wooden deck in cherry

[obscured by clouds]

I'm still in the middle of my N18 rebuild, and I was going through my stock of timber the other day and came across a load of planked up cherry that I cut through and through some 10 years ago.

Now I don't have a particular job for this wood, but I wondered if it could be used to build a deck for Sibrwd.

Bear in mind the deck won't be taking much wear 'traffic' wise, apart from my bum sitting on the side-deck, so a fairly lightweight build is Ok.

I had originally intended to deck in 6mm birch ply [suitably enveloped in epoxy] - but I was wondering about laying 40mm wide cherry edge grain strips 3mm thick onto 4mm ply bedded in a thickened epoxy [like the WEST approach]

The job will be largely for cosmetic reasons and weight is'nt a primary consideration. The boat will be dry sailed and under cover most of the time so sitting on a mooring for months on end is'nt a scenario

Suggestions? Comments?

[BBSebens]

wow.. lets have a picture of that!

Im sure it would be beautiful.

[Thorne]

Well, this cherrywood shutter outfit claims that it should weather to a lovely dark red, and hold up well -- but it could be mostly a sales pitch -
http://www.estatemillwork.com/cherry-shutters.html

Trusty durability: Cherry is a medium-density hardwood with a fine texture. It is a strong, decay-resistant wood that is fairly easy to work with. Its strength makes cherry wood a natural choice for custom wooden shutter sets. Whether stained or left natural, cherry wood shutters will give your house long-lasting panache.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Well, frankly speaking, I wouldn't.

http://www.smee.co.uk/Species/Cherry.html

"Moderately durable" and "subject to moderate movement in service" does not sound like a deck timber to me, even on a dry sailed boat. And I try to keep my dry sailed boats as light as I possibly can, hence my preference for Elite over birch plywood (much lighter).

I'd use 5mm Elite with epoxy.

[patrick.blanchard]

Sounds beautiful. PM me w/ pics if and when complete. Last year I had a nice conversation w/ my local mill. Cherry will darken w/ age because of the UV. This is why it's kept in the shade. But your application will limit UV exposure. Tung oil will not darken but does not have UV protection but might replace the natural cedar oils that will darken over time like linseed. Maybe Tung under a UV varnish? Can't wait to see it. I would do it.

[Ron Williamson]

We used cherry and walnut for cockpit floor hatches,on FIL's boat.
3/8"x2" or so,epoxed,rabbeted 1/4"x1/4",with Sikaflex between, on 3/4" MDO ply.
A couple of strips that weren't well stuck needed resticking,but otherwise a yearly coat of Cetol is all they've needed in 6-7 years.
R

[oznabrag]

Just remember that the sapwood rots so fast you can hear it.

[John Meachen]

If it were my boat and I intended to use it for a few years,I would use sapele faced gaboon.Strong,light and good looking if not cheap.Cherry may look quite good initially but I know of no other wood that darkens as readily with exposure to no more than interior levels of light.

[rob]

Black cherry heartwood is rated as highly durable , and is among the more stable domestic hardwoods. exterior UNder varnish it will darken to a rich red, left raw it goes to a smooth silver with a soft non splintering surface. I did a trailer deck in some low grade nearly 10 years ago and it is wonderful underfoot makes me wish I could do a house deck or possibly even a laid deck on a boat but I don't think it is quite stable enough for that. I think it would work fine in your application especialy if quarter sawn

[obscured by clouds]

Hmmm... as ever - conflicting repies :confused:.. about par for the course on this forum.

However, as we all know there is cherry and then there's cherry. The cherry I have is Gean or wild cherry Prunus avium and not any of the more exotic eurasion or american varieties.

I'm inclined to go with my UK compatriots who are more-or-less in the same climate as I am and ditch the idea of cherry....but I also have a load of sweet chestnut :) ..... no I'm not going to even think along those lines........

Think I'll head back towards birch for the mo.... I don't really like sapele... let alone afford it.

[David G]

obc-

I would not abandon the notion of cherry decking. Knowing that you have European Cherry - Prunus avium, and not knowing the wood at all, I looked it up in "World Woods In Color", by Lincoln. In general, it appears to share all the characteristics of American Cherry - Prunus serotina, which I am quite familiar with. I have used it successfully for a variety of marine and other outdoor applications over the years. It's not clear whether you intend to finish it bright, or leave it to weather. I've never had occasion to leave any cherry to weather, so can't speak to the advisability. However, I certainly see no other potential problems using cherry for the application you describe.


