Drill or Screwdriver?

[Krunch]

I'm in the market for as new corded 1/2" drill/screwdriver, and I'm curious of you folks' opinions.

The drill will be used for driving screws fairly frequently, and I can't decide whether to get a regular drill or one set up specifically as a screwdriver.

I originally was going to get a Milwaukee drill, but that doesn't have the variable-torque clutch, which seems pretty important to me.

On the other hand, the Milwaukee screwdriver, which does have the variable-torque clutch, also has a hex drive coupling, rather than a chuck, which would make drilling more of a pain.

Which way would you all go?

FWIW, I also have a Makita 1/2" cordless drill whose batteries are getting old, and a corded Skil 3/8" drill, which is getting tired.

Thanks for any insights.

Jeff

[Canoeyawl]

I have driven many thousands of screws with my 3/8 Milwaukee drill.
Thinking, "Hmm... I bought that drill in 1980 and one set of brushes, one trigger and a lube job - not bad. Several boats and several buildings later it's still running strong"
(*Opinion)- 1/2" is way too bulky/heavy for screws and a clutch is mostly a pain, just more bulk and never strong enough.

[Scott Rosen]

If you're going to drive screws, you should have a variable torque clutch.

I've tried driving screws with my Milwaukee 1/2" corded drill. It ain't pretty.

[Lew Barrett]

If you're really going to drive screws, what you need is one of these (or one like it). Best tool out there for the job of mechanizing driving fasteners for the common man.

Makita impact driver (http://www.amazon.com/Makita-6916DWDE-Cordless-Impact-Driver/dp/B000056NO8)

Then buy a drill for drilling. Otherwise, you'll want a variable torque clutch as Scott suggests if you want to do double duty. But there is no real substitute for the new crop of impact drivers. Those who haven't tried them are entitled to be skeptics. Those who own them know how well they work.

[Canoez]

Well, depending on what type of screws you're driving and what you're driving them into, a lot of the "old-timers" like a bit-brace for driving screws as you get immediate feedback if you're stripping the screw - you don't tend to get any real feel back from a power driver until it's too late.

[Jay Greer]

I agree with Canoez. I do still swear by my old Yankee drivers, that allow me to feel the fastening as it is driven, as well as a brace and screw driver bit for honking big screws. My Milwaukee screw drivers are handy, small, have a clutching system and drive up to #10 screws. I keep several batteries charged and on hand. I also have more than one driver. My new Festool drill driver replaced one of my Milwaukee cordless drills which, incidently do have a clutch. It was expensive but has an excellent clutching system. It comes with two batteries and an off set and angle driver head. And, the batteries last for an amazing amount of time! Still the little Milwaukee drivers are my constant and most often used tools in the shop. And, I do find that the Milwaukee drill is the most rugged cordless drill I have owned to date. The Festool is too new to comment on longevity.
Jay

[tmonahan]

I came across a great ratcheting screw driver for planking bronze screws up to 12's. Easy on the hands with a lot of control . I would never trust myself with a power drill on planks and fine finish work..

Drill with my Milwauki corded drill, countersink with my Bosch Liteon 12v and drive them home with my ratcheting screw driver..

traditional in a way..a no brainer for me

[redbopeep]

We have several drills (corded), a Milwaukee 28V drill, and a "low torque" pneumatic driver (from Harbor Freight, cheap) that are good for use with screws.

If you need to "feel" the screw going in...then we use a Yankee driver or one of our bit & brace drivers OR the low torque cheapy pneumatic driver (it doesn't have enough "umph" to strip out the screws and you can vary the torque with it easier than using some drills or battery drivers).

For #16, 18, 20, 24 screws (big) we primarily use the pneumatic driver; for #12-14 we primarily use the 28V Milwaukee; for #10 and below, its Yankee or the Milwaukee or a corded drill if someone else is using one of the preferred tools. We use the bit and brace in "special" circumstances.

:)

[Bob Cleek]

Even a 1/2" Milwaukee is adequate for occasionally driving drywall screws, which seem to have replaced nails for a lot of applications these days. (Not on the boat itself, of course, but for assembly of patterns, staging, and so on.) Screws come out a lot easier than nails. If you are going to be doing a lot of rough screw work, like laying decking (house decking, that is), then a dedicated for-the-purpose powered screw driver is what you want. While it doesn't matter in rough work, I couldn't even guess at how many screws I've snapped, slots I've galled, and screws I've driven too deeply with my Milwaukee, so I don't even think about using it for fine work.

That said, I would have to say that the first drill motor anybody ought to think about buying should be the corded Milwaukee half incher... "Takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'."

For boat work, or any other work where you want the best results, it's still a Yankee for small stuff and an brace and bit for the big stuff. These days, there are a few outfits even selling conversion chucks for the Yankees that will accept hex shanked driver bits. I gotta get me some! The standard Yankee driver bits are somewhat hard to find in all the screw slot sizes and shapes now around. The hex converter allows you to use just about any bit shape and size you could imagine.

[Lew Barrett]

Well, depending on what type of screws you're driving and what you're driving them into, a lot of the "old-timers" like a bit-brace for driving screws as you get immediate feedback if you're stripping the screw - you don't tend to get any real feel back from a power driver until it's too late.

It's all true as you (and Bob and Jay) say, and for many screw driving jobs, nothing beats a screw driver, but that wasn't what Krunch asked. He asked about mechanizing the program. For that, nothing beats a purpose built tool
made for the job.

I've always liked the feel of a directly linked mechanical device and there's no question for slotted, R&P and the like you'll get feedback that an electrical tool can't give you. This really counts extra when you're driving bronze fasteners or trying to back out a stuck screw. But if you're looking to drive a lot of square heads fast the Makita I mentioned is worth looking on to. The NiMh batteries in mine have been exemplary as well, although I believe newer units have lithium batteries.

