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Todd D
07-06-2008, 04:47 PM
The 1936 power boat I am working on has had a couple of generations of earlier repair work done on it.

The area under the engine, in particular is a real mess. In that area there are partial sisters that were put in at some time when the engine was in place. The extend from the sheer to where the engine beds, which I have removed, were, but not under the engine. Those partial sisters were supplemented in 1995 when the original engine was replaced. The supplemental partial frames extend under the engine and extend about 8" outboard of the ends of the earlier partial sisters. Between these partial frames are the badly deteriorated original frames and the original floors. This picture shows the situation.

http://www.todddunnmicroyachts.com/tortuga/no_beds-2.JPG

Since I took that picture last fall I have removed the floors and the rotted parts of the original frames. My original plan was to laminate new wood in to replace the parts of the original frames that I have removed. I am now thinking that it might be a better idea to remove the short partial sisters that were under the engine and laminate new wood into the older, but sound, partial sisters that run up to the sheer, thus making them into complete frames. If I do that I will be left with quite a few fastener holes in the planking where the original frames were (fastened with iron boat nails - now badly corroded) and the short partial sisters are (fastened with bronze screws).

My question is, "What is the best way to fill the left over fastener holes in the planks?

What I am thinking of doing is to drill the holes out to 3/8" and epoxy dowels into the holes. The planks are douglas fir. Would it be OK to use the hardwood dowels commonly available at hardware stores, or should I make up some douglas fir dowels?

TD

Todd D
07-06-2008, 04:49 PM
Addendum - The engine I removed was a Chrysler Crown M47. It weighed nearly 1,000 lbs with the reversing gear. I will be putting in a 44-55 hp diesel that weighs only 450 lbs or so. Consequently, I don't need all the extra frames in the engine area to support the much lighter engine.

jackster
07-06-2008, 05:24 PM
Todd,
Lots of work there, both done and to do, nice job.
I'm confused as to your frame repair schedule, but that's nothing new for me.
As far as your plugging the old fastening holes goes, I would make bungs of douglas fir, and epoxy them in so you can align the grain.
best of luck with your project.

TerryLL
07-06-2008, 10:24 PM
One method of filling the nail holes is to use "spikes" made from western red cedar. Make them about two inches long and with a cross section just a bit larger than the nail holes. You can take the time to make them roughly round with a small plane, but it's not really necessary. Dip the end in your favorite waterproof glue and pound them in. WRC is soft enough to mash tightly into the hole, and will expand slightly to make a perfect waterproof plug. Trim them off with a fine-tooth Japanese saw. Screw holes should be plugged with the same wood as the hull planking, so the plugs sand down just like the planking. Align the grain of the plug in the same direction as the grain of the plank. Plastic resin glue works fine for plugs and WRC spikes and has a nice long pot life, but epoxy will do the job too, and is a bit better at gap filling.

would work
07-12-2008, 08:37 AM
Nice job... as far as your holes in the planks I would recommend using Doug Fir (same material as planks) same swell rate etc.