sawn teak veneer

[islandteak]

I am open for opinions regarding the desirability of 3/16" (5mm) bandsawn teak veneers running from 8 inch (203mm) to 14 inch (355mm) in width from 2 ft. (609 mm) to 8 feet (2,438 mm). I am presently milling prototypes and experimenting with adhesives.

These bandsawn veneers will require further jointing and sanding down to 1/8" (3mm) to keep the cost reasonably affordable.

regards...Ken

[gregleeber]

I have a coaming that would look great with a sheet of teak over it.

How can I get more info on this?

[islandteak]

My website is www.islandteak.ca At the moment we are simply milling 3/16" thick sawn veneers to crate an inventory. Teak needs to oxidize a bit after milling to develop the colour most associated with teak. These are thin, naturally sawn veneers and not plywood, they must be adhered to a substrate of some kind.

regards..Ken

[JimConlin]

This is beginning to sound like commerce.

[kc8pql]

This is beginning to sound like commerce.

I agree.

[islandteak]

This is beginning to sound like commerce.

I stand corrected. Not my intention.
I am more interested in how various veneer quality adhesives hold up over the years and the ideal thickness of sawn veneers.

Has anyone first applied epoxy resin to stabalise the back side of thicker/wider sawn veneer ?

....Ken

[Thad Van Gilder]

I do use epoxy to attach 1/4 inch teak to fiberglass transoms on production boats, if thats what you mean...

-Thad

[Robert W. Long]

I have done lots of sawing of veneers and lots of vacuum veneering. A good rule of thumb regarding ideal thickness of veneers for glueing to a substrate is 1/10th of an inch. Any more and you risk having the edge joints curl open on the top surface, as well as wood movenemt problems in general. Also do not use contact cement. The best results I have had have been from using Unibond 800. Less water in the formula and no creep at all.
Now I am out of pocket two cents.

[islandteak]

I am new to veneering, but have fair experience in laying teak/sikaflex decks. Thanks for the glue suggestion. I did try contact cement and discovered what creep is. At the moment I am using 1/8" and thought of applying a thin epoxy coating on the solvent washed backsides of the veneers for increased stability when using contact cement to replace worn veneers during dockside refits. Do you think this should eliminate the contact cement creep ?