Sealant

[chrisk]

I just replaced my jib cam cleats with some spinlock cam cleats.

What kind of sealant should I use under the cam cleat to keep moisture out ?

I know I don't want any adhesive so in the future I can get it off if I want to.

[sandingblock]

You're probably going to meet two schools of thought on this forum regarding this sort of thing.

1: Oil based, Dolphinite or Interlux bedding compound.

2: New stuff: 3M 5200, or various other concoctions.

You probably don't want to hear this but if the fitting is fairly well exposed (like a cam-cleat) then I think 5200 is the way to go. You will need need piano wire or other tricks to get it back off, lets say it's twice as hard to remove. But you will only need to remove it a quarter as often.

Jonny.

[Bob Perkins]

If you want something to ever come apart w/o destruction - don't use 5200. While many say it is not permanent - just consider it to be.

Bedding compound is good. Lifecaulk is a good sealant that is not a silicone.
http://images.westmarine.com/full/105114.jpg

3M 4200 is supposed to be a sealant and not an adhesive - and it works. But like 5200, it seems to get everywhere and is difficult to clean up and work neat. Lifecaulk is much easier to work with, it is less sticky and doesn't end up everywhere.

Good luck.
Bob

[kc8pql]

I use 4200 on things that may see cyclical loading, like chainplates, Dolfinite on everything else.

[Lew Barrett]

Sikaflex is a good halfway product too. 221 is the less aggressive of the line. If you use 5200, figure it's permanent because it is an adhesive.

[sv Lorelei]

A caveat on using 4200 is that it tends to degrade with UV exposure. I believe 3M came out with a a 4200 UV a few years ago that works much better where exposed to prolonged direct sunlight.

[SaltyD from BC]

Sikaflex is a good halfway product too. 221 is the less aggressive of the line. If you use 5200, figure it's permanent because it is an adhesive.

What Lew said. Even the more aggressive 229 (I think it is) will come off without wrecking stuff. Have had good luck with both including under water with 229..

[kc8pql]

A caveat on using 4200 is that it tends to degrade with UV exposure. I believe 3M came out with a a 4200 UV a few years ago that works much better where exposed to prolonged direct sunlight.

That's true, as it is with any polyurethane. In most bedding situations the exposure is limited to just thin edge that's exposed and is a yellowing of the material. It takes years for it to degrade enough to cause any problem. By then it's probably time to rebed anyway.

[Thorne]

As recommended on this forum, I use Vulkem116 instead of 4200 -- very similar, stays flexi, can't be sanded, can be removed with a wire or a lot of effort -- and cheaper.


Vulkem 116
Product Description:
Vulkem 116 is a one-part moisture curing, gun grade polyurethane sealant. Vulkem 116 is durable, flexible and offers excellent performance in moving joints. Vulkem 116 does not require a primer on most construction materials.

Basic Uses:
Vulkem 116 is an excellent general purpose sealant designed for use in precast, masonry, window frame perimeters and similar types of construction joints. Vulkem 116 is suitable for continual immersion in water. Vulkem 116 is designed for exterior and interior use.

[Songololo]

Has anyone had experience with Sikalfex 291 (also Polyurethane based) or Sikalastomer 710 (Butyl rubber)? How different from 221? Would these also be suitable for below the waterline e.g. in bedding rudder fittings?

[Songololo]

Took delivery of a tube of Sikalastomer 710 (Butyl rubber based) sealant today. It will be used to rebed hardware above and below (rudder pintel) the waterline.

Does anyone have any special tips and tricks for applying, limiting mess, cleaning up etc?

It doesn't need the use of a primer before applying. The data sheet can be found here (http://www.sika.com.au/cmi/pdfs/TDS_SikaLastomer710.pdf). Other Sika marine products summarized here (http://www.sika.com.au/cmi/marine_products.htm).