Mid coast Maine.....canoe sailing

[David Geiss]

Hi All, I am heading to Bar Harbor in August for a week of guitar/mandolin intensive study at College of the Atlantic. Given the right conditions, I plan to venture out into Frenchman's Bay in my open sail canoe (PDF, hull floatation, proper clothing and some judgment of course).

Heading south on the way back, I am seeking to stop somewhere for a night or two, off the beaten path, for some more sailing. Parts of Muscongus Bay look very interesting. An acquaintance in Camden is steering me towards Stonington with the idea that I could head out to East Bay or in the other direction ...not sure if that is referred to as West Bay?

That suggestion was based upon my plan to bring a larger trimaran.
Given the sail canoe plan, wondering if anyone has some ideas as to where I might find a nice spot on the Mid Coast to gunkhole around a bit. Not sure what type of tidal range or tidal currents I am likely to encounter, but I don't need a huge expanse of water to enjoy.

Just some steady sea breezes, handy launch places (I can launch by hand with my small alum trailer), absence of crazy crowds and some serious natural beauty. Perhaps a place where I am not needing to stake out my place on the water as against commercial fisherman.....

Please don't take my asking as a substitute for seeking out additional local knowledge, just trying to get some ideas since a map or chart, while fascinating, does not always tell the whole story.

Thanks in advance.

David

[rbgarr]

Stonington and the islands of Merchant Row nearby is an excellent recommendation.

http://www.amazon.com/Kayaking-Maine-Coast-Paddlers-Cobscook/dp/0881504408

http://www.amazon.com/Sea-Kayaking-along-England-Coast/dp/1929173504

[huisjen]

You know about The Welfare Fleet cruise?

Dan

[Lance F. Gunderson]

Dix, High and Birch Islands in the Mussel Ridge Channel and the nearby Weskeag River are nice for a sailing canoe. Or you could try the St. George River to Thomaston, visiting Maplejuice Cove and Turkey Cove; then you could sail over to Hog Island in Muscongus Bay via Friendship, enjoying mostly protected waters. Rindlaub's Maine Coast Guide contains a good section on Muscongus Bay which you would do well to read and carry aboard. Hundred Harbored Maine has much to offer for the sailing canoeist.

[Bruce Hooke]

Others have done a good job of describing some good places to visit.

I have heard good things about Merrymeeting Bay, further south near Brunswick but can offer nothing specific.

Regarding tides, you can expect 8-10 tides around Bar Harbor, Stonington and Penobscot Bay. Further south the tidal range drops off a but but the currents can still run quite hard through the many narrow channels between islands. Make sure you have a tide chart with you and use your head when it comes to judging where to expect tidal currents and especially tidal chop.

Pretty much anywhere along the coast there is commercial lobstering going on so you'll just have to be ready to stay clear of the lobsterboats and lobster bouys. The one exception is places where you can sail at high tide in areas that are "dry" at low tide! There won't be any lobster traps here, but the lobster boats may still cut through these areas if they provide a useful shortcut.

There are all sorts of wonderful little coves and inlets to explore along the coast so grab a map and start planning and dreaming!

[Todd D]

Rather than sailing in Frenchman Bay, I would suggest taking the boat over to either Northeast Harbor or Southwest Harbor and launching there. Both towns have very good launch ramps with free parking. The launch ramp in Southwest Harbor charges $2 to launch. I don't know that charge in Northeast Harbor. Both harbors are on the great harbor of Mount Desert Island and also have easy access to Somes Sound. The great harbor is a fantastic sailing venue with a number of islands (Bear Island, Sutton Island, Greening Island, Little Cranberry Island and Great Cranberry Island). You can go ashore on Little Cranberry or Great Cranberry at their town docks (no charge to use the docks). The only significant currents are at the entrance to Somes Sound and in the Western Way. In both cases the currents max out at 2 knots. In addition there are very few hazards. The area is very popular with kayakers due to its protected nature.

You can get over to Northeast Harbor from College of the Atlantic in about 15-20 minutes. It will take you about 40 minutes to get over to Southwest Harbor. It will be well worth the short drive.

