PDA

View Full Version : My fiberglass boat repair thread!


Sailing reenactor
06-23-2009, 09:02 PM
Alright, first things first!
Since my last post on my thread in design/plans section I have been on the water twice.
The first was in the mid-spring when the wind was brisk but the water was still cold. Dad didn't want to go out because of water temp. so I was left by myself in a 15-20 mph steady wind. (stronger gusts) The boat FLEW along! However, it took me a minute to figure out how to handle the rudder and the sheet line at the same time. That minute was too long and I ended up laying the boat over in the water!:rolleyes: I have watched several you tube videos of people righting sail boats so within a few seconds I was back up and tearing through the water! John W. was right...I have got a liitle rocket of a boat. without the extra weight in the transom and with that good wind I was really moving. However, it took a second time in the water before I figured out that when the boat starts to tip I should LET GO of the sheet line; NOT hold it TIGHTER! LOL
Unfortuneately the wind was direct off shore so I was having much dificulty tacking back in. I let the sail down and tried to row back in, but the wind pushed me farther out and I made no headway! Then I decided to hoist sail and make another attempt, trying to make a small sand bar that stuck out from shore! (That way I wouldn't have to cut into the boat dock area!) Well, as I was getting ready to hoist the sail a large wave from a passing motor boat tossed the boat around causing me to drop the halyard and grasp the mast. The result was that the halyard blown by the wind fed back through the pulley at the top of the mast and dropped at my feet!:mad: Long story short dad got a motor boat to tow me back in.

Last week found me on the water again with a nice managable wind. The whole day was wonderful, except that once when we heeled over a bit, I lost a paddle. However, that time we managed to sail right up on shore, (against the wind) and when it came time to dock, I laid it right along side using mostly sail power and only a few paddle stokes. (The dock is behind a rock wall so I ran out of wind!) Overall it was a gentle learning experience.

Sooooo, now I am starting to fix the rotten mast step and doing some general overhall.

I cut the mast step out, which turned out to be some old rotten plywood. It was about like paper and just crumbled. I am going to replace it with a pressure treated (PT) 2x6.

The board that the mast fits through that is located above the step is also glassed ply. It will also be replaced with a PT 2x12. I do have a question about that though. When I cut the hole in the 2x12, should I line the hole with a steel ring to keep it from expandng when the mast rubs the inside of it? The other one seems a bit oval shaped, but it is only lined with fiberglass. Just wondering!

the next thing I looked into was the centerboard housing. It is wooden on top so that the pulleys can be screwed down, This last sailing trip the screws started coming out! So I started scraping glass off of the top and all of the wood on top of the housing is rotten as well. It was just some scrap 3/4 inch board that was used and apparently was not treated wood. So I scraped all of that off. What I want to do now is put a new PT 2x4 on top of the housing. This time using one whole piece and just cutting out the middle so that the centerboard fits through. What I am wondering is, the boards I took off were 3/4 inch tall. The 2x4 would be 1 3/4 inches tall. That would raise the centerboard up a whole inch. Is that going to effect the efficiancy of my centerboard?

Before I put a new board on top of the housing I want to reenforce it with a layer of glass. Then after I put the wood on I want to put another couple layers of glass on. The housing is about 1 inch thick but it is made out of some type of glass covered foam. What I want to know is, if I add a couple of layers of glass to the housing is it going to add too much weight to the boat. (extra glass, the wood on top of the housing and the mast step pieces all combined) I just don't know if that will affect the weight that much.

That's about all for now. I'll post pictures bellow of all that I am refering to.

My long term plan is to fix this boat up; make the refits mention, convert to all stainless hardware, and re-pain the boat with a high quality marine paint/enamel and varnish; then after enjoying the fruits of my labors or a while, sell the boat for at least what I have in it and use the money to build my first wooden boat! :eek:

Pictures gentlemen!

Thoughts??? Thanks!!!
Dave

Sailing reenactor
06-23-2009, 09:08 PM
Sailing as of last time! Sorry, no pics availiable of my capsize!

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02123.jpg

Again!

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02120.jpg

A lot of mast bend here! I want to change my stays to cable with turnbuckles to sturdy the mast up.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02134.jpg

I just LOVE this one! If only it was wooden! AHHHHH!

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02137.jpg

There is a good one of her resting!

MORE COMING!

Sailing reenactor
06-23-2009, 09:17 PM
Here is where the mast step goes. It's cleaned up and just needs some final prep work.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02157.jpg

Here is what is left of the wooden backing for the above. It used to be one piece! At one point the boat sank at her mooring so maybe that has something to do with all the wood rot. I do not know how long it was underwater.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02161.jpg

Centerboard housing! this is where I want to put the 2x4. I want to lay a 2x4 over the top and just cut out the middle. That way all of the wood on top of the housing will be one solid piece.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02159.jpg

Here is the hight of the original boards. (There were four) To the right I have taken off one and to the left the old one still remains. If I do a 2x4 then the finished hight will be an inch higher than the old board on the left. That will raise the centerboard up one inch. Will that affect the efficiancy of the centerboard?

