Bulwark Bending

[Ronin NW]

I think I have have a repair plan, but there are lingering questions, so I thought I'd run it by y'all.

The result of previous lingering rot and bad repair job (prior to my ownership) has prompted me to remove a bunch of railcap and about six feet of bulwark on Ronin's starboard quarter, just aft the mizzen shrouds just past the aft edge of the house. I'd like to get this piece back in before the weather makes it more cumbersome and freshwater starts doing more damage.

The bulwark in question is white oak and, as I said, about six feet long with the pre-existing hook scarf at one end and a hand-cut 12" scarf at the other. Bulwark is 5" high and 2" wide at the base, tapering to 1.5" at the top. The required bend would take the center about 5" out of line with the ends (if that's a logical way to describe it), as well as a slight bend in the sheer forcing the center of this piece downward 1/2" or so. My first thought (and suggestion by a shipwright, but only in passing), was that the curve was gentle enought be cold-bent into place, but I'm not sure about that 2" thickness, seems like an awful lot. Everyone on the dock is saying to laminate and epoxy up a curved piece, but I'd rather not put something like that on an otherwise epoxy-free boat (yes, I'm a blind idealist). I could put a steam box right on the dock (she's in the water) and go that route.

I'm pretty sure I can block and clamp the bulwark to the cockpit coaming to get the inboard bend, but all I can come up with to pull it downw against the covering board would be a come-along under the keel to the opposite bulwark (or maybe use a halyard for purchase on the opposite side... but that's a lot of friction at the keel).

SO, how do you think it'll make the bend? Is the clamping possible/feasible? Am I making this more difficult than it should be (please tell me an easier way ;) )

[pcford]

White oak is dicey to glue. Might work; might not.

I would steam the piece. Olsen's has bending oak. However, not sure if they would have it this time of year. Availability is restricted during summer.

Might bend cold...but why bother.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Even seasoned oak should steam enough to get this bend - but it's a big piece to steam. Allow several hours - the good news, of course, being that it will hold its heat far better once out of the steam box.

Needless to say, I'd clamp it hot and leave it to cool before fastening, which allows for any final adjustments.

If you plan to finish it bright, beware of iron clamp feet marking the wood when hot.

[Torna]

Yes, the downward bend seems to be more the issue to me. If I read you right, the piece is 5" tall and 6' long. 1/2 down deflection at the center of that stiff chunk sounds like a lot.
I'd tend to saw the deck profile. Start with a chunk 6" tall, steam the lateral bend allowing it to be 1/2" above the deck in the center. Then with it still exactly in position mark it with a 1/2" scribing guage on both sides. Hand plane down to the scribed lines and it should fit the deck perfectly.
Then transfer height measurements from the old piece and plane the top down to match.

At least that's how I'd approach it.
-leif

[Thad]

I think you need to fasten blocks to the sheer plank carrying the flair of the planks so you can spile and pattern the piece, take bevels for the deck fit and then bend it to shape.