Worn or loose oarlock sockets - what to do?

[Thorne]

I've got two sets of SB top-mount (flush) oarlock sockets on my dory skiff, and will have at least two on my Cosine Wherry.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/oarlocks/sd580800/SD580800big.jpg

With any of the three styles of SB oarlocks that I have, there is a fair amount of slop and looseness that I find bothersome and annoying -- not to mention noisy at times.

One trip up a river in Mendocino some kayakers thought it was an otter calling, but it turned out to be me rowing past...(and yes I've tried both oils and waterproof bearing grease).

;0 )

So, what are my options here, folks? I know that it is often recommended to purchase oarlocks and bases together, but I've already got both SB horn and Douglas locks and can't afford to buy new ones.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/oarlocks/sd580770/SD580770big.jpghttp://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/oarlocks/douglas/Doug-Lock.jpg

I guess I could ask the folks at Duckworks if I could ship them my locks and they could see what bases fit well == but am concerned that I'd still end up with a loose fit.

Many of the newer oarlocks seem to have the plastic inserts. I'm not against fitting them into the bases that I have (and the additional set I'll be buying), but wondered about replacement and overall wear issues.

Or is considering using plastic inserts a BAD THING -- akin to wanting to fiberglass over old wooden classic sailboats, or adding huge cabins to same?

TIA

[Canoeyawl]

The old style oarlocks had tapered shafts and sockets, there was a reason for that...

[Thorne]

I was afraid someone was gonna say that!

So other than casting my own oarlocks AND bases, or visiting the local Maritime museum after dark with a screwdriver, what are my options? Is anyone out there still making them tapered?

[LazyJack]

Thorne
I have exactly the same issue with my guideboats...a totally smooth quiet ride except for the cachaphonous rattling and screeching of the oarlocks.

For the guideboat I just built, instead of using bronze oarlock straps, I'm going to shape a slightly beefier version of lignum vitae, a known bearing material with endogenous resins which hopefully won't squeak!

I have exactly the same oarlock sockets you pictured above in the rail of my gunning dory...and I have the same problem with those. If the Lignum vitae works well with the guideboat, I'll let a block of it into my rails then drill it out to match the oarlock pins.

[Mrleft8]

You could try slipping a piece of shrink-wrap tubing over the oarlock shaft to see if that helps... Or just wrap 'em in electrical tape.

[TerryLL]

The squeaking can be eliminated by using a Delrin bushing between oarlock and socket. A bit of machine work will be required. Probably will need to use oversize sockets to get enough clearance for the bushing.

Delrin solid rods are available from McMaster-Carr. Buy the rod oversize, cut the rod to length, drill the oarlock hole, mount on an arbor, and turn the outside diameter on a lathe to fit the oversize socket. Leave a flange on the top so the bushing doesn't slip down the socket and fall out the bottom.

If you live right, you might just find flanged delrin bushings the right size to perfectly fit both socket and oarlock.

[Thorne]

Thanks for the ideas, guys.

The noise isn't the main issue, but the slop is. When I place the lock in the socket, it can wiggle a bit -- producing a "clunk" at every stroke as the shaft goes from one side of the socket hole to the other.

So, does anyone produce the nylon or whatever socket liners?

[htom]

You might be able to cast the correct "liner" using a modern plastic. Spray both with silicone, put the lock in the socket, fill with liquid plastic, let set, remove. Now use the plastic piece to cast a bronze liner.

[JC 72]

Hey Thorne, Thin wall brass tubing may work. Available in many sizes find some to fit the lock shafts than drill the pad with a clearance hole to fit the outside diameter of the tubing. You could solder them into the pad. Lube well with tallow and Bobs your uncle. I like the electrical tape idea though. The tallow is available from Oarsman in WB adds. Works a treat on the squeaking, but wouldn't solve the clunk. John

[john l]

regarding tape - i've seen teflon and nylon tapes which might be better than
electrical tape. btw - what is the composition/compound of electrical tape?

[Paul Scheuer]

In one of my previous jobs, I saw the correction of a missing dimension done by plating additional metal. This was an error in a plastic mold and I'm not sure how much material was needed. You might be able to accomplish the same thing. Maybe even with a more durable metal than the original.

[Tom Robb]

The delrin idea sounds good to me.
That sloppy click/clack on every stroke is annoying. I'm guessing that the manufacturers don't deal with it because they have no incentive to do so.