I've been here long enough to know one can pretty much predict that if somebody asks what the best electrical tool for driving (or backing out) fasteners is, the answer will frequently be "Yankee screwdriver (or B&B)." Just an observation, now!

[redbopeep]

Yep, we've got one of those converters that I purchased when I got the Yankee. Can't remember where I got it though.

Lew, about the "whats the best"...powered, seriously the (underpowered) pneumatic tools are great in terms of fidelity rather than using a battery screw driver or drill, IMHO. A high-torque pneumatic tool is NOT what he'd want though. For the slotted #14 and #18 its great. And, for backing out old fasteners, it works great too. And, a good Yankee is a pleasure to use--even for a "weak girl" like me! I usually abhor non-power tools because I'm not as strong as my husband, but the Yankee is easy to use (on smaller screws)...I think you'll keep seeing that response. :)

[Krunch]

Thank you all for so many really thoughtful replies. Now ya got me thinkin'!

Jeff

[kenjamin]

Buy a Makita 18V Li ion impact driver. Once you go there, nothing else compares. You will be spoiled for life. It's all about the power and control. You can thank me later.:D

http://ford.physics.fsu.edu/X-table5647.jpg

[RodB]

I think it is hard to beat the Milwaukee corded drills... I have owned them for years... only paid about $65 for my 1/2" and its like new.. (pawn shop)...

Cordless: Get the Makita 18V kit LI Ion... (the new 10.x volt Li Ion at Home Depot kit is pretty cool too) which will include a drill, a impact driver and a case, charger and two batteries. I have this same setup in their 12 volt system and it is a really solid tool system. The impact driver will drive 5" screws in oak easily... the drill will drive screws when you want more finese... I use the drill more than the impact driver, for all sorts of boat work... drill or screws.... I use the impact driver when I need to drive plenty of screws.

The 12 volt has plenty of power, so the 18 volt tools from Makita are as light as the 12 volt but last longer... even the 12 volt impact driver will twist off the heads of screws of poor quality or if you go into a hard wood and the screw cannot go any farther...

AS above... I cannot imagine not having a 1/2" Milwaukee corded, a 3/8" Milwaukee corded hammer drill (for serious drilling), and a good cordless drill and impact driver..... all very necessary for many tasks...

Good luck,

RodB

[Canoez]

It's all true as you (and Bob and Jay) say, and for many screw driving jobs, nothing beats a screw driver, but that wasn't what Krunch asked. He asked about mechanizing the program. For that, nothing beats a purpose built tool
made for the job.
.....
I've been here long enough to know one can pretty much predict that if somebody asks what the best electrical tool for driving (or backing out) fasteners is, the answer will frequently be "Yankee screwdriver (or B&B)." Just an observation, now!

I appreciate what you're saying, Lew. If I can do a job with a power tool, I will, but sometimes there is no substitute for doing things by hand. I've got a student who is looking to build an Adirondack Guideboat and will be driving a whole bunch of #3 screws as part of the job. We've tossed the idea of a small power driver and a Yankee screwdriver for the job. For this task, the screws are so small, I think by hand is the way to go.

In this case, Jeff wasn't specific about what he was doing with the drill. I guess that's why Thorne's mantra of "what" "where" and "how" seem to spring up...

[ishmael]

What sort of screws?

I've driven my share of drywall screws and a driver(basically a 3/8 electric drill with a special head on it, purpose built) was a revelation. Corded or cordless.

If we're talking screws in a wooden boat I still like a brace. We're not talking drywall and I like to feel how snug it is. Feel which isn't there with a screw gun. It decides, and if it's set right it does a good job.

[Tom Robb]

I love my short throw brace for screws in nice work. As above for drywall work - a corded dw screw gun will save your sanity. If you have the cash the new impact drivers have everyone who's got one impressed.

[TimmS]

Buy a Makita 18V Li ion impact driver. Once you go there, nothing else compares. You will be spoiled for life. It's all about the power and control. You can thank me later.:D

http://ford.physics.fsu.edu/X-table5647.jpg

My preference is a 1/2" Makita cordless drill (with a chuck). I also own an impact type and I find it noisy and slow compared to the drill. You can drive screws very quickly and accurately with a drill if it has an electric brake so you can stop it instantly. I never use the clutch because you have no feel of what is going on and if the wood is softer/ harder in a few spots the depth will be wrong.

[Boatsmith]

I also have switched to the new cordless impact drivers for screws . David

[PeterSibley]

What sort of screws?

I've driven my share of drywall screws and a driver(basically a 3/8 electric drill with a special head on it, purpose built) was a revelation. Corded or cordless.

If we're talking screws in a wooden boat I still like a brace. We're not talking drywall and I like to feel how snug it is. Feel which isn't there with a screw gun. It decides, and if it's set right it does a good job.

The type of screw is relevant ,I'm fine with square and phillips drives with a power tool ,preferably 12v ,I find the inertia of a big drills winding a real problem with small fastenings .Slotted is a problem for me ...or was 'til I found a neat little tool with a spring loaded slide that keeps the bit in the slot .A Makita part .:)

Some good advice above !

[Yeadon]

The Makita 18 lithium ion set with the half inch drill, the little impact drive and the light will keep you going for the next 10 years. Quality stuff. Good value.

Milwaukee is great, too.

My theory on it all is that you want your set to share batteries, so it's easy to stay charged and moving.

Regardless, get a bit brace, too. It's amazing how much finesse and torque you can muster at the same time with a bit brace.

(More tools are happier tools, I always mumble.)