Your friend whi is suggesting sailing out of Stonington is on the mark. The Islands of Merchant Row are great sailing, but there is a very good chance of fog. Right now it is totally socked in in Bass Harbor (south end of Mount Desert Island).

[David Geiss]

Thanks gents for all of the great ideas and insights.
I have real fond memories of sailing the canoe last summer out of Jamestown, both Ft Wetherell and Ft Getty. With some good sense, she is quite seaworthy.
When the breeze looks to be fresh, I go with a small sprit rig with boom (a la Opti). Nice and easy to strike and stow in the canoe as necessary.

I love the looks I get from the skippers of the 50' mega cruisers when they see me out there.

Todd...any specific reason you recommend not sailing in Frenchman's Bay?

Huisjen....that Welfare cruise looks a bit ambitious for me and the canoe.
That will be for when I finally get my Navigator or Walkabout (Welsford) or Minahouet (Vivier). Anyway that's my short list at the moment.

I am liking the ideas of dinking around Stonington or Muscongus Bay.
Thanks again for all of your candor and incisive comments.

Best,
David

[Todd D]

A couple of reasons for not sailing Frenchman Bay.

1. Depending on where you put in, parking can be next to impossible in the Bar Harbor area in August. Also there will be tons of people in/around Bar Harbor. when there is a cruise ship in Bar Harbor is an absolute mad house and the traffic to and from the cruise ship(s) is constant.

2. Except for sailing around the porcupines (the islands near Bar Harbor) there isn't much to see in Frenchman Bay unless you cross the Bay to the North (5 mile sail) or east (3-4 mile sail). Both crossings can get rough if the wind kicks up a bit.

3. The yachting community in Bar Harbor is small (not many boats), so the boat viewing is pretty poor.

4. There is LOTS of commercial traffic in and out of Bar Harbor which means lots of BIG wakes and commercial boats to dodge.

The Great Harbor of MDI on the southeast side of the island is the yachting center of MDI. You will see LOTS of pretty boats there ranging from 100+ year old friendship sloops (there are normally 3 or more Friendships out sailing at any given time), dozens of Hinckley and Morris yachts, and many more interesting boats.

Access to the great harbor from Southwest or Northeast is easy and parking is available and free.

Somes Sound is almost always calm with decent wind and it is spectacular.

The Great Harbor area is MUCH less crowded than the Bar Harbor area. Northeast Harbor is busier than Southwest Harbor.

[rbgarr]

Todd,

Is there a launch ramp at the Somesville end of the sound? Just wondering.

[David Geiss]

Thanks Todd for your insights.....
What type of likely current running through Desert Narrows...see that there is a hand launch at Hadley Point...could be worth a look.

I will be at COA amd will be able to use their facilities so parking not an issue.
Sailing over to Schoodic I agree looks like a dicey matter in the canoe unless I get a really special afternoon of weather.

As far as sailing north from COA, I'm thinking that driving to say Crabtree Neck might be a better proposition.

Thanks again.

David

Best,
David

[Bruce Hooke]

One other point to keep in mind...even in August the ocean water in Maine is pretty damn cold. Please make sure you have a bombproof self-rescue and suitable clothing to wear before you head out onto any Maine coast waters in a small, open boat. Maine is a very different place from Narragansett Bay when it comes to ocean water temperatures. The Gulf of Maine gets the final tongue of the Labrador Current, coming down from the arctic, whereas the mouth of Narragansett Bay, while not exactly toasty, is warmed by spinoffs from the Gulf Stream.

[David Geiss]

Yes, I plan to play it safe and stick around.
Never hurts to keep reminding oneself though........

Are there any other wee boat sailors interested in heading out in and around BH week of 8.10.09?
Dave

[Todd D]

There are no public launch ramps on Somes Sound. However, you might be able to launch at one of the boat yards on the east side of the sound.

The current at the entrance to Somes Sound can get up to about two knots, but most of the time is considerablt less. In a canoe you can get in close to shore and catch a counter current.