"I had a monumental idea this morning, but I didn't like it" -- Samuel Goldwyn

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Hmmm... as ever - conflicting repies :confused:.. about par for the course on this forum.

However, as we all know there is cherry and then there's cherry. The cherry I have is Gean or wild cherry Prunus avium and not any of the more exotic eurasion or american varieties.

I'm inclined to go with my UK compatriots who are more-or-less in the same climate as I am and ditch the idea of cherry....but I also have a load of sweet chestnut :) ..... no I'm not going to even think along those lines........

Think I'll head back towards birch for the mo.... I don't really like sapele... let alone afford it.

I understand not liking the tiger striped sapele - go for the Elite; it looks about like the old Fairey decks when varnished and you will save a LOT of weight - a National 18 is a BIG boat on a dinghy trolley!

[obscured by clouds]

I understand not liking the tiger striped sapele - go for the Elite; it looks about like the old Fairey decks when varnished and you will save a LOT of weight - a National 18 is a BIG boat on a dinghy trolley!


Ah! but it wont be on a dinghy trolley! It will be on a big f***-*** trailer with a winch! and it won't be a 'normal' 18 any more. [look at the *taming a lugsail yard* thread for some photos]

I may just raid my card one more time and go for 4mm sapele elite [same as on my next project a Merlin Rocket [1099] ] if I speak nicely to them in Robbins I might get a discount for 5 sheets but I'm still looking at £300 + for them delivered.

our American cousins are soooo lucky..:mad:

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

I have had a look.

I see...

The seductiveness of the lugsail...its all in the curves.

One lugsail in the family is enough for me - its on the 9ft tender - and when the blighter wears out, if it ever does, it is going to be replaced by an honest gunter lug!

Nice project!

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

.....I'm still looking at £300 + for them delivered.

I know! :(

Two sheets of Elite Super Plus, a couple of square metres of agba veneer, a square metre of teak veneer to rescue a transom with, and its even more than that! Ouch!

[obscured by clouds]

I have had a look.

I see...

The seductiveness of the lugsail...its all in the curves.

One lugsail in the family is enough for me - its on the 9ft tender - and when the blighter wears out, if it ever does, it is going to be replaced by an honest gunter lug!

Nice project!

a gunter is my fall back alternative rig if i get cold feet over the lugsail

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Many years ago I experimented a bit with lugsail dinghies. This was before Roxanne and Romilly re-defined the genre. I concluded that:

1. The balanced lug is a gutless rig and a waste of time.

2. The standing lug is quite a bit better.

3. The dipping lug goeth verily like the clappers, and hath twice the power of the others, if you can but tack reliably with it. A prod with a oar can help...

[obscured by clouds]

The report on 'Surprise' [sailing out of Fowey] is quite illuminating.

On the wind she wont point as high as your regular bermudan, but by coming down a couple of degrees and footing it there is a gain of a knot or more, with loads of lift. The author reports that they have difficulty keeping the bows down when the wind picks up.

Off the wind the rig develops lots of power, so much so the problem is one of regulating it- hence the 3 big reef points I assume.

He went all carbon in the spars - which will be beyond my wallet, it will be a birdsmouth mast for me with a carbon yard.

Anyway I'm off to glue the gunnels in [job for today]

.

[Michael Beckman]

Many years ago I experimented a bit with lugsail dinghies. This was before Roxanne and Romilly re-defined the genre. I concluded that:

1. The balanced lug is a gutless rig and a waste of time.

2. The standing lug is quite a bit better.

3. The dipping lug goeth verily like the clappers, and hath twice the power of the others, if you can but tack reliably with it. A prod with a oar can help...

Dipping a lug properly is a bit of an art. You pull the tack at the correct angle and strength and you can pop it around without messing with the halyard at all. One of my favorite rigs..

[shearwater28greatdane]

regarding birch: i built a "temporary" lazarrette cover. i used a ply core, covered the top in strips of birch ply, and trimmed the edges in cherry. i finished it with Epiphanes varnish, my new favorite. result? the varnish came off the birch in sheets. (yes, i worked the finish up as instructed) three years in, the cherry still looks great, holds the varnish well, and has darkened just a little. i don't know if birch planks would hold varnish better, but the ply has weathered to a nice silver.