canoe framed runabout plans

[SeaB]

Anyone know where to find plans for canoe framed, "cedar strip" [not strip plank] runabouts, 14-17'? It appears that the planking was thin 5/16-3/8" white cedar, about 2" wide of shiplap pattern, or alternate edge rabbet. Regular cedar canoe frames or closely spaced oak, ash frames.

[johngsandusky]

No source of plans that I know of. Several canoe and small boat companies built them in the past. They come up for sale occasionally.

[Thorne]

Our kind hosts at Wooden Boat have a number of books on restoring similar boats, and I bet they'll have info on any plans also.

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

If what you want is what I think it is I doubt there are plans for it because the technique, as described to me, is so daunting.
The original strip built canoes were all clinch nailed. Strips were ship-lapped and nailed to thin, closely spaced, steam-bent ribs. In order to do this a mold is required. A very sturdy mold reinforced with sheet metal because the construction involves thousands of hammer blows and the copper nails have to be partially clinched for the hull to hang together when it is taken from the mold. A typical canoe of 16 feet would have, approximately, 80 ribs. And that isn't all. The strips were not only ship-lapped but tapered on each end. How they figured this all out is beyond me.
Even if a runabout does not require tapered strips the over all technique seems rather involved for doing a one-off. If you figure out a way to do this you ought to document it for later publication.
One of the reasons modern stripper canoes/ kayaks (epoxy/glass over wood) have become so popular is the variety of what an individual can produce. To build any thing similar in cliched-nailed construction requires a mold for every different design and the time and money needed for an adequate mold make building one to produce a single boat rather uneconomical and a long term commitment.

[SeaB]

That is the problem with the method of course. However, it would appear that if a person was able to settle for a canvas covered boat, it should be no more difficult that a traditional cedar and canvas canoe.
I was hoping that someone who had considerable experience perhaps working at one of the manufacturers such as Peterborough might be able to give the benefit of their planking experience to someone who might want to learn.
I expect that once a boat or two of the same design had been planked the builders found ways to simplify the job.
It would be great to see a book along the lines of " Building the Herreshoff Dinghy" by Thomas or Stelmok and Thurlow's fine book.
Hopefully the method and its secrets will be preserved while there still may be an opportunity.

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

The reason the wood-canvas canoes live on while the old all-wood hulls haven't is the WCs don't require as many old-timey skills like hand-planing a tight rolling bevel that's 17 feet long.
There was a picture of a modern repo of a old nailed stripper on this site not long ago. It was supposed to have been done by a boatbuilding school in France.

[Ron Williamson]

Take a look here.
http://www.gieslerboats.ca/
R

[SeaB]

Thanks Ron thats an interesting site. The prices seem reasonable, if the boats look as good as the photos.

[Ron Williamson]

WB and Cottage Life have both done articles about Geisler.
A wee Google might be worth it.
R

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

I had a brain fart. There are plans available for power-driven strippers. And free plans at that. No ship-lapping. 1¼" x 7/16" bead and cove strips that are edge-nailed. The hull has to be built right side up because the ribbing is added after the hull is erected. No plans for a runabout. Just a common displacement dinghy.
http://www.svensons.com/boat/
It's the Dolly Varden utility.