Building Peterson's "Susan" #8

[RodB]

This is the continuation of the Thread on "Building Peterson's Schooner "Susan"...this is the 8th separate thread in a continuing series.

Here are the links to previous segments on this thread....

Thread #1 First thread (Images of "Susan" sister ship and basic parameters...set up of strongback and frames)

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11087&highlight=Susan

Thread #2
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51863&highlight=Susan

Thread #3
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58754&highlight=Building+Susan

Thread #4

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62936&highlight=Building+Susan

Thread #5

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70274&highlight=Building+Susan

Thread #6

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77658

Thread #7

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82391

The decks on this Susan will be covered with teak... the first step will be to glass the entire deck surface with 6 oz cloth and epoxy. This will provide a solid waterproof barrier for the deck that underlies the teak... and the teak will be installed without fasteners as to maintain a superlative moisture barrier for the decks. The edges of the fiberglass cloth will wrap up the vertical sides of the cabin and the bulwarks... thus the entire top surface of the hull will be protected.

The entire deck surface was sanded with 80 grit prior to glassing. Here, Bob is vacuuming the deck surface after sanding.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/vacummingdeckspriortoglassingbob-72.jpg

Here the clean sanded vacuumed and wiped off foredeck...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/foredecksanded-72.jpg

Next, the cloth is fitted and laid in place.... tape is used where needed ...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/bobglassingforedeck-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/bowglassdryfitbest-72.jpg

Stern dry fitted with fiberglass... ready for epoxy...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/FGdrkyfitsterndeck-72.jpg

Next... the first coat of epoxy is applied with a squeege totally wetting out the fabric...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/foredeckglasswetout-72.jpg

continued...below...

RodB

[RodB]

Here the fiberglass is wetted out ...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/foredeckwetout1stcoat-72.jpg

Note the cloth is wrapped over the fillet and then is pushed into the corner at the bulwark... the inside and outside surface of the bulwark will be glassed later...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/foredeckwetoutcloseup2-72.jpg

Here, the stern deck is wetted out... Note, a china bristle brush is used to dab the epoxy saturated cloth into the corners and curved fillet.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/wetoutsterndeckandsidedeck-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/sterndeckwetoutandsidedeck3-72.jpg

Here the cloth is trimmed while the epoxy is still green... waiting for the next coat of epoxy... the cloth was trimmed at the base of the bulwark and about 1 inch above the deck on the hatch combing and cabin verticals...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/foredeckglassedfirstcoat-72.jpg

This closeup shows the surfaces above...before glassing...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/bulwarkscuppers-72ANN-1.jpg

More to come... see ya later...

RodB

[Sailor]

Anxiously awaiting more!!!

[almeyer]

Also anxiously waiting more...
Just wondering, why is xynole used in some areas and fiberglass on others?
Al

[Wild Dingo]

MORE??? You want MORE??? :mad:



Bloody oath we do!!! :cool: Come on Rod get yer finga out!!! :rolleyes:

Coming along a treat isnt she ;)

[RodB]

Xynole is used where a higher level of protection is necessary, such as the bottom of the hull and the cabin top... the deck sheathing did not have to be xynole as the 6 oz cloth seen here will be covered with 1/4" teak planks... all that was required was to fabricate a strong moisture barrier underlying the teak decking. More to come this next week.

RodB

[Paul Pless]

Excellent photodocumentation as always Rod.

Thanks for continuing the storyline.

[almeyer]

Got it! Thanks, Rod. A couple of weekends ago my brother and I sheathed his lapstrake outboard runabout with xynole - his choice. The xynole worked beautifully around the curves and wrapping around the laps. But my brother also mentioned it was somewhat more expensive than f-glass.
Al

[Sailor]

Bump

[RodB]

Almeyer,

The main thing is not the cost of the Xynole over fiberglass, but the difference in the "cake of epoxy" you will end up with using xynole vs fiberglass... Mr Lathrop's tests showed increased abrasion resistance with xynole over fiberglass by a factor of 5-8...can't remember exactly. So... you need to decide if you require the extra protection and that you won't mind the additional weight and expense of more epoxy and the slight difference in the fabric cost.,.

More to come on Susan real soon, the builder has been out of town...


