for your amusement

[peterAustralia]

my unrefined boat

http://www.geocities.com/peterevans_33/new_outrigger_canoe_photos.html

in time it may get more respectable

regards
n peter evans

[JimD]

Incredibly ugly, but apparently serviceable.:)

http://www.geocities.com/peterevans_33/xx-pic1.JPG

[Thermo]

I like it.

[Jay Greer]

I see you as a pioneering minimalist who enjoys the spice of the adventure first.
Good on you!
Jay

[wharf rat]

I see you as a pioneering minimalist who enjoys the spice of the adventure first.
Good on you!
Jay

..nor tied to or pressured by peers to conform to ideas or concepts of beauty that happen to be championed by the masses. :D

Yes, to echo Jay: a pioneering minimalist, who is out having fun while the majority does whatever it is the majority does.

I too like it!

[2MeterTroll]

looks like a boat.

[leaotis]

I see the mast step, what rig do you use?

[Thermo]

"I see the mast step, what rig do you use?"

http://www.geocities.com/peterevans_33/xx-pic4.JPG

[Nicholas Scheuer]

Ya'don't haf'ta worry none 'bout those beams bending, do'ya?

Nicely painted, too!

Moby Nick

[rufustr]

Excellent innovative craft.:cool:

Port Phillip Bay style if ever I saw it.:cool:

Do you have any photos under sail?:cool:

Get rid of the motor, you don't need it.:cool:

[seanz]

Amused?
'Cheered up' would be closer to the mark.
:D

You'll probably go on to bigger and better things.....they probably won't be as much fun.
:)

[MiddleAgesMan]

I haven't figured out what is going on at the stern. There's a couple pieces on the starboard side that appear to be connected...the rear-most piece might be running over to the rudder. But there's something that appears to be a long tiller attached to something coming through the deck.

It's a confusing set up. I sure can't figure out how it works. :(

[peterAustralia]

HI

That is the rudder. The rudder is a simple non kickup style. It is small, about 40cm x 30cm and made of wood. It is attached to a rudder stock which is an aluminium tube with a wood dowel epoxied inside it. So this is one piece

Another piece is a heavy gauge aluminium tube (cut out of a the length of a broken double fiberglass paddle I was given) this is fixed into the boat and is vertical and open at both ends.

So the rudder and it's stock rotate through this tube.

Now at the top of the tube (at deck level) you can see a yoke and a tiller. The tiller is offset so I can sit in the rear-most seat without getting the tiller stuck in the middle of my back. The tiller has a small pin glued into it, this pin goes into the yoke (the wooden part of it)

The yoke is about 16 inches long. It is half a 12mm bolt and half a piece of ironbark wood I had lying around. I got out the angle grinder and took of the head of the bolt, drilled a 12mm hole in the wood and glued it in.

The yoke screws into a hole I drilled into the top of the rudderstock. This way I can remove the rudder from the boat if required (like going to a beach)

Finally you can see a little wooden block about 4 inches long that is taped there. What is that doing there? Well that is a sophisticated worldwide patented nut securer. I found when I was rowing (was rowing for 2 years before I added the outrigger and went sailing) the nut would come off, and this was annoying! So I glued the nut into a piece of wood. I then taped the wood to the yoke, this way the nut cannot fall off!

The downside of my rudder setup is that I have to be in deep water (3ft) in order to remove the rudder.

After 2 years I am getting wear, where the bolt (yoke) goes into the vertical rudderstock. So I am intending to glue in a metal tube so as give a tight fit. By forcing the yoke (read 12mm bolt) into the tube I can create an internal thread and have a good setup once again


I did it this way because I did not know better.

I assumed that the transom so heavily sloped that conventional rudder fittings would not work (though I do have some in my spare parts from my dads old boat)


Other things
The beams may be oversized, but I did not know better. We tested them with 250kg at midpoint (120kg person, 75kg person, 60kg person) whilst the beam was chocked up at each end on a couple of bricks. So I think the beams are strong enough

The mast partner is X shaped so as to allow the daggerboard to go up and down.

