View Full Version : Clinker/lapstrake hull repair for "New Blossom" (John Leather)
Scots gaffer
05-28-2008, 05:20 AM
I am about to commence the repair of a 50 year old 20' gaffer which has been out of the water for some 20+ years,kept under cover & seems generally sound (we'll see how sound when she takes to the water!).
The most obvious repair is the missing larch planking from about 1/4 of the starboard side. The boat's shape has been kept reasonable by the ribs and the deck & cabin structure. I have the larch (Siberian) planking now dressed down to the required 3/8" and am ready to start ..... but dont wish to muck it up.
Do any of you good folk know of books,articles,sites that I could refer to/purchase (I have searched to no avail) for guidance in repair,not build,please? Perhaps,since joining this website, I now have access to WB archives - I'll have a look.
Many thanks
Jim Ledger
05-28-2008, 05:52 AM
John Leathers book on clinker boatbuilding would be an obvious place to start if you don't already have it. I'm sure plenty ofother recommendations will be along shortly.
How about posting a few pictures of this interesting boat.
Thorne
05-28-2008, 08:34 AM
Location? More info, please -- type of wood and condition of frames for starters.
Here's how to post photos on this forum:
First - don't attach photos. Most web forums don't allow it, and space
limitations are the main reason why.
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somewhere. You have a free website area with any paid ISP's email account,
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the image displays.
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If unsure of the procedure, test first by pasting the image URL into the
window of a web browser.
charlie.hussey
05-28-2008, 01:43 PM
I can recommend 'The Boat Repair Manual' by George Buchanan. It covers repairs to clinker framing and planking in some detail.
I got my second hand copy through amazon.co.uk for about a tenner for an ex-library hardback.
Post some photos (please). We really like to see what people are getting into!
Scots gaffer
05-29-2008, 09:42 AM
Hi, Jim,Thorne and Charlie. Many thanks for your prompt help.
I have John Leather's book - somewhere safe (but I can't remember where). I also purchased from him a set of plans for "Peregrine" a few years ago also somewhere safe,probably with the book.
I will put some fotos up,when I've interpreted Thorne's advice. And I have ordered George Buchanan's book. Thank you all.
Perhaps some recent history would help. I purchased her for a modest sum from two brothers in Wishaw,south of Glasgow,not knowing what type she was. (I'm in Edinburgh on the East coast of Scotland.) Some research showed that she was designed in south-east England and built in Boston,Lincs by "Reg Keighthly & Sons" in the late 50's/early 60's,based on working boat lines. I travelled to Boston and traced one of the "Sons",Ray,who recognised the fotos I had with me instantly,for he built her! He was most helpful but sadly passed away a few years ago. Other pressing matters have intervened but I can see some space in my schedule up ahead so I'm going for it. Our climate is cool and moist (too bloody cool and moist) and she's under cover in a small well-ventilated workshop built to take her and with a pit to take her drop keel.
I dont know how much space you are allowed on a thread so - more later.
Charles
charlie.hussey
07-24-2008, 04:36 PM
I'm now back in Edinburgh (Scotland that is) and dropped in on The Gaffer to inspect 'Peregrine', his New Blossom, that is awaiting (imminent) restoration. I took a few photos and post them here on his behalf. They are hosted on Flickr so you can get higher resolution photos from my photostream if you are interested.
I found it impressive how much space John Leather managed to create on such a small boat. The original heads, with a 'Royal Doulton' porcelain bowl are quite, for a boat of this size, private. The sidedecks, raised back to the cockpit, combined with a doghouse seems to work surprising well on a 19' "trailer sailer".
I'm not sure about the backbone but the larch planking on oak timbers was, where it has not been hacked away by the previous owner, in reasonable condition, with just a few existing planks needing replacement. The mahogany sheer strake has, however, fared pretty badly. There are a few timbers to be replaced as well but as the deck is totally trashed and will need to come off this should not be too much of a problem.