The current at Mount Desert Narrows can get pretty strong. A lot of that area dries out completely at low and there are lots of boulders on the bottom in the mud.

[David Geiss]

Sounds as if Somes Sound can't be beat!
Currents like that not a big problem!!!!
Dave

[Woxbox]

Lance lists some great spots to sail. I've been out in small boats in that area too. Excellent. But do have a tide table along, the currents are huge at times. Even well up the rivers, the water can move as fast as you can paddle. If you're not accustomed to big tidal shifts, it's something to get used to.

[David Geiss]

Thanks Lance and Woxbox...I have looked more carefully now and see those islands you mention in the Muscle Ridge Channel...what threw me for a moment was another High Island further south off of Long Cove.

St George River looks intriguing as well.....any decent hand lauch sites in or about Cushing, Pleasant Point and/or the SE side of the River in that vicinity?

Finally, your mention of Hog Island...that looks about perfect, open enough to make it interesting but protected a bit perhaps from the S-Westerlies.

What about Round Pound, do you have any thought re sailing out of there?

Appreciate everyone's ideas and reminders on tides and cold water.
Best,
David

[Lance F. Gunderson]

Thanks Lance and Woxbox...I have looked more carefully now and see those islands you mention in the Muscle Ridge Channel...what threw me for a moment was another High Island further south off of Long Cove.

St George River looks intriguing as well.....any decent hand lauch sites in or about Cushing, Pleasant Point and/or the SE side of the River in that vicinity?

Finally, your mention of Hog Island...that looks about perfect, open enough to make it interesting but protected a bit perhaps from the S-Westerlies.

What about Round Pound, do you have any thought re sailing out of there?

Appreciate everyone's ideas and reminders on tides and cold water.
Best,
David

Round Pond is one of my favorites; I'm planning on going there next week. Hope I will still be able to anchor there. I don't know about launch ramps because I have always sailed in aboard cruising boats out of Kittery Point. I seem to recall there is a launch ramp in Port Clyde, and a primitive one in Tennants Harbor. You can launch at the Spruce Head causway at high tide. Round Pond has a ramp too. The DeLorme Atlas shows launch ramps, but some have reported inaccuracies. With a canoe, I would guess your biggest problem will not be launching...but parking. Be sure to ask the locals where to park.
Hog Island is great; unspoiled, preserved, marked trails, and a well protected anchorage. The mooring fee used to include a hot shower, but I'm told the facility is closed this year; but you can still anchor and go ashore there. Read about it in the Cruising Guide.
The sheltered anchorage between Birch and High Islands off the Mussel Ridge is a favorite; notice how shoal it is. There is a big rock right in the middle of that anchorage which is not shown on the chart, but with a canoe it needn't concern you. You can go ashore on High I.; there is a pretty quarry there. I have heard you can land on Dix too but I've never done it. Birch is popular with the locals but they usually depart at sunset. There are many other beautiful islands in the Mussel Ridge, but I have not yet explored them. Landing may be prohibited on some. Maine Island Trail should be just the thing for you; their guide is intended for small boaters...canoes, kayaks, ect.

[David Geiss]

Lance, thanks much! Great info.
I think you have pointed me to the ideal stretch of coast!

I see, in my atlas, Dix and High but not able to see Birch...is that perhaps the small un-labeled smaller island between Dix and High?

Turns out that one of the mandolin players taking part in the COA symposium lives in Seal Harbor....have to make sure that it's the same Seal Harbor in the Muscongus region.

So, again many thanks....will you be up there sailing in Mid Aug?

Best,
David

[Lance F. Gunderson]

I hope to spend most of August cruising that area in my Bolger Black Skimmer leeboard sharpie cat yawl Egret; she's all white with varnished masts. I'll be with the Wellfare Fleet too. Give a shout if you see us.
I suspect the Seal Harbor he lives in is the Mt. Desert one, which is also very nice.

Birch is the little bare island south of High I. No one seems to know how it got it's name. Good mussels to be had there, but check for current red tide reports.