RodB

[Paul Pless]

bump by request

[RodB]

The glassing of the decks/cabin sides, deckhouse sides, etc... was completed along with the inner and outer surfaces of the bulwarks. Here the overlap of the fiberglass at the corner joint of the bulwark and the deck is shown... The fillet at the bottom edge of the bulwark was applied only after both the fiberglass on the bulwark and the deck were terminated there... PHOTOS ... NIKON D300 AND 18-200VR DX LENS..

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/bulwarks-caprinteriorsurface-fillet.jpg

Here is the exterior surface of the bulwark, note the fiberglass starts at the top of the bulwark and extends down to below the beginning of the topsides...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/bulwarkextglassed-72-ANN.jpg

This shows the terminations of the fiberglass cloth at the stern bulwarks...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/Caprailkneetransom-72ANN.jpg

Next, the cap rail was installed/dryfitted...note: previously on this thread the milling of the caprail was shown. The following pics show various views of the oak cap rail. The oak cap rail was sawn to shape and dry fitted and fastened with galvanized lag bolts... Its easy to visualize the attractiveness of the cap rail once the bungs have been installed.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/caprailatbowoverhead-72.jpg

This shows the stem assembly of the cap rail... and an nice joint at the center of the stem utilizing a spline for alignment and a strong joint...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/caprstemall-72.jpg

A closeup of the cap rail joint at the stem...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/caprsplineatstemcloseupspl-72.jpg



continued...

RodB

[RodB]

The cap rail will be removed next and the inner and outer surfaces of the bulwark will be finish sanded and then epoxy primered... and painted white... Next the cap rail will be reinstalled using a removable bedding compound like lifecalk etc... so that replacing the caprail will be much easier. Naturally, bungs will be installed atop all the fasteners in the cap rail. Note the cabin side is glassed now ...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/caprailbowview1-72.jpg

The scarf joints of the cap rail are fastened with galvanized bolts...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/caprailscarflagsetc-72-ANN.jpg

The stock that was fitted across the stern required larger galv lag bolts to be pulled down to the shape at the transom... The cap rail shape at the transom corners was conceptualized by the builder to satisify his own aesthetic requirements...
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/caprailoverheadtransom-72.jpg


Another shot showing the amount of bend required to make the sternmost piece of the cap rail fit...
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/caprailattransomlags-knees-72.jpg

A nice shot of the cap rail from the stern...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/televiewcaprailsternview-72.jpg

This shot shows the cap rail at the transom and the knees the builder decided to incorporate....

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/caprailsternknee-fasteners-72.jpg

Continued...

RodB

[RodB]

Continuing, here is the overhead shot of the entire deck and cap rail... She sure looks like a little ship...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/caprailbalconybest-72.jpg

This shot shows a nice cap rail scarf joint along with the now glassed cabin side.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/caprailscarfbowview-72.jpg

Profile view of the cap rail at the stern...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/caprailprofileattransom-72.jpg

TEAK DECK INSTALLATION...BEGINNINGS...
Next ... this is a preview of the dry fitting of the teak decking... which will be epoxied down...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakstripsdryfitatbow-72.jpg

Each piece of teak stock has a rabbit cut along one edge so when the decking is glued in place, the groove for the black compound will be integral with the installation...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/Teakstockrabbit-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/Teakdeckingdrylaidatbow-72.jpg

Well, this kinda shows whats next... so teak deck installation comes next...

RodB

[ucb4ume]

WOW! Just WOW!

This is a massive undertaking for one person. I think about all the details I have to keep up with, just building a relatively simple 18' runabout and then I think about all the detail that goes into this build. Very impressive! Keep the pictures coming.

[RodB]

Oh yea, the veneer was applied to the transom recently... The staple holes still need to be filled...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/transomveneeron-72.jpg

RodB

[Cecil Borel]

He's making fantastic progress Rod (you must be helping out). Thanks for posting the pictures.

[RodB]

Hey Cecil,

We were just talking about the progress yesterday... Bob allowed that it will probably be another two years before completion...but earlier he had estimated sooner.

How is the progress on the Kahuna?

RodB

[Eric D]

Rob, thanks for the next installment. Looks great.

Tell Bob he is doing great work.