One unusual thing pointed out by The Scots Gaffer (TSG) (he's also called Charlie by the way....) is that where the planks have been removed on the starboard side it is clear that there is a layer of putty all across the lands - far too much to have been inserted retrospectively. If the whole boat has had the lands bedded using (by now) 60 year old putty then there may be a wee problem. Has anyone else come across this practice?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3028/2699531548_16a8c2d064.jpg
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/%22http://www.flickr.com/photos/charliehussey/2699531548/%22%20title=%22Port%20side%20-%20fairly%20intact%20by%20Charlie%20Hussey,%20on%2 0Flickr%22%3E%3Cimg%20src=%22http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3028/2699531548_16a8c2d064.jpg%22%20width=%22500%22%20h eight=%22375%22%20alt=%22Port%20side%20-%20fairly%20intact%22%20/%3E
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3264/2698713885_d6a23752cb.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3114/2698712481_11f7ecfea3.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3185/2699527352_cc246c58c0.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3146/2699524842_53aa885b4e.jpg
Another issue that TSG is (sensibly) concerned about is the mast support structures. Two (very nice looking) laminated deck beams are all, at present, that are available to support the deck stepped mast. Anyone else out there with experience of deck compression loads on a New Blossom?
woolleyhatter
07-27-2008, 04:43 AM
Hi John
Repairing a clinker/lapstrake is fairly straight forward in that you are required to cut out the offending piece, not at 90 degrees, but at about 45 degrees on all the visible sides.
The idea is that you replace it with a piece that sits onto the bevelled sides and thus allowing the bonding/glue to set well.
The scarf joint stops the water pressure pushing the repair back out as would be the case if it was a butt joint when you finally get her back in.
"i think" i've explained it ok without a picture, but if not i will attached a photo of one i've done if you want.
Regards
Clencher
07-29-2008, 01:29 AM
Bedding plank lands in putty is not a practice I am aware of in the UK. I fact I suspect that if this was done when the boat was built it is more likely to have been white lead paste, not putty – so be careful and use a mask when scraping or sanding it. Plank lands were often painted prior to fitting since it is impossible to get paint on the land surfaces after fitting.
You are over the first major hurdle if you have some larch boat planking available.
From your description and the photos, the first thing I would do is replace the planking that has already been cut out. If you have the old planking and can use it as patterns for the new planking all well and good, if not I would template the new planking with some thin ply. Join new planking to old with lipped scarphs about 4 or 5 inches long. These are a fiddle to cut in the boat but it can be done. Do lots of try-fitting to get the scarphs right and also pay a lot of attention to getting the bevels right on the plank lands. If you don’t put enough bevel you may put in stresses which result in the plank splitting along the line of the nails, if you put too much bevel you might get leaks. Bed the scarphs in paint and fix them at the lip with turned copper tacks.
Like this:
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL370/9115650/16752884/327748800.jpg
This is a close up of one of a number I did in about 1974 when replacing damaged planks, and they are good to this day.
Work from the bottom towards the sheer and replace the sheer strake last. Leave all the timbers (ribs/frames) in place when you are replacing the planking – even if they will be need to be replaced later. Scarph between the timbers and stagger the scarphs. Steam in any new timbers needed after the planking repairs.
I can’t comment on deck structures but I would leave as much of the deck in place as possible when working on the planking and timbers. The deck/deck beams will be holding the boat together and helping to keep its shape.
Good luck with your project - looks a lovely boat.
John Meachen
07-30-2008, 05:40 PM
I just caught up with this thread;I wouldn't be too surprised if the bedding paste between the planks turned out to be Sealastic or something similar.The colour would be the same as putty and with the oil dried out the texture would be close.I would have been less surprised if the planks were bedded on stodgy paint or varnish.
Jay Greer
07-30-2008, 06:22 PM
I tuned in on this one too. Fastinating project! I look forward to seeing the progress!
Jay
Larks
07-30-2008, 06:38 PM
All the very best of luck and enjoyment with the project Charles, looking forward to watching progress and hearing details of how you put her back together.
cheers
Greg
chainyank
11-29-2008, 06:29 PM
Any news on the plank replacement front? Getting ready to dig into my boats hull.... I am looking for commiserating forbears I guess!
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