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02158.jpg

Sailing reenactor
06-23-2009, 09:23 PM
All the wood is taken off here.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02163.jpg

Here is the original board that the mast fits through. You can see the hole is a little oval instead of round.
With my current rigging non of that hardware is needed on the new board.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02165.jpg

Here is the underside of the same board. This board will be replaced with a two inch thick board. (this board is only 1 inch)
Do I need to line the hole in the new board with a steel ring to keep it from wallowing out from mast movement?

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02166.jpg

This is one side of where the above board screws into. The new board will be screw down. However the glass is too thin to bolt the board to so I am going to back the glass with a small piece of wood. The top board will be screwed directly to the backing piece.

I hope all of that is clear. If not tell me and I'll reword and snap some more pictures!

Gold Rock
06-24-2009, 02:29 AM
Well, since you're adding wood to this thing and aiming toward acquiring gen-yew-wine wooden boat, you pass muster, ha ha. Pressure treated building lumber is a rotten (pun intended) choice for wood, if for no other reason than because as soon as you cut your hole or slot into it, you expose untreated wood. The box store stuff I'm supposing you're thinking of is of a quality, species, and cut that is not going to perform to your desires. Raising the centerboard in the case could do more than reduce the amount of board exposed under the water, it could prevent the board from retracting into the case satisfactorily. Whatever wood you choose to use, I'd advise against encapsulatoing it completely in glass. If you want to bed the mast step in resin, go ahead, but paint the rest. With a proper choice of wood, sleeving the step and partners shouldn't be necessary. With soft, punky building lumber, it might not hurt. Looks like a fast little boat. Is the mast supposed to be raked that far foward?

Sailing reenactor
06-24-2009, 07:18 AM
I'm not sure about the mast leaning that far forward. In my thread "winterhawk by ken swan" we determined that the boat and mast where not original partners, so I am having to play with the mast to get it to work with the boat. If I step it straight up and down, the boom is too low and will give anyone riding in it a shvae and a haircut at no charge when you tack. :D Seriously, it would clear the sides by about a foot. (Ask me how I know!) So this last trip I stepped it in leaning forward and it got the boom up far enough to be out of the way.

I had wondered if just plain pine board would be sufficient, especially to hold screws or sheet line pulleys. I do not have acces to ideal boat building lumber. What about buying store grade oak board? It would hold fasteners better and I could do the original hight of 3/4 inch board around the mast housing, while still having one solid piece. Even if I got quarter sawn lumber from one of the local saw mills, it wouldn't be weather resistant. So, how would I treat. Just the paint will be ok?

The mast step, of course, has to be glassed in, as well as the top of the housing. The mast partner (thankyou I had forgotten the nautical name for that board) doesn't have to be. The top of the housing has to be glassed because there is no other way of attachment. I can't screw it down because the housing is just a bunh of foam. (Look I know that pine board isn't the greatest at holding fasteners under strain, but I think foam would be even worse! LOL ;))

Thanks for the info, and I'll try to figure out if I have any other wood options.

Dave


Revision:

Oh DUH! I could get cedar from either the store or a saw mill. (If they would just saw me a couple pieces) I know that would be prettier and rot resistant, but what about fasteners. I know it's a softer wood.

Gold Rock
06-25-2009, 12:08 AM
Oak, cherry, walnut, any will do. For the centerboard trunk, hog out the sandwich foam to a depth of about one inch from the top and fill the void with thickened epoxy. This will allow you to pot fastenings into it and thus avoid the need to encapsulate. Painting wood with a reasonable primer/topcoat product will suffice just fine. Remember, for a rough and tumble, low buck skiff like yours, getting on the water and sailing is the name of the game. These observations are just for the benefit of understanding what's desireable in a best(/better) case scenerio.

Sailing reenactor
06-25-2009, 08:51 AM
Ok, we have a lot of rough cut true 1 inch oak boards from our barn that I am going to use. That is a good idea about filling the top of the housing with epoxy, and if I can find some good stuff I'll definately do that. I have to bale hay today and get ready for this weekend's craft fair so I won't be able to work on it much until Monday!

Dave

Sailing reenactor
06-30-2009, 08:38 PM
I have the mast partner cut out. I decided to use the regular PT 2x10 for that. It will be the least likely to get wet, and I will glass and paint it too. Also it will not hold any fasteners so the softness doesn't matter too much. If it crumbles in a few months then I can go with something else! :D

I went down to our barn and got a 1x__ oak board for the top of the center board housing and the base for the mast step. I will hopefully get on that tomorrow or the next day.
(I'm real busy with some special order iron work and a reenactment coming up this weekend. I just got to work on the partner a few minutes this evening.)