One question for you, on the forward deck, I see the ply has some "footballs" in it, what type of ply was used? I am assuming fir??

[RodB]

Eric,

You are right... just some fir he had sitting around the shop ...and it is the underlayer for the deck...

RodB

[RodB]

Previous you can see the teak decking dry fitted at the bow... The teak stock here was a deal for a bunch of tongue and groove teak flooring. In this use naturally the tongue and groove are cut off and the small rabbit was cut via a daddo as shown above in closeup.

The decking is began on the centerline of the deck and then working towards the bulwarks. This deck was fir ply installed atop the laminated deck beams with all screws buried into the ply and epoxy filler put in atop the screw heads. Once the deck ply was filled and faired, the milled teak decking was dry fitted then glued with epoxy. Note: there will be no fasteners in this teak deck...so the deck on this boat will be sealed completely from moisture intrusion.

Here you can see the foredeck with the center portion epoxied down... and the lateral sections dry fitted. Note the perimeter piece of teak decking begins here and runs completely around the deck.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakdeckforedeckfitted-glued-72-ANN.jpg

Oh, yeah, the underside of the teak is marked up, which means it is run across the band saw blade at an acute angle to make for a good gluing surface... as show below... the first photo is the natural sawn surface, the second photo is the ready to glue surface.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/Teakstockundersurfaceplain-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakstockmarkedviabandsaw-72.jpg

Heres how its done... easyily with a band saw.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/markingoffteakstockcloseup-72.jpg

Heres a nice closeup of the scarf joints along the perimeter...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/scarfjntsteakperimeter-72.jpg

This shows the perimeter teak strip along the length of the deck...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakperimeterfrombow-72.jpg

Scarfing the curve at the transom comes next...

RodB

[RodB]

Here we are at the rear deck starting into a severe curve, which will call for much shorter pieces to make the turn and to look nice.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakperimeterataturn-72.jpg

First a piece of pattern material (cheap luan ply) is cut close to the shape it will be used for, and laid close to the surface that is to be matched... then when its kinda in the ball park of the required shape, the dividers are used to scribe the exact shape...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/scribingpatternbest-72-ANN.jpg

Next, the shape is cut on the bandsaw, and checked and rechecked... and planed and sanded to get a perfect fit.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/bandsawingpatterncloseupblade-72.jpg

Now the dividers are set to the exact width of the teak stock and a parallel line is drawn to get the proper width drawn on the pattern...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/scribingpatternforwidthcloseup-72.jpg

Another cut, and the pattern is close to being done except for the scarf joint...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/bandsawingpatterncloseupovershoulde.jpg

Heres the pattern ready to have the scarf joints drawn and cut...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/perimeterpatterncompleted-72.jpg

[RodB]

Note, the teak cut from the pattern is shorter than the pattern piece for the corner as the width of usable teak is only about 2.75 inches... and as you see here, this piece will have to incorporate a scarf joint, thus it will be even shorter...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/usingpatterntomarkteakstrip-72-ANN.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakperimeterturn1stpieceteak-72.jpg

Here the next piece (cut from the other end of the same pattern) is fitted with a scarf joint but left long...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/turnattranperimeter2ndpiece-72.jpg

Here you can see the next piece ended up quite short due to the extremeness of the curve...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/Teakperimetermidturn-72.jpg

Here a long pattern is made coming out of the turn...obviously, each side of the stern will have the same pattern of teak perimeter pieces... with both comming together in the center line at the transom with a center piece made to give symmetry...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/patternmadecompletingturnattran-72.jpg

Here the pattern is drawn on the teak stock, then cut and fitted precisely in place...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/patternonteakstockattransom-72.jpg

Just a little more, and I'm done for now... continued...

RodB

[RodB]

Here, the turn has been made... this piece will be left for now untill the opposing side of the deck has the perimeter teak strip run aound and then they will both be fitted to an appropriate centerline piece of teak...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakperimturncompleted-72-ANN.jpg

Now Bob will head back up front to the port foredeck and start back again to duplicate what has been done on the starboard side. ... blending into the previous work at the center of the transom...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/Teakscarfsforedeckperimeternice-72.jpg

Heres a shot of the port side of the deck from the stern... Note a few more pieces need to be dry fitted ...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/portsideteakbeinglaid-72.jpg

Heres the center deck area where the teak has been dry fitted already...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakfittedcenterdeck-72-ANN.jpg

Oh yea, the bulwarks have been primed and painted one coat... the cap rail was bedded and fastened down.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/paintedbulwarkexterior-72.jpg

And finally, a close view of the port side of the foredeck... more to follow but mostly the teak deck will be completed by the next time I take any photos... I hope these posts illustrate clearly how the process goes...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakforedeckfitted-72.jpg

RodB

[Trebuchet]

Beautiful.

