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peter snowdon
06-27-2003, 12:00 PM
Hi,I'm new to this forum.I'm restoring a 40 year old Atalanta 26,designed by Uffa Fox
and built in England.I'm living in Vienna Austria and I am urgently in need of effective
screw extractors.There was an article in a recent issue on the subject which
unfortunately I have lost.I checked old issues and found references to T and L tools
and Bryco.Unfortunately the contact phone numbers seem to be incorrect.
If anybody can supply me with this information or any other systems which they feel are
efective,I would be much obliged.
peter

Barry
06-27-2003, 12:31 PM
Hi Peter:
McFeely's caries them. Screw Extractors (http://store.yahoo.com/squaredrive/tools-screw-extractors.html)

Tom Kenny
06-27-2003, 01:19 PM
Hello Peter. I have used the McFeely's screw extractors quite a few time and love it.

Ed Harrow
06-27-2003, 02:57 PM
Peter, can you be a little more specific? Depending on circumstances (and assuming wood screws) I've used left handed bits, roll pins (modified), expanding slotted screw drivers, screw gun, very flexible spatchula to get under the head.

I've not used the McFeely extractors, but if http://www.mcmaster.com/ doesn't have it, you don't need it, LOL. I have no idea of M-C's international operations, however.

cbob
06-27-2003, 05:40 PM
peter, have used T&L extractors, which are roll pins of various lengths and diameters, with unset saw teeth cut in one or both ends, something, if you can imagine, a mini hole saw with unset teeth, set up to cut in the left hand rotational direction. They are on the shelf at a local Ace or Tru Value hardware store here in the Bay Area, not cheap however. If you could get hold of one and have access to roll pins, possibly a saw shop could duplicate locally. Good Luck. cbob

Nicholas Carey
06-27-2003, 08:43 PM
Check out Unscrew-ums™ (http://www.tltools.com/) from T & L tools.

cdm4
06-28-2003, 08:34 AM
These are great for rounded out screws The 1/8 size and a #30 drill bit. CM

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro.asp?tool=all&SUB_Cat_ID=1620603&SUB_Cat_NAME=Extractor+Tools&Cat_ID=1620602&Cat_NAME=Extractors&group_id=1262&group_name=Multi%2DSpline+Extractor s&store=snapon-store]Snap-On

Donn
06-28-2003, 12:03 PM
...

Stan Derelian
06-29-2003, 01:15 AM
I've made them by getting a hard steel alloy tube (4000 series) from a retail metal supplier, filing teeth, and then using it in the drill. Worked well, and cheap. Up to 1/2 is easiest. For larger than that, I welded a smaller diameter piece of bar in the end that goes in the drill chuck.

Tyee1937
06-29-2003, 01:46 AM
This is a subject of some concern for me as well. I've never actually used a special tool designed for drilling out screws or coring them out, but have made do with drillling around the offending fastener until it was loose enough to withdraw, and then cleaning up the hole with a slightly larger bit and then doweling.

I'm going to be removing and replacing a lot of galvanized iron nails in my 32' Price design power boat, circa 1937, and have been wondering what the best type or brand of extractor to use might be. I like the idea of coring them out, but as has been pointed out to me, the nails may not be driven straight.

Someone told me of a flexible corer that would follow the fastener at whatever angle it is, but I have never seen this, nor do I know the name of the tool. Something like that would be just the ticket, but I would love to hear some suggestions/alternatives.

[ 06-29-2003, 01:48 AM: Message edited by: Tyee1937 ]

peter snowdon
06-29-2003, 02:05 PM
Hi,Wow! I did not expect such a wealth of information so fast.This is a pretty incredible forum. I have been out of town for a few days so I've just read your replies.Thank you all for your help and I'll work on the sources that you have given me.
Ed, the fastenings are the original silicon bronze which are 40 years old.I've had to remove a hell of a lot and just about all of them have either sheared or the head has just crumbled.I've tried using the internal reverse thread extractors but its really not practical with small diameter screws ie. 6&8. Its pretty hard here in europe to find the right tool sources.I guess if my language skills were better it might be easier.
I'll keep you informed as to my progress.Thanks again for your help.
Peter

Stan Derelian
06-29-2003, 11:53 PM
Tyee, A question: If it cores it out around a curve, how will you dowel it?

Tyee1937
06-30-2003, 12:58 AM
Stan, I think that I would have to go in over the crooked hole with a slightly larger straight bit, dowel it, then drill a nice straight pilot hole for the new fastener.

Bob Adams
07-03-2003, 02:10 AM
If it's just spinning, and not backing out, you can use a method I discovered by accident.When trying to drill one of these offending fasteners to use an extractor, rather than making a hole,the fastener just spun in the clockwise direction. Unhappy, I withdrew the drill before it stopped spinning.Much to my suprise, the fastener came out with it.Tried it a few more times on purpose, worked every time!

peter snowdon
07-03-2003, 01:46 PM
Thanks for the tip Bob.No unfortunately they are in there good and tight.Bin there for the last 40 years! They either shear off half way or the head dissintergrates.
I've just ordered a bunch of extractors from T&L and I will see how I make out.Let you know how I make out though it will be a while before I get them.