat well without it. This is nonsense.

There are those that will beat the drum for the stuff.

Shrug.

[Wild Wassa]

CPES is only as good as the thorough removal of rot, prior to sealing timber with it, then it works well. A circular wire brush on the end of a drill will reveal all, then CPES is applied. Be ruthless when it comes to removing rot. Don't skimp on the use of CPES, when using it on old timber.

Any rot remaining (after removing all you can) will be encased in CPES. CPES forms a matrix around the remaining rot and as Smith and Co (basically) say, "CPES encases the rot ... depriving the rot of nutrients ... which stops the rot."

I used CPES on my boat and I couldn't be happier. After seeing your photos, the rot looked similar. CPES is not a filler nor an epoxy glue. Smith and Co make 'Fill-It' for filling the smaller missing bits, if you want to stay with Smith and Co's recommended system.

Warren.

[ 01-17-2006, 03:02 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

[RodB]

As Warren above...
Pretty straight forward... cut out the bad wood, slather everything with CPES to soak into end grain around hole... repair with good wood and epoxy and fiberflass cloth, prime and paint.

I won't get into the debate over CPES, do some homework on it and read the Wood Restoration study and the posts on this forum plus Smith and company's literature. Make up your own mind. Personally, I like CPES and plan to keep it in the arsenal of tools/products for boat repair, especially in scenarios where there is some rotten wood. I have used it in new construction for thru decks and thru hulls, where I sealed the end grain with CPES, then triple coated same with epoxy. Just some good insurance.

RB

[ 01-16-2006, 06:06 PM: Message edited by: RodB ]

[Steve Lansdowne]

If you use the search function thingy you'll have hours of reading to do on this topic!

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

What Smith and Co. say about CPES is just generic biology. All microbes, including those that eat wood, need water and air. Cut off either on and they are caput. But any epoxy will do that if well applied.
"Treating bad wood"? This takes us into a problem area. How bad is bad and where is the wood located? If you want something that can be slathered on that will make rotten wood not so rotten there isn't any of that. If the rot involves anything structural on the boat, like the joint beween the transom and the planking, the damage has to be taken care of thru' traditional repair techniques. Once the damaged wood is replaced using convetional techniques CPES or any other epoxy will seal it from most, if not all, water penetration.

[WoodenBNut]

Heh Tex,
I just noticed that there is an engine for sale on eBay that looks like it is identical to yours for not much money. If you want a spare and the price is right, maybe you should consider it?
Just go to eBay - Boats - Motors and have a look - I think it was under Owens / 327 or maybe just search on 327. FYI

[EuroTx]

Thanks for the Tip, but my engine running fine, is reebild 1995. I have and will take care off the Boat first. Eric

[WoodenBNut]

Tex,
Yeah. I am a spare boat parts Nut/Junkie. I always have a garage full of at least one spare of everything. Nuts, I agree. It's just my habit that I can't kick. Like the 4 Paragon H7 trannys that I have(2 in the boat & 2 spares). Yeah, Nuts.
Have a good time restoring that boat. And yeah, I like CPES and use it a lot in wooden boat restoration. Its also a great sealer before varnishing and makes hull paint stick like mad.

[JimConlin]

CPES was initially developed to as a treatment for architectural trimwork that had gotten punky. Being a heavily thinned epoxy, it penetrates such mush more deeply than other more viscous products and is reported to restore adequate strength for architectural trim.
I have never seen the results of any laboratory tests of the structural properties (tensile strength and all that) of CPES treated wood. The Gougeon Brothers, makers of WEST System epoxies, have published test results which indicate that the structural and sealing properties of their epoxy are seriously degraded when the epoxy is significantly thinned. Until I saw such figures for CPES, i'd not use it in a structural application or view it as being impermeable.
There are competent people whose opinions vary on the value of CPES as sealant/primer under paint and varnish.

[ 01-17-2006, 02:33 PM: Message edited by: JimConlin ]