[RodB]

Thanks...

R

[tossedman]

Yeah, what the stone hurler said! :p

Todd

[davidagage]

Hey Rod, what was the choosen goo to glue the teak to the ply? Also, what was the deciding factor to go straight laid? It sure looks great!!

Thanks,

DG

[RodB]

The teak is glued down with epoxy... all teak prepped as shown above... and wiped with acetone just prior to gluing.

I'll have to get back to you on why straight laid...

RodB

[rufustr]

Thanks for keeping us up to date.
I have followed closely from the beginning, and am looking forward to the sailing photos when that happens.

[RodB]

Maybe another year and a half...

RodB

[Sailor]

Nice! I think we're all waiting for launch day with bated breath. We're pullin' for ya!

[RodB]

The teak decks on this boat pretty much had to be straight laid as "sprung decks require thicker strips (closer to square I think) that can withstand being bent to shape... With this build of "Susan" the teak stock was a pretty good deal for 3/8" thick tongue and groove milled stock... (about 3" in width) and you cannot edge bend wide flat pieces... FYI Naturally, all the stock is dry fitted first... and much of the fitted stock needs to be held in place with weights to allow for more to be fitted.

Progressing with the gluing down of the teak strips here at least 2/3 of the teak has been glued down.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teak2-3donebalcony-72.jpg

Here, the foredeck is completed... still to come... black compound to be applied to the grooves between the slats and sanding...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakforedeckangleshot-72.jpg

A little closer view...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakforedeckatstem-72.jpg

The stern deck almost completed...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teaksterndeck-72.jpg

Stock fitted waiting to be glued...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teaksternstarboard-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakfrombowentiredeck2-3done-72.jpg

After all the teak is glued with epoxy... the black compound will be applied to the grooves.... then the entire deck will be sanded... Bob has not decided yet whether to leave the teak natural or to coat with Cetol...

RodB

[RodB]

I thought these two photos would show the pattern from start to finish clearly.... All of this will look so much better once the black compound is applied and all is sanded...

Here from above.. the perimeter being fitted at the starboard corner of the stern...
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakturnattransom-72-2.jpg

And here all fitted and glued...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/teakattransompatternclose-72.jpg

More progress in a couple of weeks...

RodB

[RodB]

With all teak strips glued down, next the entire deck surface was sanded with a belt sander to remove any excess epoxy. Here are some photos of the sanded deck... before the black compound will be added to the grooves...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/teaksandedalldeckbowview-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/teakbowviewback-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/teakdkssternanglestarboard-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/teakdkssternarea-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/teakdeckssternportview-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/teakdksoverhead-722.jpg

RodB

[RodB]

The hatch cover for the steering gear was fabricated and set in place... as seen here... the freshly worked osage is quite yellow... and still needs to be shaped/faired and then aged before varnishing...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/teakdkssternviewallwide-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/teakdkssternhatchsteet-72.jpg

This hatch will cover the steering gear... and the steering shaft will exit out the front of the hatch and mount about 8-10 inches from the rear wall of the cockpit.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/Hatchsteeringrough-72.jpg

The following pics of the entryway hatch show the wonderful color that can be attained letting Osage wood age.... with a little help from 3 coats of linseed oil over a few weeks. The final stage here will be applying several coats of quality spar varnish to all the aged Osage hatches and trim.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/entrywayhatchoxidizednice-72.jpg


http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/Teakaroundcabinsanded-72.jpg

Next will the the application of the black compound into the grooves of the teak deck... and then final sanding... see ya later..

Rodb

[Trebuchet]

Looks great! There are a few threads I look forward to seeing updates, and this is definitely one of them. Thanks for sharing.

[RodB]

I'm glad you like it... sometimes I think I put too much detail...