I am thinking about doing a double layer of oak where the pulleys will attach to the housing. That will give me 2 inches of very solid oak to screw into and will not affect the hight of the center board. Dad is in favor of glassing the wood onto the housing instead of screwing it into apoxy set inside the housing. Soooo, that's what I am going to do.

I have a question about painting the boat. I have some black spray on automotive paint that I painted my blacksmith trailer with. (The kind you mix with enamel and hardner and spray out of a air compressed paint gun! I.E. high quality VERY expensive paint.) Would that work for the outside of the boat? I would repaint the inside white, but would that work for the outside? I would also relieve the solid black with some whitered lines or something.

Just an idea!

Dave

Sailing reenactor
07-02-2009, 07:50 AM
so here are a couple fo shots of the pieces I have cut out.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02252.jpg

there is the oak board over the housing but not attached. As you can see I have to cut another board to go to the right of the board on top. it seems to fit good and is ready to be glassed in.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02248.jpg

There is the mast step (left) and the partner. (right)
The step is 1 inch oak board with a slot cut out to hold the bracket piece, also pictured.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02249.jpg

A close up! I did most of the notch with the skill saw but I did use a chisel for some of it too.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02250.jpg

There it is with the bracket in it. This piece will be glassed in the bottom of the boat. First I have to sand the bottom side of the board down to fit the hull snugly!

Dave

Sailing reenactor
07-06-2009, 08:14 PM
I glassed the top of the mast partner today. It looks pretty good! No bubbles; the only part that didn't ork out is where we had to bend it over the side of the board. When we do the bottom of the mast step the side will be recoated, so that is no bigy!

I have got the oak pieces sanded down. (this consists of the mast step, center board housing top/side pieces, and another board that runs from side to side on the boat laying over the housing. )
These pieces will be glassed to the housing and then painted! When I screw the pulleys into the wood on the housing, I will have about 1 1/2 inches of good oak to screw into.

That's about it for now. I am wanting to do just a little each day, but I need to get it done soon. I have a friend that I am going to try to meet (Lord willing) and take sailing. Sooooo, the boat needs to be done soon. Also am probably going to have to get some more glass cloth. Does the glass need to be painted as soon as it's done or can I still take the boat out even if it's not painted?

Thanks,
Dave

Sailing reenactor
07-11-2009, 07:21 AM
So all the glassing is done and over with! Wew!

I just have to reasemble everything! I'll have pictures tonight.

Dave

RFNK
07-11-2009, 07:07 PM
I'm having difficulty with the idea of that mast being raked so far forward. There are plenty of dinghies where you have to squeeze yourself down into the cockpit to get under the boom, especially if you're an adult! What sort of boat is it? Have you looked others up on the net to check the sail plan etc.? Rick

Sailing reenactor
07-11-2009, 10:25 PM
http://www.sailingtexas.com/sus1a.html

That is the kind of boat I have....course mine doesn't look that good:o....yet!:rolleyes:

We determined that the mast/rigging that I got with the boat is not the original mast. That's why when I hoist the sail the boom is so low! The biggest problem I have is that dad is the other crew member in the boat. He fusses about the boom being so low! (Uhhh he's a bass boat guy....150 horse+) That's why I set it so far forward!

Dave

Sailing reenactor
08-03-2009, 08:53 PM
Well gents it's been a while since I been on here! We have been really busy!
Here are some photos of the finished boat. I took it out sailing but we had no wind so I didn't get to see if the new pieces would hold. However, everything worked as far as rigging it up!

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02297.jpg
The mast step glassed in!

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02311.jpg
The partner glassed then screwed in!

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC02315.jpg

And here is the rest!

Dave

UCanoe_2
08-06-2009, 07:33 AM
Dave, it looks like your repairs are coming along nicely. Repairing a "fixer upper" at minimal expense with locally available materials is a great way to learn and prepare for your next boat. Of course you do realize that this is an addictive pasttime.

The forward rake of your mast is still worrisome. It looks like your sail's center of effort is way too far forward, which causes lee helm. Lee helm means the boat tends to turn downwind. It is a safety issue because it can cause you to loose steering control.

Your boat should have a little bit of weather helm. It should turn into the wind when you take your hand off the tiller. This helps you maintain control of the steering and "puts the brakes on" automatically. To make things more complicated, weather helm increases as the wind blows harder and causes the boat to heel.

Weather helm/lee helm is about the relationship between your sail and your centerboard. You can increase weather helm by raking the mast aft or maybe by putting the centerboard all the way down. Look at the US-1 in this photo http://columbia.craigslist.org/boa/1302544453.html Her mast is raked just slightly aft, not way forward like yours.

You will have to experiment with your boat to find the adjustments that work best. Be safe, have fun, and send me a PM if you want. There are very few fiberglass boat people on this forum.

Reese