[videoguy]

they make nylon bushings that are made just for oar locks I have them on my dory and they work just fine. I think I got them from jamestown dist........Phil

[TerryLL]

Duckworks has flanged socket bushings, 5/8-inch OD, 1/2-inch ID.

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/oarlocks/sd582059/index.htm

[J. Dillon]

How about finding two dia. of copper pipe or tubeing , one the Id.of the upper portion of the oar lock and the other the lower portion.? Slip them into position till snug and see what happens.

Cheap and easily replaceable, err if it works.;)

JD

[rbgarr]

For a recent project I made and installed twenty four sets of the delrin bushings on oarlocks, fixing them in the shaft holes with rollpins so they'd stay with the lock when removed from the socket. Retainers were attached through holes in the horn flange. They worked slick.

I had no luck over the long term with heat shrink tube or any kind of tape. They tore up from the friction and rocking, minimal as it was.

[AHall]

I have also struggled with the top mount oarlock sockets wearing out. I had a Bolger Stretched Light Dory that a friend and I put a fair amount of miles on. Over the course of the boats lifetime the sockets were changed out 3 times. If I were to do it again, I would buy some Oilite flange bearings from http://www.mcmaster.com/ Part Number: 6338K424 They are $1.99 each, and all set up for 1/2" shank oarlocks.

I would bore a suitable size hole in the rail of the boat (or add a hardwood block if need be) and epoxy these babies in. A judicious application of a torch-heated 1/2" rod would allow them to be removed if need be.

Please note that I have not tried this, but at $4/set you don't have a lot to loose. I will bet you find that the quality of the bushing-both material and fit- to be far superior to that of the poorly (in my three cases) made oarlock sockets at $30/set.

Let us know how you make out.
Andy
Lynn, MA

[James McMullen]

Thorne, don't be a fool and waste this golden opportunity to justify spending a couple grand on that machinist's lathe you always wanted! C'mon in, the water's fine!

[Thorne]

The Oilite flanged bearings are interesting, although I don't see as discussion of how rust-proof the materials are, one of which is described as being primarily iron mixed with copper, then oil-impregnated.

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/sleevebearings/flangedsleevecollage.gif
Material Bronze Type Flanged Sleeve Bearings Specifications Met Not Rated

Bronze Type Alloy 932 (SAE 660) Bronze (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=sleevebearings&FT_158=168259&FT_101=3902&FT_1019=154363&session=desc=Oilite%20Bearings;sleevebearings,FT_1 01=3902;158=168259;1019=154363)
This hard, strong, nonporous material offers excellent resistance to shock loads (suddenly applied loads) and wear.
Alloy 954 Bronze (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=sleevebearings&FT_158=168259&FT_101=3902&FT_1019=168301&session=desc=Oilite%20Bearings;sleevebearings,FT_1 01=3902;158=168259;1019=168301)
A nonporous, cast material that's harder and stronger than Alloy 932 (SAE 660).
SAE 841 Bronze (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=sleevebearings&FT_158=168259&FT_101=3902&FT_1019=40255&session=desc=Oilite%20Bearings;sleevebearings,FT_1 01=3902;158=168259;1019=40255)
Also called Oilite. Porous material impregnated with roughly 18% SAE 30 oil, makes a virtually maintenance-free bearing. Oil acts as a cushion between the bearing and shaft, adding resistance to shock loads (suddenly applied loads) and wear. Use in areas that are difficult to access for maintenance.
High-Temperature Dry-Lube SAE 841 Bronze (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=sleevebearings&FT_158=168259&FT_101=3902&FT_1019=204168&session=desc=Oilite%20Bearings;sleevebearings,FT_1 01=3902;158=168259;1019=204168)
Meets all physical properties of SAE 841 metal bearings, but also features a proprietary graphite-based material in the walls that provides a dry running performance with very low friction in a wide range of temperatures.
SAE 863 Bronze (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=sleevebearings&FT_158=168259&FT_101=3902&FT_1019=168298&session=desc=Oilite%20Bearings;sleevebearings,FT_1 01=3902;158=168259;1019=168298)
Also called Super Oilite, this oil-impregnated material is maintenance free like SAE 841, but is made primarily of iron (mixed with copper), which makes it even stronger than SAE 841. Perfect for locations where access to bearings is limited.

[Arko]

This discussion does not bode well for me as I have the same equipment as the others in this thread. I see a cool idea in my head with those oilite bushings that I just ordered.Thanks AHall