Maintainance schedule for an older wooden boat

[johnskennedy]

8 years to go to retirement - and I've been browsing for my retirement cruising sailboat.

It seems to me that one gets more boat for the money when buying a wooden boat, aside from the aesthetic superiority <grin>.

While I've been restoring an old wooden Fireball, and reading WoodenBoat for years, I don't have a clear idea of what sort of work schedule to expect if I buy, for example, a 25-year-old wooden hull, about 35 feet long, carvel-planked.

And since my spouse will want to visit the children (grand-children?) every now and then, what happens if we leave the boat-to-be tied up for a couple of months at a time? I'm guessing fibreglass can be neglected from time to time, but what about a good wooden hull?

I look forward to any ideas, lists or suggestions you can all offer.

John S. Kennedy

[Hughman]

First post? wow, a sleeper! :D

Your first year with a 35 foot used wooden boat will be like having another child.

Sometimes heaven, sometimes hell, but always worth it.

(If you're planning an extended trip during cruising season, leave it in storage)

[Stiletto]

Although my boat is glass over ply there are many wooden boats around here. I think leaving your boat for a couple of months is viable, but you will at the very least have a serious cleaning job when you return.

Maybe you could time your visiting for during your winter when the boat is probably out of the water anyway. Most wooden boats come out at least once a year when they receive antifouling and a repaint if required. (apart from this they stay in the water all year here).

The best maintained wooden boats I see are those that have owners that live nearby and enjoy pottering around for a few hours after work and have the money to do what is needed straight away. I dont see many liveaboards but most of them seem to occupy themselves by always doing some little job on the boat. Rigging and systems maintenance is the same whatever the hull is made from.

The better condition the boat is in when you begin ownership the easier it is to keep it that way in my opinion. Experience has taught me that it can be an uphill battle trying to bring a boat back up to good condition, but it is still achievable.

Good luck.

[Bob Cleek]

A good full boat cover will cut maintenance down to about a third of what it otherwise would be. Keep it ventilated and she should be fine. A fair amount of work, though. With a wooden boat that size, you either must be able to, and willing to, do the work yourself, or pump huge sums of money into it. It's a labor of love, really. If you are more interested in sailing than in puttering, fibreglass is what you want.

[paul oman]

I would think the key is an expert inspection before you buy an older wooden boat. If it proves to be in really good condition, you are probably OK, but hidden rot, bad 'screws' etc. can turn a dream into a constant work in progress (without end).

just my opinion....

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers

[bainbridgeisland]

The quick answer to your question is that a wooden boat in good repair will take about 10% longer to keep ship-shape than a fiberglass boat. But be careful, many fiberglass boats are not kept well. So they do not really represent a good example.

Here is what I would recommend for a basic maintenance schedule.

Every 8 to 16 years check the caulking. On a well maintained boat, it does not degrade much.

Every 5 years or after a hard grounding for boats of any materials: Withdraw and inspect a keel bolt.

Every 5-8 years wooden boats: Withdraw a few plank fasteners to check on condition.

Yearly for boats of every material: Inspect the steering gear for wear or corrosion. Disassemble, inspect and lubricate every rigging component including winches, turnbuckles blocks (if you can). Inspect each rigging terminal for rust and broken strands and replace or re-terminate as needed. For boats intended for offshore, I outright replace the standing rigging every 7-10 years. It is cheap insurance. Disassemble and inspect the manual bilge pump. Replace anything worn. Tune up the engine weather it needs it or not. Inspect all the thru hulls for unusual corrosion weeping or discolored wood. Control electrolysis if any is found. Inspect operate and lubricate all sea cocks. Inspect all accessible electrical connections for unusual corrosion. Replace as needed. Inspect the hoses or piping for wear, corrosion or other degradation. Disassemble and inspect the head. Replace anything worn. Inspect water tanks. Look inside too if you can. Pay special attention to the connections. Check every hose clamp in the boat for corrosion or rust and replace them if you find any. Inspect the lightning protection to be sure it is properly connected. Check the port lights, deck fittings and hatches for leaks. Re-bed when needed. Inspect the ground tackle for unusual rust stain (if nylon) or wear. Make sure the shackles are moused. Inspect the safety equipment. Replace any that are degraded. Empty every single item out of the boat and then scrub it from top to bottom with water with a little bleach mixed in. Clean out all the limber holes and collect the sand and dirt from the bilge and dispose of it.

Oh yes, a wooden boat should also have the paint inspected every year. Don't let it degrade. My preference when using alkyd paint is to lightly sand and recoat enamel every other year. Every 8-years or so, wood down and then seal, prime and enamel.

