Want sawn frame lapstake (solid) planked plans...

[Henry Webber]

For my first try at boatbuilding, I'd like to use sawn frames - seems to me it'd be faster and easier than building molds, attaching ribbands, then bending frames. Also, I like lapstrake, but I'd rather go traditional solid planks vs plywood. Size: about 12 ft.; power: sail. I haven't been able to find a plan on the internet. Anyone have suggestions? Other posts on this forum lead me to believe John Gardener's books might have one - can someone confirm, and which book? Thanks.

[Thad]

I like this construction method myself for the same reasons. On page 28 of WB volume 49 is Arne Emil Christensen's article on building a Norwegian Pram. You will note that as with traditional clinker building the frames are fit after the hull is built. Nothing wrong with that. For building to a design like a peapod or a No Man's Land or a dinghy you would want to loft for the backbone and set "shadow molds" (1, 2, or 3 inside hull shapes) on the backbone to guide in the planking process. I am working on a small book/leaflet on building Norwegian prams but I'm not quite done. The book Building the Herreshoff Dinghy is an excellent guide to the lapstrake planking process. The more we know the better off we are.

[Kermit]

Have a look at Richard Kolin's book on building "Heidi," a flat-bottomed lapstrake skiff. Great for the serious beginner. It's properly and classically constructed, right down to cross-planked bottom, clench nailed topsides, and even includes details on sailing rig and centerboard, etc. The transom angle is not suitable for OB use though. There's an option for a plywood bottom if it's going to live out of the water. Excellent explanations and illustrations. The only way to get the plans and get it done is to buy his book: Traditional Boatbuilding Made Easy, ISBN 0-937822-40-X I think WoodenBoat sells it. Happy building!

[This message has been edited by Kermit (edited 09-09-2000).]

[Keith Wilson]

Yes, John Gardner, definitely. "The Dory Book" has lots of designs, sail and oar, most a little bigger than 12', just about all sawn-frame, since that's the traditional way to build dories and all their derivatives. "Building Classic Small Craft" (two volumes originally, later reissues as one, I think) has several more.

If you're going to build a dory, I might suggest plywood for the bottom if you aren't going to keep it wet most of the time. Traditionally, dory bottoms use three long planks with caulked seams (carvel, sort of), and don't stand weting/drying cycles well, as I know from long and frustrating experience. Likewise for Heidi's cross-planked bottom. The lapstrake sides are no problem.

[landlocked sailor]

When I built my "Heidi" I double cross planked the bottom with 2 layers of 3/8" cedar. I spread epoxy between the layers and used ring nails to hold them together. This is a variation on Harry Brian's method used on "Daisy"; he ran the first layer athwarships and the second layer fore and aft. Both work well. I've had minimal leakage in my boat, she was in the water for a week in RI in July and did not leak a drop. Rick

[Henry Webber]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will trailer the boat, but I'd rather not use plywood. I'm looking for a design with a lapstraked v-bottom.

[DougWilde]

Buy a copy of the Atkin Design Catalog. The addresss is in the back of Woodn'tFloat.

I just counted 13 sailboat designs under 13' and another 10 rowboats.

Just don't let your eyes wander over any of the other designs or you'll have enough projects for a lifetime.

Prices for a full set of plans is $30-$45. What a deal.

Doug