I have a motor, because to get to the bay from where I live I have to go down the Yarra river. This is filled with ships (big ships too) and the river is narrow. Thus it is much safer and less stress to have the motor in the channel, is also a matter of courtesy to other vessels. If I did not have the outrigger I could row down the river to the bay, (I can row well) . I can paddle with the outrigger attached but it is nowhere as fast. This is a downside and do not know how to overcome this, except to keep rowing and sailing trips separate.


You can see the old outboard bracket at rear. That is fine for the river, but in a chop creates more stresses and loads in a sea or chop, a position more in the center is better.


Next project is a 56L water ballast trim tank froward. With my weight aft, I really need weight forward to balance. The collapsible water bladders I am using now work well, but are not robust.


I have already built a replacement trolley. the old one has been chopped up.

I know photos of rudder are better than text, but I do not have a camera and have to borrow one to get the photos you see.


I have a conventional rig with a 19ft mast (hollow tapered Oregon/douglas fir, flawless, 50 year old, very high quality) with a jib and main, sail area is double the lugsail at 100 sqr feet, but will go with less sail area in short term. Do you think the mast is worth anything? Told is was built by some fellow called Rolly Tasker about 1955-1957

N Peter Evans

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
Certainly the mast is worth something. Could well be worth more than everything else put together, in fact.

Where on the river do you launch? From the school boathouses?

Um... this is not the boat you're proposing to round Wilsons Prom in by any chance is it, Peter?

Mike

[peterAustralia]

Hi

The Wilson's prom trip, I would prefer not to answer that.

I have plans to cover the deck in canvas/tarpaulin from bow to aft crossbeam. I realise I need hooks or something similar on the outside of the hull to secure the canvas/tarpaulin

How did you know about the Wilson's prom thingy? Did you check my previous posts. Please do not stress... just going within the bay for the near future.

N Peter Evans

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
:D You've forgotten your other thread here (http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94486).

You can get little two-piece stainless turnbutton arrangements at awning manufacturers and so on which could very well do for what you want. The turnbutton screws onto the outside of the framing somewhere, then a matching grommet in the edge of the canvas comes down over it. Turn the button and the grommet is locked in place.

I use a couple on my kayak's spray-cover to keep the cover fully closed when the boat's not in use. They're not quick-release of course, so one wouldn't use them all round a spray-cover because you could be trapped inside -- I used ordinary press-studs mounted the same way for most of mine.

In your case this won't be an issue, and in fact the non-quick-release aspect of the turnbuttons will be a plus.

Mike
By the way, while I didn't ever sail or paddle my kayak down to the Prom, I've certainly done both while she was there -- out in Bass Strait as well as on a couple of the rivers.
.

[johnw]

I like it. Sounds like worlds of fun. I suppose next you could turn it into a trimaran...

[peterAustralia]

hi

I am not keen on a trimaran. The extra stresses and weights do not appeal. With the outrigger as a counterweight I can still do 5 knots. If I was interested in going faster then I could go down the tri route, but am not interested in speed.

I put the boat in at Footscray, just down from where the Blackbird Launch of Peter Sommerville.

[WX]

I get the impression you get plenty of fun out of it, besides you are on the water doing...I'm still building. Good onya mate.

[Lewisboats]

SAY...thats pretty nice. kGood for a chuckle...here'e one that will have you rolling on the floor

http://angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Sail/happy.JPG

[kenjamin]

Hey Peter,

This is my dory/proa from thirty years ago. What I liked best about it was that you could paddle between the hulls and never have to switch sides. The drag of the pontoon matched the power of the port side paddle stoke with plenty left over to propel the boat. Back in those days, I had a little 2 HP Evinrude that pushed it nicely. http://ford.physics.fsu.edu/DoryProa.jpg

What I see about your boat that could stand the most improvement are the pontoon beams. I used many layers of Douglas fir to laminate my beams. The final set (not pictured here) were a solid lamination of about eight layers and were very strong. They did flex a little up and down but very little fore and aft. I didn't have a multi-hull trailer for it so I got tired of putting it together at launch and built a wider bottomed skiff to replace it.