One other thing, while doing all the inspections a normal boat should get, here is what to look for on a wooden boat; check the frames for cracks or splits, check the floor timbers to see they are still firmly attached. Keep your eye out for dry rot but you will not likely have any if you follow the other advice here and keep the boat well ventilated with fresh air.

Every month for boats of any material: Inspect the running rigging and sails for abnormal wear. Repair or replace as needed. Check engine coolant in the heat exchanger. Check battery level. Check belt tension and wear on the engine and don't forget the oil at least this often. Check the running lights, radio antennas and other essential electrical equipment.

Special paint note: Always touch-up paint exposed bare wood as soon as possible. I don't like varnish, but if you have it keep it in perfect condition so the wood does not degrade.

As you can see, only a few things more are needed for a wooden boat compared to a fiberglass boat. By the way, fiberglass boat owners must inspect for osmotic blisters and water intrusion into core material. So you can see that the idea that a fiberglass boat is a LOT less maintenance is not true.

What is true is that if you neglect the fiberglass boat for a long time, it can usually be brought back for a reasonable cost. This is not true of a wooden boat. Thus, your best bet is to start with a wooden boat in fine condition and then keep it that way.

[Magwitch]

You don't need a schedule, just keep it clean and fix whatever needs doing as soon as you spot it. You'll find that keep you busy enough.
IanW

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Lot of good advice here.

You can certainly leave a wooden boat to fend for herself for several months; we said goodbye yesterday to two Alaskan friends of ours who have spent the past 14 years meandering slowly round the globe in a 31ft Warrington Smyth designed, Percy Mitchell built (i.e. very English!) wooden ketch built in 1953. Their modus operandi is to spend the northern summer practising law in Alaska and the southern summer sailing to wherever they feel like (currently South Africa).

This seems to me to be a very good plan...

[rbgarr]

If I wanted to have a liveaboard, wood sailboat with room for occasional visits from children or grandchildren, this design (or even this specific sailboat) would suit us very well. The aft great cabin would be very livable and the grandchildren would love those pilot berths and the aft berth with it own portholes. I'd find it a great place for naps while my wife whiled away her time on her pet projects at the table or cooked in the galley, two things she loves to do.

http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_full_detail.jsp?slim=quick&boat_id=1242144&units=Feet&currency=USD&access =Public&listing_id=18544&url=

[Stiletto]

Rgbarr, that is a quite a lot of nice boat for the money in my opinion.

[paul oman]

I've had a soft spot for Mason yachts for about 35 years - don't know if I have ever even seen on in the water. The 41 model was my dream boat - offset companionway so room for a owner's stateroom near the companionway....

oh, oh, oh,

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers

[rbgarr]

A 'great cabin' design makes sense to me for a liveaboard sailboat, and that Mason design seems about as small as you could go with it. It has a private forward cabin, a head/'wet area' accessible from the cockpit, a center cockpit that is not too large with a deep storage locker on one side and a protected walkway aft on the other. The main living area of the boat seems spacious and inviting, especially with the big seating area.

[chergui]

Get a good custom made canvas cover for it. I have one for my boat that covers the boat entirely to just over the caprails. Six different pieces all zipper up together. The boat simply isn't exposed to the rain or sun at all, except for the hull. It takes me an hour to put it on but it's worth it. It has scuppers to let in air. I keep the hatch open for air flow and nothing gets wet. It's basically like a little tent. The previous owner had it made for the boat and it is by far the best boat cover I've seen.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Lots of good advice will be offered here. When I buy something old, I usually go over it completely with a fine tooth comb. It familiarizes me with the boat/car/tool/house and lets me understand the construction techniques that have been used (or ignored). I keep a little journal of items that intrigue, confuse, or worry me. I start with the worry items. I work backwards to the intriguing ones, and usually learn alot along the way.

One thing to ponder about an older boat (as in all larger possessions) is the idea that other people have worked or repaired or improved this item. Each of those people will have a different approach to fixing and improving things. Nonetheless, there are lots of bad ways to fix things, and those are the things I look at. Were the right materials used? Were they installed properly? What kind of quality is the original construction? How do repairs compare? What major item is going to need replacing/repairing/refurbishing next? Let a surveyor look at the boat first, and if you decide to buy it, get to know it intimately. There are always risks on the water.... make sure you reduce the ones you can ;)

The Short answer:

Step One: Replace and repair everything on the boat as you can afford the time and money.

Step two: When everything is replaced and repaired, see step one again. :D

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Hey.... "Aesthetic Superiority" ... That's a keeper. I'm gonna use that on the tupperware crowd. Thanks John ;)

"Well, wooden boats have a little more regular maintenance, but it's worth it for the substantial Aesthetic Superiority. :D :D :D