Here is the "beer cooler" hatch that can be accessed from the cockpit... not on the original "Susan"...

RodBhttp://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Misc%20boats%20etc/teakatbeercoolerhatch-72.jpg

[SMARTINSEN]

RobB please do not fret about posting too much detail. This is a great thread.

I may have missed it, but what will he use to pay the seams with?

[RodB]

The seams of the Teak deck will be filled with an alternative compound sold by the company that sells a teak decking system.. I am pretty sure Bob did not want to use the standard polysulfide... and according to his research this new compound works very well.

I will get the name of this compound and post it here.

RodB

[C. Ross]

Great thread, Rod. Thanks very much!

[Green Boat]

We're putting in a stem post made from osage orange, how do u find it hold a finish? paint, varnish, or oil? and hows it would hpld up as a mallet or chisel handles?

[RodB]

Osage is stronger than teak I believe, more rot resistant.... and heavier. It should do anything you want to do with it if you dont' mind the weight. It glues well too.

From Wikipedia...

Wood: Bright orange yellow, sapwood paler yellow; heavy, hard, strong, flexible, capable of receiving a fine polish, very durable in contact with the ground. Sp. gr., 0.7736; weight of cu. ft., 48.21 lb (21.87 kg).

The heavy, close-grained yellow-orange wood is very dense and is prized for tool handles, treenails, fence posts, electrical insulators, and other applications requiring a strong dimensionally stable wood that withstands rot. Straight-grained osage timber (most is knotty and twisted) makes very good bows. In Arkansas, in the early 19th century, a good Osage bow was worth a horse and a blanket.[3] Additionally, a yellow-orange dye can be extracted from the wood, which can be used as a substitute for fustic and aniline dyes. When dried, the wood also makes excellent fire wood that burns long and hot. [7]

from this link...
http://www.windsorplywood.com/nam_hardwoods/osage_orange.html

Working Properties: Osage orange is difficult to work because of its hardness. It holds glue and screws well, but it is difficult to nail.

Durability: Rated as exceptionally resistant to heartwood decay; one of the most durable woods in North America.

RodB

[P.L.Lenihan]

Hey!What's with the slash butt-joints on the cabin corner moldings in picture number 4 of post number 36??!!!No 12:1 scarfs :) Just kidding RodB....interesting way of doing corner moldings! Very nice progress and excellent pictures.In fact, keep posting nice sharp detail pictures like that and I just may begin to regret not laying a teak deck over the entire roof of the boat I'm building:) The "beer cooler" is precious too!!

Continued success to the builder and never despair about your pictures......there can never be enough of yours!!

Peter

[RodB]

I haven't given it much thought ... ie., scarfs on the trim... sure looks fine to me... I guess there are many ways to do everything...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/susan%20const%204/cabintrimandhatches-72.jpg

Bob has built many boats... he usually has the philosophy... "maintain a high level of finish...but do not create an enormous amount of work if it is not necessary.."

More to come in the next couple of weeks. Probably will be starting segment #9 as this one is getting too long.

RodB

[gert]

I can't wait for the book to come out.

Seriously; you should.

I absolutely love the cap rail.

[Rapelapente]

Idem!
This so sweet design seems to be served by a serious builder!
I love Peterson schooners !

[RodB]

She is sweeeeeet!

http://pic15.picturetrail.com:80/VOL595/4284825/9007612/127686071.jpg

RodB

[Svensk]

Rod,
That's not "Sweet" it's, "Fantabulouse". In the old world we would be calling Bob "Mr. Master Boat Builder". I salute you Bob. Excellence in woodworking craftsmanship. Don't forget to attached something in Mesquite wood and I'm still looking forward to see you some weekend. Were going to run out with Rod last weekend to meat Bob but got held back.
Sincerely...........Petehttp://www.woodenboat.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

[SMARTINSEN]

More to come in the next couple of weeks. Probably will be starting segment #9 as this one is getting too long.
RodB

Yes, thanks, not that I mind looking back through this thread.

[RodB]

This is the end of segment #8, Segment number 9 is the continuation of this thread... gotta keep these segments a little smaller to the load time for the images is not too long.

Continued to segment #9

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2044683&posted=1#post2044683

RodB