Mooring Bits

[boylesboats]

After searching for some and I am shocked :eek:

Do anybody ever made their own?

[Thorne]

Well the wood ones I've seen in real life and in photos seem to be more samson post than mooring bit, but I'm sure some folks build 'em from wood with a metal crossbar.

http://www.eyeinhand.com/Galleries/Albums/StMichaels-2008/source/image/_mg_4185.jpg
Here's one of Barry's pics from the MASCF...

[Ian McColgin]

Sure. Couple of oak posts embracing either side of the stem and up through the deck, partnered and make sure to add a central deck beam if none at present.

Maybe a bronze rod between them to give something to make turn on, but I took the one on Goblin off, preferring to keep the option to use each bit seperatly (with a tuggy's hitch) as needed.

The top end grain of the oak should be protected by oiling the bejeezuss out of it and then making a cap with flashing lead.

Relieve the four corners on each bit for about half the above deck length starting a quarter up. This will accept the line nicely and look shippy.

G'luck

[boylesboats]

How about capping off a oak post with bronze or brass cap, with bronze rod driven cross-wise through it?

[Ian McColgin]

The cap needs to overlap down the sides maybe 1/8" or so, tacked around the verticle, and made of something soft so any stray lifting edge or corner won't hurt people or gear. Lead is easier to pound into shape and is softer than brass or bronze. Also you can get it cheap.

[Captain Blight]

As somebody who uses a a foredeck bitt every day at work, I'd like to chip in with my own experience:

--Diameter of the bollards at least three times rope's circumference.
--Distance between uprights five times rope circ.
--Mount them athwartships, not fore 'n aft as harbor tugs do. The athwartships position gives you a better lead over the bow and more options for tying off.
--Crosspiece should be equal in diameter to twice rope's circumference. One would never simply tie off around the crosspiece but it does get some fairly hefty strain so strength is a factor here.
--Mount further aft than you think you need to. It's nice to have a bit of room in front of it. If nothing else it provides a fairer lead to the bow chocks.
--I'm not a huge fan of the tugboat hitch. It doesn't do anything a round turn and three figure-eights around/between the bollards of the bitts won't do, and it's an old-skool straight-up sonofabitch to cast off if there's any kind of a strain on it. If you feel you need added security, throw more fig. 8s on ("Keepin' the bitts warm") and take a standing hitch around one of the uprights. The whole point of bitts as opposed to a Samson post is that it makes tying off easier and safer because you don't use the tugboat hitch.


Just my 2¢.

[boylesboats]

<bump>
Awwww come on guys...
Thank Captain Blight... great helpful hints