[Woxbox]

You do want to get the Maine Island Trail info. There are islands with camp spots off the west side of the Mussel Ridge Channel that see very little traffic. Norton and Elwell for two. From there you can hop over to Walker Bay and Tennants Harbor. I used the ramp there many years ago without a problem. I dont know its current condition. As Lance says, finding a place to leave the car might be the bigger issue.

[David Geiss]

...especially with tags from the Garden State......

Thxs WoxBox.....just about to join MITA.

Lance, that sounds like a sharp vessel.
I'll be dinking around beginning Sat 8.15 or Sun 8.16.09, around Mussel Ridge...green canoe, ACA lateen rig or, if it's real fresh an Opti sprit.
Will welfare fleet sailors be with VHF radios?

I have a reason to finish up a set of spruce oars I have been whittling ever so slowly.....I'll likely need the propulsion.

Dave

[Lance F. Gunderson]

The Wellfare Fleet will be south of you, departing McFarland Cove in South Bristol around 8/16. I tend to leave the radio off and use it only for emergencies.

[David Geiss]

Like I said earlier, that type of cruise will be for my next vessel, more substantial than my seaworthy canoe......good cruising to you and the group!

[rbgarr]

Birch is the little bare island south of High I. No one seems to know how it got it's name. Good mussels to be had there, but check for current red tide reports.

Don't eat any local shellfish or the tomalley (green stuff) in lobsters. A local friend came down with some numbness from the toxicity the other day.

[David Geiss]

I take it that the warning applies to the flesh of the lobster also?
What a sad state of affairs.......

[rbgarr]

No, the flesh is okay to eat.

[skuthorp]

As a canoe sailer myself (Oughtred 15'7" Macgreggor) this sounds like great cruising. Have fun and let us know how it was please

[Geoff C]

The Wellfare Fleet will be south of you, departing McFarland Cove in South Bristol around 8/16. I tend to leave the radio off and use it only for emergencies.

I'm renting a cottage in McFarland's Cove the first two weeks in August. What is the Wellfare Fleet, exactly?

I'm going to bring my Yakaboo 2 with me to do some more canoe sailing on John's Bay, was there last week as well. Always glad to do some cruising with a fellow enthusiast.

In August, the water near the surface is just about warm enough for swimming. ;)

[David Geiss]

Hi Geoff, trying to nail down a rental in Bremen....in the office at the moment so have to get home and see where McFarland's Cove is...maybe we can meet up.
Likely it will be 8.15 through 8.18 for me. Would be fun...who knows a canoe sail race or cruise might break out......

David

edit: OK, I see McFarland's cove in South Bristol....sailing out in John's Bay looks nice! Hopefully you will still be up there the weekend of the 15th......I'll have my rig on a trailer and could ride down from Bremen easily.......

[Geoff C]

David-

There is a public launch ramp on the east side of John's Bay in Pemaquid Harbor, on Colonial Pemaquid Dr. near the fort. There is also a nice beach in McFarland's Cove with road access.

If you are doing Penobscot Bay, there is a public ramp in Lincolnville off US 1, between the seafood restaurant and the ferry dock. Camden and Rockport are very close by.

Geoff

[David Geiss]

The grown up music camp was such that time for sailing was not happening. But, arrived here in Bremen late Fri for what looks like a great stretch. Yesterday, I embarked from Moxie Cove (south side of Round Pond). Ramp a little basic, but no worries with a canoe, and nice shady spots to rig and futz around in preparation.

Sailed Muscomgus Sound between the peninsula and Louds Is.
Tide runs in not so fiercely and able to make ground easily over incoming afternoon flood.

There's an Audubon reserve at the end of Keene Neck Rd.....looks like nice access to Hog Is and just another way into the Sound from a bit further north along the peninsula.

Will check out St John's Bay and, time permitting, Muscle Ridge.
Some really nice vessels moored in Round Pound, some very expensive, some just plain nice.

Images when I get back to the world of broadband.
Thanks again all for great insights re this wonderfully overlooked part of the mid coast.

Best,
David