Help with coating new interior teak veneer

[TimBB]

Hi all. I'm a newbie here, although I have lurked for a while. I'm redoing an old Sportfish. I'm done with the outside of the boat, and now I'm redoing the interior. I'am applying new teak veneer over plywood. My question is the best way to finish the teak. Do I need to apply a sanding sealer to the new teak veneers before I varnish?

[Mrleft8]

Probably be a good idea.....

[TimBB]

Has anyone just used teak oil on interior wood vs. varnishing?

[C. Ross]

Sure, it looks really nice. Last winter I oil-finished a couple of helm chairs made of solid teak. Oil looks best with a rubbed effect, IMO, and looks muddy and opaque if you just brush it on. Don't seal before applying. At a minimum brush on oil and then rub off excess with bronze wool or wet sandpaper. If you want it gorgeous rub in a couple of coats of oil letting the dust and oil mix fill in the pores. It isn't easier than varnish to do the first time, but maintenance is easier - you just clean and rub in a new coat of oil.

"Teak oil" can be lots of things, usually oil mixed with some amount of varnish. If you want it shiny, use teak oil. If you want matte, use pure tung oil thined with a little turps or mineral spirits.

[TimBB]

Thanks C.Ross,

I have been doing some samples in the basement with some scraps. If I want to try the tung oil, about what % should I thin it. I don't want it too shiny.
Also you say clean it and reapply. I would assume on the interior it doesn't dry out and gray like exterior teak does. Because cleaning it like you would exterior teak would not be an option. How are you talking about cleaning?

[Jim Ledger]

I once had a gallon of what the can described as "oil-varnish" made by DuPont. Apparently, not available to the general public, it was given to me by Viking Yachts to do some work on one of their new boats. At the time it was their standard interior finish for solid teak and teak veneer. Very easy to use, wipe it on, let it sit and wipe off the excess. Two or three coats gave a beautiful, durable, low-luster finish. Better than plain oil, as it had a hard surface, yet very easy to apply, unlike varnish.

I've been looking for something similar ever since.

[Mrleft8]

I wouldn't recomend oiling veneer. Veneers are very thin (obviously) and an oil finish depends on the oil soaking into the wood to provide the minimal amount of protection that it does. A marine enviroment is probably the harshest enviroment that you can put a piece of wood aside from a fire place.
Use Zinnsser's seal coat for your first 2 applications, sanding with 320 grit paper between coats. Sand with 320 again and apply a quality spar varnish...several coats sanding between coats. Allow a minimum of 24 hours drying time between coats. If you're looking for a lower gloss finish, go over the final coat with 0000 steel wool after it's set for a week or so. That'll knock the shine off it.

[Mrleft8]

I once had a gallon of what the can described as "oil-varnish" made by DuPont. Apparently, not available to the general public, it was given to me by Viking Yachts to do some work on one of their new boats. At the time it was their standard interior finish for solid teak and teak veneer. Very easy to use, wipe it on, let it sit and wipe off the excess. Two or three coats gave a beautiful, durable, low-luster finish. Better than plain oil, as it had a hard surface, yet very easy to apply, unlike varnish.

I've been looking for something similar ever since.
Hope's makes Tung oil varnish that works just like your DuPont stuff. I still wouldn't use it on veneer.

[TimBB]

Thanks Mrleft8,

I hear what your saying about the veneer, plus it's paper backed. Maybe the oil would release the veneer from the paper over time.

I put a coat of the Zinsser Sealcoat on last night it looks really nice. almost looks like it's oiled teak.

I have some interlux spar varnish I'm going to test once I'm done with the sealcoat. What about a semi-gloss or satin polyurethane over the sealcoat to keep that color, would that be ok? I' m guessing the varnish will darker it some. I want to keep it as light as possible.

[Mrleft8]

I think you'll do better by using spar varnish and knocking the shine off of it. Polyurethanes are notoriously tough, but not terribly attractive in my opinion. Also a satin finish will cloud the grain somewhat.... It's solids in the finish that cause the "flat" look, but they also will block the view...so to speak.
Spar varnish, and urethane will give the approximate same amount of "amber" tint to the Teak, assuming it's oil based urethane. But over time the sun and exposure to air will darken the Teak more than the finishes anyway.

[Hwoodworks]

A penetrating oil finish will tend to soak into the wood and break down the glue / adhesive over time. (not all glues) Most veneers are 1/42” before sanding that is not much penetration. As it penetrates it makes the wood just a little translucent, this can make it look uneven in colour where it has been over sanded.
I agree a good sealer and top coats of varnish will last a while longer without breaking down, and will not have to be applied every year. I try to use a brushing liquid by the same manufacture, really makes the finish lay down flat. The look of solid wood with hand rub tung oil is something special to see, and looks like nothing else. Oh stir that can well and often.

[TimBB]

Thanks Again Mrleft8, I really appreciate the help. One more question, Should I be sanding between coats of the spar varnish with 320 or a different grit.

[Mrleft8]

320 is what I use. Make sure each coat is completely dry before starting your next one. If the sanding dust is white and powdery, it's dry, if it clogs the paper, or you see little brownish squigglies, or "worms" it's not dry enough.

[Paul Girouard]

If it's inside the boat I'd say use water borne Varnish like Daly's Aqua Spar , it has a amber tint, and UV protection. Dries very quickly , with a box fan and a little heat you could do 2 or 3 coats in a day instead of ONE.

They say you should wait a week to 10 days to put a water borne over a oil , but I've "pushed" that down to a couple of days with NO bad results , Knock on wood / head :D

Doesn't stink as bad a oil / thinner based product either , another added benefit , you get to keep a few brain cells to kill with beer!:) Or what ever your poison happens to be. :confused:

And yes you'd sand LIGHTLY , 400 grit , between coats and tack cloth off the chaff before re coating. One mistake folks new to water bornes do is sand to much on the first couple of coats , water borne sand easier than polys, varnish , and / or lacquers so a LIGHT-er touch is required.

[C. Ross]

I agree with comments about not oiling veneer on a boat as a first choice. If you were absolutely determined to do it, you'd want to renew at least annually.

I you ever want to try it on solid teak, dilute first coats about 50% with turps, up to pure tung on last coats.